advice for a novice

[gaper]

hey,

I picked up climbing this summer while white water guiding in Colorado. I have done only bouldering, top roping, gym climbing, and non-technical mountaineering. I greatly enjoy be in the outdoors, and have loved every short minute of my climbing experience. Can anyone recommend some fairly easy top roping and/or bouldering areas with in 50 or so miles of Portland? Possibly a good book for local routes. Thanks.

 

[Erwin]

Hi Gaper.

I don't know of any climbing spots, but I am looking for climbing partners. I'm an east coaster who has been climbing (rock and ice) for two years. I am moving to Portland in about a week and am immediately looking for climbing parnters. I spoke with someone at the Portland rock gym who spoke of several crags within a half hour of Portland and of course Smith Rocks, which I am itching to climb at. If you need a partner to climb with, email me at jason.erwin@ef.com and we'll find the crags.

[erik]

beacon rock east of portland on the washington side of the river is great. awsome slpitter basalt. though there is a bird closure. i have to admit that the only person i have ever seen messing with birds and getting them pissed off was a biologist. though apperently us as climbers have some sort of death wish for these birds and our entire point of climbing is to disturb their nesting. if you ask me i attempt to avoid all large animals with bigs claws who want to be left alone.

 

[mikeadam]

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[This message has been edited by mikeadam (edited 05-15-2001).]

[LhotseDreems]

Gaper,

I'd check out Broughtons Bluff. Easy approach, top roping on a 5.6 and two 5.8's. Mixed pro for everything else basically. Nice climbs in the moderate 9 and 10 range. Solid rock. Make sure you look at the time it closes on the gate... they'll lock you in (it only takes once to learn that one)!

For Broughtons there's a route book that's out of print, but you can take a gander at the one remaining copy left for the public at some climbing shop in SE Portland (near to PRG). I can't recall the name of the shop, but ask one of the guys at Portland Rock Gym, they can tell ya where it is.

Hey, i'm gonna have to say to shy away from Rocky Butte, i wasn't impressed... really trashed. There is a hard bouldering area, but crash pads won't help ya much, it's really bad landings. So be a solid V9 climber to attempt most of 'em, if i recall the easiest of them was a V3 and it went up to a V9... i maybe off, it may have been harder.

I haven't tried Madrone... but i hear it's killer. You can pay your homage fee at PRG and sign your life away, you need to provide your own blood.

And Smith?... you must visit the Sport Mecca, it's great! Beware of the babys in the playpens, tho. And make sure you have plenty of gas if you are driving at night, not one damned station was open between Redmond and Salem!! Barely pulling in on fumes was scarier than the view out of Panic Point!

[DPS]

I have a copy of Tim Olson's guide book and would gladly part with it for the cost of shipping.

[rbw1966]

Beacon is closed for raptor nesting and I believe will be open around mid-June.

Broughton's is a great area to climb at but weekends can be busy. Mazamas teach classes there and monopolize the easy routes sometimes so be warned. Solid rock and good climbing.

Ditto the warning about Rocky Butte. There are a few nice routes out there but between the noise of the freeway and falling beer bottles I'd rather go to the gym.

Madrone is off limits to climbers and has been for a couple years but the Access Fund is working to change this.

Carver--which is near Madrone--is open but on private property. The owner allows access if you sign a waiver of liability available at PRG (or me) and submit $5 for admin costs. Remember that since its on private property he doesn't have to allow access and climbing out there without signing a waiver can screw it up for everyone so take the time and sign up. You only have to do it once.

There are a couple other areas within a reasonable driving distance from Portland:

Horsethief Butte

Bulo Point

Tieton

Also, the local guide book, Protland Rock Climbs by Tim Olson, is out of print but you might be able to find a used copy at Powells or some other book store. I saw a notice that Olson is working on an update but probably won't be ready anytime soon.

If you have any questions drop me a line.

[This message has been edited by Rob (edited 01-03-2001).]

[LhotseDreems]

Hey Rob,

My mistake, the advice i gave on Madrone was meant for Carver. Like i said, i've not been out there but i hear it has some good climbing. Thanks for the clarification. ... hey, i don't live there (Portland) anymore how am i supposed to remember all these little details?

[rbw1966]

No sweat--I hope you didn't read that as a personal attack. I'd just hate to see Carver shut down because some idiot refused to sign the waiver and pay his $5.

[glm]

Although both are more than 50 miles from Portland, I can attest to the quality of both Tieton and Smith, and both are not *that* far away that you couldn't get there for a long day trip. There is also a route or two at Rooster Rock, just east of Troutdale, about 20 miles +- from Portland....

[Greta]

Hmmm. Only about 5 years late with that beta. Better late than never, I suppose