wfinley Posted February 7, 2011 Posted February 7, 2011 3 questions: (1) how heavy? (2) what size ropes? (3) how would it be for icy ropes? Quote
G-spotter Posted February 7, 2011 Posted February 7, 2011 4) does it support rapbolting Cerro Torre? Quote
layton Posted February 7, 2011 Author Posted February 7, 2011 8.9-10.5 but like the Grigri, I bet you can get away with smaller. Supertopo reviewed the regular smart and said they used an 8mm fine. 4.75 ounces I don't know about icy ropes, I haven't used it on them. I would assume it would be fine as long as the rope wasn't a super fatty. Quote
hemp22 Posted February 7, 2011 Posted February 7, 2011 nice. I just saw that these were available - looking forward to picking one up. anyone know if they'll make a smaller version that's intended for twins/doubles? a Smartino? Quote
layton Posted February 8, 2011 Author Posted February 8, 2011 worked pretty good on my ice line (8mm) Quote
bearbreeder Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 thnks ... im looking for one ... that bit of extra security is worth the extra 2 oz or so i think Quote
denalidevo Posted February 8, 2011 Posted February 8, 2011 From Mammut: [font:Fixedsys]The alpine version of the award-winning Smart is the first safety device with braking force support, which is suitable for twin and half ropes as well as single ropes. It breaks the climber’s fall dynamically and locks even at low levels of force exerted by the user. Two second climbers can be belayed independently of each other and the Smart safety device is also ideal for abseiling. The autolocking mechanism can easily be released after a fall by the second climber. It allows you to quickly and easily change from securing the second climber via the belay point to securing the lead climber using your body. The Smart Alpine is available in two versions for ropes with a diameter of 7.5 to 9.5 millimetres and 8.9 to 10.5 millimetres.[/font] nice. I just saw that these were available - looking forward to picking one up. anyone know if they'll make a smaller version that's intended for twins/doubles? a Smartino? Quote
zeroforhire Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 I love the original version... I will be picking this up soon. thanks for the link Quote
zeroforhire Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 I love the original version... I will be picking this up soon. thanks for the link Quote
billcoe Posted February 9, 2011 Posted February 9, 2011 Interesting. There's no author mentioned there: so these are your words Mike? "One more thing it can do, but it is not advertised and I cannot recommend it because I don't want anyone getting hurt...I have rope-soloed with it and it worked awesome. In fact I like it better than anything out there for rope-soloing! " So are you talking rope solo leading or top roping or both? How does it compare to the 2X Petzl Mini Traxtions and the Edelrid Eddy? Quote
layton Posted February 9, 2011 Author Posted February 9, 2011 that's me. I was talking rope-solo leading. I can't compare it to those devices, I haven't used them...however i don't think those handle two ropes for rappelling and are heavier. Quote
DanielHarro Posted February 10, 2011 Posted February 10, 2011 they have the 8.9-10.5mm Alpine Smart at REI Portland Quote
layton Posted February 13, 2011 Author Posted February 13, 2011 I updated the review after spending some more time soloing with it. I think I need more time with it. Some things I will try next time: -one of those fancy belay caribiners that orients the biner -tying more back-up knots to take weight off the device I'm hoping the new grigri2 is smooth as butter. Yes, I like the silent partner but it's so goddamned big and heavy. Quote
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