Parka question for Denali.

[mawhyyouare]

I am going on a west buttress climb to denali next summer in June and i was wondering about the parka requirements. I currently have a MH sub zero parka which seems to do just fine in the minnesotan winters with a layer underneath.Never tried extended days outside with it though. I was just wondering should i throw 500$ or more on a MH absolute zero parka or a marmot 8000 or feathered friends parka for Denali though most of the guide services recommend these.Want some inputs on the same.

 

 

Edited December 11, 2010 by mawhyyouare

[genepires]

Even if the temp are comparable between minnesota and denali, you will feel colder on denali due to the lower oxygen levels. Not enough oxygen to support a regular metabolism. Plus you can't plan gear on usual conditions but you gotta plan on the worst mutha fu$%ing conditions possible. And on denali high camp, that might be minus 50 with wind chill at altitude. For the sake of you, your family and your friends, get the best jacket, sleeping bag, boots, tent and everything else possible. Your gear is really such a cheap investment when you think about what they do for you.

 

One way to justify a $500 pair of boots is the question, are your toes worth $50 each? Same logic applies to jackets and other gear

 

good luck and hope you have mellow and easy conditions

[Water]

i am admittedly out of my league to stand behind this recommendation but others might be able to support it or refute it.. the Peak VX parka by Eddie Bauer has seen action fairly high on everest from reviews ive seen, so, that has got to be worth something.

 

at $269 + any discounts/sales/etc you can find (wait till after xmas?).. you might find yourself avoiding the $500 for a jacket.

 

have a good climb

[96avs01]

Since you are going in June, you should be fine with your Subzero Parka. Was very satisfied with mine in June 2006 when combined with MH Chugach pants, and FWIW I grew up braving the elements on a farm in SD. My partner had TNF Himalayan parka and Absolute Zero pant, and he never wore the pants as the parka was a bit overkill. Though all this is obviously dependent on whether you run hot or cold, but I would save the $$$ for your airfare or beverages at the West Rib pub.

[treknclime]

Hard to compare sub-zero temps at sea-level, to sub-zero temps at any altitude (with or without wind). Figure in fatigue, weight loss, slow partners, and a possible accident that could require a few hours of waiting around while rescue resources are mobilized, a big fat down coat on Denali just might save your bacon. It's an 'expedition' style climb, anyhow, so the weight for an extra warm coat, bag, and good boots (as others have noted), are not an issue. There's likely a reason why all the guide services are in concert on the topic. Would figure they're the ones with Denali experience that have man-day counts into the thousands. I'd trust their advice...

Edited December 12, 2010 by treknclime

[denalidave]

Maybe already considered this, but you can often find used expedition parkas for a fraction of the cost. I've seen lots of them here, garage sales and used gear shops. Folks spend the $500+, use it for a few weeks on the big mt, then no longer need it. Just an idea...

 

That said, I did fine with a cheapo $100 Burlington coat factory gangsta puffy. We did the north side in April/May with temps as low as -60F. I just made do by adding more layers. I'd really regretted not buying the -40 sleeping bag, however. Folks were climbing high with animal skins back in the day and seemed to do well. But yeah, get the best you can find, whether it is new or used...

[treknclime]

Good points, Dave. On your N Side trip, were you on a NOLS program?

 

Guess the key is... if you decide to go with lighter multiple layers (my choice on Denali nowadays), the layers need to all work together to give you that ultimate cold weather protection... especially when the chips are down.

 

Have a great trip, and let us know how things go!

[denalidave]

Good points, Dave. On your N Side trip, were you on a NOLS program?

Nope, me and a couple buddies hiked in from Wonder Lake...

 

[teamrussback]

"youare" How many people in you're party? We're looking for a few climbing partners for June.

[Dane]

 

I use a big jacket on Denali to help my bag and for camp duty until you get to 17. Then I might actually climb in it as well.

 

Here is a look at some of the better heavy weights.

 

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/02/belay-jacketsthe-heavy-weights.html

[mawhyyouare]

Thanks guys, that was a ton of good information to chew upon.I think i will scout around for a used parka.

 

@Teamrussback - I will unfortunely not be able to join you guys, my plans are locked in.