yosemite routes off the beaten path

[julius]

Hi, I was wondering if anyone has suggestions on good moderate (5.8-5.11) multipitch climbs at Yosemite beyond the "classics" -- have already climbed East Buttress of El Cap, Moratorium, Serenity Crack, Sons of Yesterday, Royal Arches to Crest Jewel, Snake Dike, Regular Route on Higher Cathedral Spire, NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock, East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, Central Pillar of Frenzy, the Rostrum. Am considering Steck Salathe, South by Southwest, Braille Book, lots of single pitch options, (not strong enough or brave enough for Astroman yet) but would love to hear from anyone about some less obvious options that they would recommend. Thanks.

[steelfrog]

Out of the Twenty Lakes/Saddlebag area, how about E ridge of Conness; also North Peak. Fabulous views.

[Highlander]

Here is a few, no crowds and more adventure than your typical Supertopo climbs:

 

Lower Brother: Absolutly Free to Hawkmans Escape 5.9

 

Widows Tear Area: Windfall or Windjammer 5.11, there is a continuation to the top of the point that looks adventurous.

 

Sentinel Creek: Mental Block 5.10c, also all the single pitch climbs in the area are classic

 

Schultz's Ridge: Demons Delight 5.11A

 

Lower Cathedral Rock: Beggars Buttress: 5.11b

 

Cream Area: Energy Crisis 5.11d (single pitch)

[mountainmatt]

South by southwest is a really fun route, definitely add it to the list. The summit is a nice place to chill and eat lunch while looking at the Captain.

 

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[W]

Hotline on Elephant Rock- you can yard and tension through the crux 11d/12a on the 2nd pitch if need be to get to THE handcrack.

 

Chouinard/Herbert on Sentinel

 

Kor/Beck on middle cath. (just the first 5p)

 

North buttress of Middle- not the DNB, the Harding. Kind loose with a couple shitty belays but, 'adventurous', and long.

 

Definitely second Beggars Buttress on Lower Cathedral- a touch harder than Rostrum and not as clean but the final headwall is sweet.

[billcoe]

This got missed so far: West Face of El Cap.

[ScottP]

Hotline on Elephant Rock- you can yard and tension through the crux 11d/12a on the 2nd pitch if need be to get to THE handcrack.

 

Chouinard/Herbert on Sentinel

 

Kor/Beck on middle cath. (just the first 5p)

 

North buttress of Middle- not the DNB, the Harding. Kind loose with a couple shitty belays but, 'adventurous', and long.

 

Definitely second Beggars Buttress on Lower Cathedral- a touch harder than Rostrum and not as clean but the final headwall is sweet.

 

Why not the DNB? I really enjoyed that route.

(Well, except for the last little bit of dirt and pine needles.)

[froodish]

At the edge of the range, but how about Autobahn? Just had its bolts replaced:

 

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1265655&msg=1265655#msg1265655

 

 

[pink]

Hotline on Elephant Rock- you can yard and tension through the crux 11d/12a on the 2nd pitch if need be to get to THE handcrack.

 

Chouinard/Herbert on Sentinel

 

Kor/Beck on middle cath. (just the first 5p)

 

North buttress of Middle- not the DNB, the Harding. Kind loose with a couple shitty belays but, 'adventurous', and long.

 

Definitely second Beggars Buttress on Lower Cathedral- a touch harder than Rostrum and not as clean but the final headwall is sweet.

 

Why not the DNB? I really enjoyed that route.

(Well, except for the last little bit of dirt and pine needles.)

 

DNB= Do Not Bother

[ivan]

5.11 is moderate?

 

i dug on braile book bigtime - bit of an approach to hike up to it, but def worth - far cry from 5.11 though

[julius]

Awesome!! Thanks for all the great suggestions!

[pink]

how about the original route on mt. watkins, well off the beaten path.

[W]

 

Why not the DNB? I really enjoyed that route.

(Well, except for the last little bit of dirt and pine needles.)

 

I haven't done it, so I couldn't recommend it. It's on the list though- but as pink said it's been called Do Not Bother and Desperately Needs Bolts, and one experienced party failed a 4 piece anchor with a factor 2 fall and took the 1000 foot ride. I've also heard some claim "oh it's not that bad". It does look cool.

[ScottP]

DNB= Do Not Bother

 

Except for some runout, but relatively easy chimneys and tiptoeing over a short bit of bass-sounding, stacked blocks (which probably aren't even there any more), what's not to like? The rock is mostly good, and there are some truly memorable pitches, in a good way.

 

IMO the Do Not Bother moniker is bullshit.

[Rad]

But back to the point: the N Buttress of Middle Cathedral is definitely cool. I thought belays were fine, though we got rained off at pitch 11.

 

Second Braille Book. Great route.

 

I've never done them, but the routes up the Cathedral Spires look fun (both 5.9 I think).