Skaha: What gives?

[max]

1. I've been to Skaha 2-3 times, 10+ years ago. I seem to remember it being a blast.

 

2. I puled out the book a few days ago and started looking through it... looks awesome. The wife's super excited about going.

 

3. I never hear anything about it here. Why not? Are people going there? Is it closed up?

 

 

[Jens]

Never really liked Skaha.....

[mountainmatt]

Love Skaha as long as you are down for sport climbing (not much trad).

 

The only real issue there is the camping situation: either set up / take down every day camping up logging roads, or pay for over priced campgrounds in town.

 

On the positive side, the sport climbing is really fun (albeit overbolted), approaches are short, and there is an awesome bakery for a nice morning cinnamon roll!

 

Have a great time, I am planning on making a couple of trips this year as well.

 

.

[Frankazoid]

Im psyched to get to Skaha after watching this vid.

 

 

Crappy video, but a good view of some of the steeps!

[obwan]

I did a few trips to Skaha in the 90's, and then it ran into access road and parking problems - I hear that's been taken care of, so may also venture back up there. It was sorta the Smith Rock of Canada (ie: mostly sport climbing) - the free camp was ok, but a nuisance breaking camp every day. So pay for the commercial sites in town and enjoy the showers, we also cleaned up at the public pool in town.

There are some trad and mixed routes that are well done and the ratings seem pretty accurate. It has a good hiking trail system to all of the crags.

[northvanclimber]

Not closed up by any means! New parking lot (note that the directions are different now), you don't have to pay anymore, and for better or worse, the new approach is shorter and has almost no elevation gain! get 'er done!

 

[genepires]

No stair case of doom?

[mountainmatt]

No stair case of doom?

 

I know we will all miss it, but its gone now

[max]

New parking lot (note that the directions are different now),

 

Great beta. Is the map below accurate?

 

(from the the Penticton Chamber of Commerce site)

[cman]

I went to Skaha many years ago and had a fun time, barely scratched the surface of all the climbing there. I do remember it was a far drive but only a little bit more than smith, from seattle. It is probably worth another trip. Not really sure why it is not a more popular area, as i remember is was mainly moderate sport climbing.

[genepires]

Skaha is my favorite "sport climbing" destination. Though I haven't been there in a while since moving away from b'ham. In a battle between skaha and smith, I choose skaha even if it involved another 5 hr drive over smith. Atmosphere, dog friendly and good canadian people make this place superior to smith. IMO

[max]

Not really sure why it is not a more popular area, as i remember is was mainly moderate sport climbing.

 

This was my thought...

[G-spotter]

Not really sure why it is not a more popular area, .

 

ummm

 

the last two times i was at skaha, so was every other climber in the fucking universe. if looking for lack of crowds, try elsewhere

[Tod]

For the last 5+ years I have tried to go up there once or twice a year; rarely do I find it crowded unless you go on a Canadian holiday (or a holiday shared by Canada and the US). It is a super friendly place; dogs are welcome, climbers from all over travel to climb there and are typically very friendly, the ratio of women to men are astounding (one trip I counted 4+ women to every guy, which was welcomed by both genders in our group). =)

 

The routes have MUCH MORE variety than Smith. You can find climbs of all abilities (yes beginner and expert alike) that are FUN and if you are looking for some routes that are long and/or sporty/overhung it's hard to beat.

 

The place has been well developed in the last few years; the access is great, VERY GOOD parking (new access and parking lot in the last 3 years with the help of MEC, local climbers and city), trails are fairly well marked and lead to many different canyons and bluffs that are spread out over a fairly large provincial park, composting toilets in key places, well bolted routes on fun and quality rock. There is some trad (some high quality trad too), but it is definitely mostly sport.

 

The guidebook is well written and published in the by the same publisher that does the Squamish guidebook (in similar quality/style). It may be out print though and hard to find:

http://www.canrockbooks.com/si/008027.html

 

The camping is a bit problematic since it is a popular tourist town, so most camping is expensive, or up back roads and temporary.

 

There is a a good website that promotes the climbing and has PDF's of new routes (and current ones too):

http://www.skaha.org

 

Personally I like it over Smith any day; it is much more easy going, it's a more pleasant environment/setting overlooking Lake Skaha and the routes are begging to be climbed (they are not sandbagged).

[Tod]

Yes the map is accurate.

New parking lot (note that the directions are different now),

 

Great beta. Is the map below accurate?

 

(from the the Penticton Chamber of Commerce site)

[northvanclimber]

the last two times i was at skaha, so was every other climber in the fucking universe. if looking for lack of crowds, try elsewhere

 

i've stopped going on the long weekends. just too busy. any other time in spring or fall is great though.

 

but, warning to our american drivers, gas is around 1.40/litre around here. I think that works out to over 5/gallon... and that's in canadian dollars. so, i think it works out to about 12 bucks american

[genepires]

nice try. exchange rates are 1.02 CN to 1US. so your $5/gal works out to $5.13/gal.

[obwan]

Tod - Thanks for the current input, sounds very well developed now. The ratio of male/female should bring more Yanks up that way. I do remember it being more friendly than Smith in both more moderate climbs and attitudes. And as far as gas and trip time, it's about the same to Penticton (5-6hours).