julius Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Hi, I was wondering if anyone has suggestions on good moderate (5.8-5.11) multipitch climbs at Yosemite beyond the "classics" -- have already climbed East Buttress of El Cap, Moratorium, Serenity Crack, Sons of Yesterday, Royal Arches to Crest Jewel, Snake Dike, Regular Route on Higher Cathedral Spire, NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock, East Buttress of Middle Cathedral, Central Pillar of Frenzy, the Rostrum. Am considering Steck Salathe, South by Southwest, Braille Book, lots of single pitch options, (not strong enough or brave enough for Astroman yet) but would love to hear from anyone about some less obvious options that they would recommend. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelfrog Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Out of the Twenty Lakes/Saddlebag area, how about E ridge of Conness; also North Peak. Fabulous views. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlander Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Here is a few, no crowds and more adventure than your typical Supertopo climbs: Lower Brother: Absolutly Free to Hawkmans Escape 5.9 Widows Tear Area: Windfall or Windjammer 5.11, there is a continuation to the top of the point that looks adventurous. Sentinel Creek: Mental Block 5.10c, also all the single pitch climbs in the area are classic Schultz's Ridge: Demons Delight 5.11A Lower Cathedral Rock: Beggars Buttress: 5.11b Cream Area: Energy Crisis 5.11d (single pitch) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 South by southwest is a really fun route, definitely add it to the list. The summit is a nice place to chill and eat lunch while looking at the Captain. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 Hotline on Elephant Rock- you can yard and tension through the crux 11d/12a on the 2nd pitch if need be to get to THE handcrack. Chouinard/Herbert on Sentinel Kor/Beck on middle cath. (just the first 5p) North buttress of Middle- not the DNB, the Harding. Kind loose with a couple shitty belays but, 'adventurous', and long. Definitely second Beggars Buttress on Lower Cathedral- a touch harder than Rostrum and not as clean but the final headwall is sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 This got missed so far: West Face of El Cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Hotline on Elephant Rock- you can yard and tension through the crux 11d/12a on the 2nd pitch if need be to get to THE handcrack. Chouinard/Herbert on Sentinel Kor/Beck on middle cath. (just the first 5p) North buttress of Middle- not the DNB, the Harding. Kind loose with a couple shitty belays but, 'adventurous', and long. Definitely second Beggars Buttress on Lower Cathedral- a touch harder than Rostrum and not as clean but the final headwall is sweet. Why not the DNB? I really enjoyed that route. (Well, except for the last little bit of dirt and pine needles.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froodish Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 At the edge of the range, but how about Autobahn? Just had its bolts replaced: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1265655&msg=1265655#msg1265655 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Hotline on Elephant Rock- you can yard and tension through the crux 11d/12a on the 2nd pitch if need be to get to THE handcrack. Chouinard/Herbert on Sentinel Kor/Beck on middle cath. (just the first 5p) North buttress of Middle- not the DNB, the Harding. Kind loose with a couple shitty belays but, 'adventurous', and long. Definitely second Beggars Buttress on Lower Cathedral- a touch harder than Rostrum and not as clean but the final headwall is sweet. Why not the DNB? I really enjoyed that route. (Well, except for the last little bit of dirt and pine needles.) DNB= Do Not Bother Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 5.11 is moderate? i dug on braile book bigtime - bit of an approach to hike up to it, but def worth - far cry from 5.11 though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julius Posted September 16, 2010 Author Share Posted September 16, 2010 Awesome!! Thanks for all the great suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 how about the original route on mt. watkins, well off the beaten path. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Why not the DNB? I really enjoyed that route. (Well, except for the last little bit of dirt and pine needles.) I haven't done it, so I couldn't recommend it. It's on the list though- but as pink said it's been called Do Not Bother and Desperately Needs Bolts, and one experienced party failed a 4 piece anchor with a factor 2 fall and took the 1000 foot ride. I've also heard some claim "oh it's not that bad". It does look cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 DNB= Do Not Bother Except for some runout, but relatively easy chimneys and tiptoeing over a short bit of bass-sounding, stacked blocks (which probably aren't even there any more), what's not to like? The rock is mostly good, and there are some truly memorable pitches, in a good way. IMO the Do Not Bother moniker is bullshit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted September 17, 2010 Share Posted September 17, 2010 But back to the point: the N Buttress of Middle Cathedral is definitely cool. I thought belays were fine, though we got rained off at pitch 11. Second Braille Book. Great route. I've never done them, but the routes up the Cathedral Spires look fun (both 5.9 I think). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.