Dracula on gear

[kevbone]

I think this has been posted before.....it is worth watching again. The guide book calls this climb 5.12a. A couple of climbs to the right is a climb called Bloodline which the guide calls 5.12b. They should be reversed IMO. I have climbed bloodline several times without falling, but have never been able to even come close to getting Dracula, even on top rope.

 

This is a proud send.

 

[video:youtube]

[TobyB]

You simply climb better in a Stoneworks t-shirt...

[ivan]

the unnamed aid route! love aiding the exit w/ mandatory sideways hook move - looks so nice n' casual for a fucking rock-baboon like this'un!

[ols]

Kev,

Is it when you are lining up and entering the pod that you burn out? Are you pulling sideways on the arete hard enough? Catching the left arete is a tight sequence, and sticking with it as you pull into the pod is a rare treat. Have you got that entire sequence wired? The ending moves (up to and through the pod) are mostly about maintaining enough force once you know the sequence. The right foot placement is crucial (depending on your body build) in order to enter the pod.

 

Do you use the mid-way rest stance on the route to cool down a bit before launching into the remainder?

 

[luvshaker]

Man, that was super fun to watch! Good tunes too.

[kevbone]

Kev,

Is it when you are lining up and entering the pod that you burn out? Are you pulling sideways on the arete hard enough? Catching the left arete is a tight sequence, and sticking with it as you pull into the pod is a rare treat. Have you got that entire sequence wired? The ending moves (up to and through the pod) are mostly about maintaining enough force once you know the sequence. The right foot placement is crucial (depending on your body build) in order to enter the pod.

 

Do you use the mid-way rest stance on the route to cool down a bit before launching into the remainder?

 

No no and no. I have found the entire climb to be hard. The first part over the arching rail is kind of burly and committing. Then all the moves up to where you reach out and grab the side pull cracks are not straight forward. Then of course comes the crux. Very hard climb.

[cja]

Bloodline seems way harder to me...maybe I should try it again. Was gonna hit Beacon Wednesday, but maybe we'll stay in Oregon and do that. What's up with this $10 day use fee that just popped up? Did you Washingtonians know this was coming Tim?

[JosephH]

Washington Discover Pass thread

[d_sowerby]

I'm curious that you find Bloodline easier Kevin. If you can do Bloodline then Dracula should be ok. On BL did you go over the roof at the top or did you keep going left around the corner then up to the ledge? The bolts on BL are better spaced than on Dracula I think - your previous statement about badly bolted climbs at Broughton (other thread), did that just mean that they were too far apart? ----------------------dave

[kevbone]

Bloodline has actual rests IMO. There are two almost no hands rests on it. Where Dracula is very sustained. And I have done both ways Dave. The roof is a harder finish then going left but not by much IMO. Bloodline is my kind of climbing where Dracula is not. Both are great climbs....one is easier for me.

[JosephH]

...did that just mean that they were too far apart? ----------------------dave

Don't be mean...

[JosephH]

...

[kevbone]

your previous statement about badly bolted climbs at Broughton (other thread), did that just mean that they were too far apart?

 

You would have to find the other thread for me to remember which climb I was referring too.

[kevbone]

...

 

 

 

why the edit?

[d_sowerby]

you stated that "Broughton climbs were badly bolted" and gave Critical Mass as the only example. The thread about Opus. Hey did those guys ever work out the beta??

Back to Dracula - it is more sustained but with easier moves, and hey some climbs do/don't suit some people, you're right.

But the bolt are further apart than Ozone :-) (I am a meanie).

----------------dave

[d_sowerby]

dammit - killed another thread!!

[kevbone]

you stated that "Broughton climbs were badly bolted" and gave Critical Mass as the only example.

----------------dave

 

Yes....I think that Critical Mass is lacking a final bolt. Or, that is how I would have bolted it. Does that make me a pussy for thinking this? I know...I know...."if you cant raise your level of climbing to the level of the climb then do climb it". What a bunch of bull. IMO.

[d_sowerby]

I agree Critical Mass is run-out at the top. But you said "Broughton" and then gave one one climb name and still haven't come up with another name :-) So if I think a climb at Ozone is badly bolted the whole crag is?

