Who gots it?

[LostCamKenny]

so i'm not really wanting the thing back but i am just curious if anyone knows who got my stinkin cam out of the crack on the second pitch of the corner... anyone? anyone?

 

i'd more or less like to congratulate the soul that got done what i failed to do for two f-ing years and hear the story of its extraction.

[denalidave]

But what a cool name you got out of the whole deal... Gotta be better than what everyone was calling you prior (DAK - Dumb Ass Kenny).

[froodish]

There wasn't anything on the 2nd pitch yesterday - are you talking about that old fixed (C4?) that was welded in there for years?

[LostCamKenny]

it was a cam i got at climbmax about 5yrs ago but it wasn't a bd. but, yes, the one that was welded into the crack. joseph cut the one out before mine so i was almost wondering if he did the same to mine. my cam was the third one stuck in the same location, on that pitch, in 5 or so years...

 

 

[ivan]

the crime of the century!

[King Beatard]

So... now can we call you Brokeback Kenny?

[denalidave]

So... now can we call you Brokeback Kenny?

 

Only if he finds the cam... After all, the cam is still lost, to him at least.

 

How about broken-cam-in-the-back kenny?

[kevbone]

it joseph cut the one out before mine so i was almost wondering if he did the same to mine.

 

 

 

I did not know Joseph climbed the SE corner.

[stevetimetravlr]

Rick got his lower leg stuck on the offwidth start to Free for all today and couldn't get it out half way up. Thank goodness there were two guys next door with a rope on Free for Some and they swung it over and helped him take the weight off and he was able to extricate himself. It was kind of a scary situation for a while because I couldn't do anything to help him except belay. Thanks again guys if you're out there!

[ivan]

woulda been funnier if he'd shit his pants n' hurled in the process

[stevetimetravlr]

I think he almost did.

How bout Assbroke Kenny? That has a certain ring to it....

[King Beatard]

woulda been funnier if he'd shit his pants n' hurled in the process

 

[ivan]

woulda been funnier if he'd shit his pants n' hurled in the process

 

yeah, but rick was leading! so....did he finish it up to the anchor?

[denalidave]

I think he almost did.

How bout Assbroke Kenny? That has a certain ring to it....

Broke-ass cam K, also covers his financial position...

[stevetimetravlr]

yes Ivan, he got it togather and finished it up to the anchor and then followed me on up Dods, so kudos to him for that.

he told me later he thought it happened because he was hungover,just like the guy in the video!

Poor Kenny, yeah loosing cams are expensive!

[hemp22]

Hey Steve - good to meet you.

This is Jeff.

 

It's funny that you guys mention that Cedar Wright video, because that was one of the first things that came to our minds.

 

And, yes, big props to Rick for having the mental fortitude to get back on the horse and finish up the pitch after a scare like that.

 

Hope the rest of the day went off without a hitch, we had to leave pretty quickly right afterwards.

[JosephH]

it was a cam i got at climbmax about 5yrs ago but it wasn't a bd. but, yes, the one that was welded into the crack. joseph cut the one out before mine so i was almost wondering if he did the same to mine. my cam was the third one stuck in the same location, on that pitch, in 5 or so years...

I cut the yellow Master Cam out of the start of Little Wing. The old cam on the slab I got out with just my fingers and it was actually pretty easy, but Larry had tried to cut it out sometime before I took a stab at it so that helped out some. I did go over and briefly look at LCK's cam, but I don't climb with a nut tool and that baby definitely wasn't coming out with fingers. Larry is the zen-miester of stuck cams with the patience of a saint, maybe check with him.

 

P.S. Still puzzled about why folks don't climb that pitch via the center of the slab. I did that corner crack like I did the right side of the FFA pillar - once, and never again.

[ivan]

P.S. Still puzzled about why folks don't climb that pitch via the center of the slab. I did that corner crack like I did the right side of the FFA pillar - once, and never again.

easy to understand - it's a beginner's climb, and most beginner-leaders go where the pro looks most obvious (even if it does eat their precious, shiny new cams )

[JosephH]

P.S. Still puzzled about why folks don't climb that pitch via the center of the slab. I did that corner crack like I did the right side of the FFA pillar - once, and never again.

easy to understand - it's a beginner's climb, and most beginner-leaders go where the pro looks most obvious (even if it does eat their precious, shiny new cams )

But there's plenty of pro up the center of the slab and the climbing over in the crack is like a grade harder.

[denalidave]

P.S. Still puzzled about why folks don't climb that pitch via the center of the slab. I did that corner crack like I did the right side of the FFA pillar - once, and never again.

easy to understand - it's a beginner's climb, and most beginner-leaders go where the pro looks most obvious (even if it does eat their precious, shiny new cams )

But there's plenty of pro up the center of the slab and the climbing over in the crack is like a grade harder.

If I'm roped up, I always take the slab. Otherwise, I usually stay in the crack/corner, but the slab is much funner climbing...

[LostCamKenny]

easy to understand - it's a beginner's climb, and most beginner-leaders go where the pro looks most obvious (even if it does eat their precious, shiny new cams )

what are you saying, whiteboy? the gear on the slab is just as easy to find/use as it is in the crack... the crack just makes the pitch more fun [for me] instead of a walk up another slab.

 

the climbing over in the crack is like a grade harder.

the slab feels more difficult to me, but i just like cracks.

[LostCamKenny]

But there's plenty of pro up the center of the slab and the climbing over in the crack is like a grade harder.

you really think its a grade harder? maybe for a move, but it certainly doesn't last that long...

[LostCamKenny]

So... now can we call you Brokeback Kenny?

only if you want me to kick yer sorry colorado ass next time i see you

[hemp22]

But there's plenty of pro up the center of the slab and the climbing over in the crack is like a grade harder.

For the novice leader who's on the route for their first time, it makes sense that they would head toward where they can see a definite gear placement, instead of up the slab where they might not be able to see any. It's only a few feet to the left, and the rock is still solid, so it's not like they're really off route or in danger.

I know that I headed up to that corner to place gear my first time.

I'm curious - you said that you did that corner once...why?

Was it your first time on the route, and you thought that might be where it goes, and didn't know better yet?

The start of FFA is similar - for their first time there, people might not know that the right-hand start sucks until they actually get high enough on it...

[JosephH]

I'm curious - you said that you did that corner once...why?

Was it your first time on the route, and you thought that might be where it goes, and didn't know better yet?

Finally just decided to go check it out. Thought it was ghastly awkward, much more difficult, and not particularly pleasant. And I've always thought the gear on the slab was completely obvious; exposure is more what I would assume makes folks want to take to the corner vs. the slab.