best multitool for an alpine rack

[sisu]

I've been limping along with my old heavy multitool. What is everyone out there taking on alpine climbs?

[OlympicMtnBoy]

When actually climbing I just have a tiny Spyderco Ladybug clipped to a biner. I find I rarely need a multi-tool on routes. The tiny knife works for cutting tat and lunch purposes.

 

Otherwise I still use my Leatherman (CS4? Blue one). It's heavy buy has everything I want (pliers, scissors, saw, screwdrivers, wine opener, bottle opener). I normally only use it for non-ultralight backpacking and ski touring (when i might need to adjust bindings or something). They do have some newer micro tools that look nice though but I haven't handled one.

[Coldfinger]

At a minimum a Gerber Ultralight LST with a cord lanyard clipped to the same biner as my abalakov hooker, here: LST Knife

 

and if it's a long day and lotsa rock or thin ice a mill bastard file.

 

Since I have Grivel tools no need for a wrench or pliers (fixed head), BD tools can be tightened with the pommel spike, so that's all. If I'm fishing too I bring a basic Gerber tool to fish out hooks.

 

Long trips I bring a little swiss army knife that has scissors so I can cut my nails, skin flaps etc. and maybe a larger knife than the LST.

 

Like to have scissors and a file if it's a multitool.

[Jon H]

I have an "Oh Shit!" biner with one of the tiny Leatherman multitools, 2 quicklinks, and 2 pre-tied prussik cords.

 

The knife I have is similar to the current Squirt S4 models but even smaller and lighter. It only has pliers, a blade, a file, and combo screwdriver/can/bottle opener. It does not have the scissors (a silly gimmick IMO) that the current version has. It weighs about 1.5 oz (maybe 48g?) and it's been indispensable. I've used every feature of it on route at least once to repair/fix/fiddle with something.

Edited February 27, 2011 by Jon H

[Friedrich]

Seems like the ideal tool(s) kinda depend on what gear you have. The lightest option for me is a set of 3 seperate tools:

 

1. Super-lightweight locking blade on a short accessory cord (goes on harness). Got it at the counter of a hardware store for a buck. Sharpened, it is fine. Have never actually used it though.

 

2. Super-thin and tiny file (just in case I totally mangle a pick or my monopoint crampons on a mixed route). Almost weightless. Can't remember where I got it, but probably a hardware store. Have used in hotel rooms in Lillooet but never on a route.

 

3. Allen wrench for my Quarks (I've never had to use it, but I bring it just in case)

 

Total weight probably 2 ounces or less, who knows.

 

Scissors might have been nice a few times on multi-day trips for hangnails and skin flaps, but oh well. A fabric bandaid and I'm good for the rest of the day. The skin helps protect the wound anyway. I've never carried pliers. Maybe I'm missing something there. What have you guys used your pliers for?

[DPS]

I think any of the quality build multitools (Leatherman, Gerber, etc) make small, lightweight tools. The one thing I look for in a climbing knife is a half serrated blade. The serrated blade cuts through old, stiff 1" tubular webbing better than a regular blade.

 

Also, unless you need a good pair of pliers (good for bc skiing) the Swiss Army made multi-tools before they had a name.

[denalidave]

I think any of the quality build multitools (Leatherman, Gerber, etc) make small, lightweight tools. The one thing I look for in a climbing knife is a half serrated blade. The serrated blade cuts through old, stiff 1" tubular webbing better than a regular blade.

 

Also, unless you need a good pair of pliers (good for bc skiing) the Swiss Army made multi-tools before they had a name.

I like the half-serrated/half regular edge blade so you get the best of both worlds (serrated suck for spreading peanut butter). If I need a bigger, more functional tool, I like my Kershaw multi-tool. It's big and heavy but the features I've used it most for doing field repairs on things like ski bindings, tent poles and such is the locking pliers (vicegripe)... Works as a wrench most of the time.

[Ryanb Blackburn]

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