I think you mean "don't climb it" in your last sentence?

So every climb must be protected to suit your standards? Rather than you stepping up to the challenge?

quote 'what a bunch of bull IMO'

[JosephH]

Balls don't make the climber, batteries do.

[kevbone]

I agree Critical Mass is run-out at the top. But you said "Broughton" and then gave one one climb name and still haven't come up with another name :-)

 

I would have bolted Dracula different. I would have bolted Superstition different.

 

So if I think a climb at Ozone is badly bolted the whole crag is?

 

You are free to think what ever you want. That is the beauty of the web.....

[d_sowerby]

yes but we're not talking about "the beauty of the web" we're talking about protection on climbs not being up to your standards and how that's "Bull IMO" if they're at all dangerous by you're standards. So instead of rising to the challenge of the climb, they should be rebolted to fit your standard of safety?

[kevbone]

yes but we're not talking about "the beauty of the web" we're talking about protection on climbs not being up to your standards and how that's "Bull IMO" if they're at all dangerous by you're standards. So instead of rising to the challenge of the climb, they should be rebolted to fit your standard of safety?

 

Who is talking about rebolting climbs? I am not. To mention that I personally and not happy about another persons bolting job does not imply that I am going to rebolt something.....I am sure people did not like the climbs I put up. That is there prerogative. It is just talk.

 

Better watch is Dave....if you keep this up you will be sucked into cc.com and will have 1000 posts before you know it. LOL, good times for sure.

[d_sowerby]

No you didn't say anything about re-bolting climbs, and I didn't mean to infer you did. What I'm trying to get at is your opinion that climbs you consider "unsafe" are "Bull". Surely climbing is all about rising to the challenge? Of difficulty or danger, whatever. If you don't want to meet that challenge that's fine, walk on by. That's what you haven't replied to.

 

[kevbone]

No you didn't say anything about re-bolting climbs, and I didn't mean to infer you did. What I'm trying to get at is your opinion that climbs you consider "unsafe" are "Bull". Surely climbing is all about rising to the challenge? Of difficulty or danger, whatever. If you don't want to meet that challenge that's fine, walk on by. That's what you haven't replied to.

 

Huh?

 

Walk on by?

 

I am allowed to not be happy with ones bolting job. You have a climb at Madrone way down to the left (dont know the name). It is 11.b. I would have bolted it different. Very different. It is a truly great climb except for the bolting job. IMO. I am not throwing you under the bus but I am allowed my own opinion just like you. I believe the ground fall potential on this climb is real. I caught my buddy Kevin Rauch on this as he fell off the third bolt clipping hold before clipping. His toes touched the ground and I was all over his fall. If another belayer would not have been paying attention or given just 2 or 3 more inches of slack he would have been injured. And the injury would not have been caused by lead climber or belayer but by the person who bolted it. so....I would have lowered the second bolt and added a third so as to protect the ground fall potential getting the the (current) third.

 

But to get back to your statement. I have risen to the level of this climb and got the send. Please dont get me wrong.....thanks for taking the time to put this climb up. Very fun moves.

 

Now...just because I would do it different does not mean that I will approach you (the FA) and ask to change it. We all know you would say no. I am fine with that.

 

Take care!

[d_sowerby]

At Madrone? that would be Comfortizer. Glad you liked it, one of my best I think. Did Kevin fall clipping the bolt or from the thin edge? I don't know how you would do another bolt in between 2 and 3. Or how you would clip it. #2 is at you foot as you clip #3

So I would have been the cause of any injury? Not the person climbing at their own risk? Seems odd. I've never heard of anyone who put up a climb being blamed for an injury on the climb. The bolts are a bit sportier than Wild Things for sure but you can see from the ground how far apart they are. You have to take responsibility for your own actions and not look around to see who you can blame.

Glad you did lead Comfortizer, you rose to the challenge.

Of course you are allowed to dislike a bolting job on a climb, mine or anyones.

It seems like times change, what was once ok is now "dangerous". I guess we expected climbers to have some common sense and to at least check a climb from the ground and assess the risks and not assume that "hey, it must be ok"