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complete north ridge stuart- rope recommendations?


jesselillis

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since theirs a bailout at the halfway you can get away with one rope but ya gotta bring crampons? for that. also depends how versed you are in down climbing and how much over-all risk your willing to take. other than that, one rope is fine. unless someone gets hurt and it starts raining, then your going to wish to god you had two ropes, but theirs so much pro on that climb you could build anchors anywhere and eat your rack. of course this is the long winded version

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what have folks brought (or wished they brought)?

im thinking of bringing either twins (excessive rope drag?), a single double (ive heard the pitches worth pitching out are < 1/2 rope length) or maybe a single double and a 6mm tag line.

 

I just did it this weekend. All I had was a 70m, so that's what we took. We could do some long pitches, but really should have been simul-climbing most of it. I think that a 35m rope with a super skinny 35m tag line for hauling your packs through the 5.8 slot and up the gendarme would be the best for weight and rope management if you're going to simul-climb a lot. If you're going to pitch a lot of it out, I'd take a 70m.

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If you are pithing it out, a 70M would be slick. If you are going simul, a 30M would be nice. I had good luck taking a 60Mx 8mm rope and folding it in half and simul with it, when the time came to pitch-out, we un-folded the rope and used it like a single.

 

-Nate

Edited by eldiente
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You should simul most of the route, and when you do try not to have more than 30-35m between you. Otherwise rope drag is bad. The gendarme pitches are short. I'd say single 60 is fine. You don't want to retreat off the route anyway, just go up and over.

 

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