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Posted (edited)

It would be easy enough to buy a bunch of regular SDS bits, take them to a mashince shop and have them tapper them. Probably cost you about the same price as buying a regualr SDS compatible drill holder!

 

I think I have 2 tapered shank bits that you can have for free if you meet me at the Everatt plastic pulling joint.

J

Edited by shapp
Posted

I never owned a "Fish" holder but used plenty of old Fish bits in my old Rawl. I think the bit in Gunkies picture may not fit the Fish holder if the fish holder was designed to take the fish 3/8" bits.

 

The Rawl holder came in (at least) two sizes (#12? and #14?) one small and the other large. I can't remember which is which. The Fish bits all fit the smaller size. I might be leaving work early and will take some pics this afternoon if my garage isnt too messy.

Posted

SDS referes to the shape of the shank that goes into the chuck. "SDS" has nothing to do with what the working end of the bit looks like or what it is made of.

Posted

Can you get SDS bits that don't have a carbide tip? I've never seen them. I've always used colbalt because you can modify the tip into a chisle. You can also make them any length you like, another huge advantage. Seems like they cut faster, alot faster, then the pointed tip that's on every SDS bit I've ever seen.

Posted

I'm with John on the chisel point. The SDS bits I've looked at have a tip profile clearly oriented more to rotary action. They just don't work as well for hand drilling. My best find ever - and I'll be sorely bummed when they die - were chisel shaped, carbide tip bits. I think they were even tapered shank, but I don't recall and I'm too lazy to go dig them out. Scored 'em off McMaster Carr about 12 yr ago. Long since out of the catalog.

Posted
I'm with John on the chisel point. The SDS bits I've looked at have a tip profile clearly oriented more to rotary action. They just don't work as well for hand drilling. My best find ever - and I'll be sorely bummed when they die - were chisel shaped, carbide tip bits. I think they were even tapered shank, but I don't recall and I'm too lazy to go dig them out. Scored 'em off McMaster Carr about 12 yr ago. Long since out of the catalog.

 

Wuz it these? http://www.mcmaster.com/#2808a31/=aukby8

 

"Taper-Shank Masonry Hammer Drill Bit 1/4" Bit Sz, 4-1/4" Drilling Depth, 6" O'all Length"

 

2808a31.gif

Posted

I think JK is referring to the drill tip, which is pointed in that picture. See the old Middendorf hand drilling/bolting article for a picture of the different types and some discussion.

 

http://bigwalls.net/climb/bolts.pdf

 

Also I noticed this thread on supertopo. "A taper" refers to the tapered shank, might still be able to find some new:

 

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1267216/Taper-shank-drills

 

 

Posted

Billcoe, I actually ordered two of these because the picure looked just like the ones I need but they turned out to be a much wider taper than the ol fish drill takes. THose are A tapered bits and apparently the ones for this drill are S tapered...? I have a Petzl rock pec but the fish seemed like it would be better. Like someone said above the SDS bits seem to work best for roto hammer action, or get a big Fixe. Shapp I'd like to check those out, when you heading to Everett next?

-B

Posted

tomorrow night probably around 7:30 pm, will bring along, met you at greyell's this fall, I am the climber/boater guy. Not sure if they will fit your drill, I don't know what taper they are for sure.

Posted

The one I have (pictured up higher in this thread) has a shank diam. of 3/8". The taper is 1-1/8" long and has a minimum diam. (i.e. at the end) of just under 5/16". Looks like a 10:1 taper.

Posted

Dug out the bits to bring to the gym, one is 5/16 but one is 3/8

 

It has the flat chisel tip, the tapered shank is a hand ground taper or possibley it was tapered but the taper was ground for some reason further. The taper appears to be the same as what Gunkiemikes bit is. Will bring to the gym tonight, be there at about 7:30pm

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