Equalizing anchors with double-loop knots??

[dberdinka]

Looking for a knot-nerd to critque a setup. Will I die if I use a "portuguese" or "french" bowline in the end of a rope to equalize two bolts? Check it out....

 

Portuguese-Bowline

[selkirk]

not a total knot-nerd, but the warning on the page is "however, should be done with caution, as the loops can slip when loaded individually"

 

sounds like potential extension to me...

 

If you're looking for a douple loop type knot, you might consider a double figure 8

Double Figure 8

 

thought I think that could potentially have an issue where if one loop broke or was cut, it could pull through and compromise the other

[dberdinka]

The comment "as the loops can slip when loaded individually" originally had some appeal as this indicates that the knot would essentially self equalize regardless of direction of pull.

 

I haven't considered what might happen should one anchor fail.

 

Came across another interesting knot here....

 

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=239823&msg=240945

[Rad]

Cool knot site. You didn't mention, but I'm guessing you'd plan to clip each loop to a biner on a bolt. What you want to avoid is clipping both loops to both bolts, which essentially replicates the american death triangle.

[lunger]

bowline on a bight (i recall john long called it the "atomic clip"?) is quick, simple and has worked well for me for years. the 'ears' are adjustable to equalize toward direction of pull, but not self-equalizing by design. dress properly, as always. the knot.

[Jon H]

For two fat bolts, why make things complicated? Just two clove hitches in series and you're good to go. Speed is safety.

[cman]

i will second the bowline on a bight, which is tied differently than the one on the site you linked. Also the double figure 8 Selkirk references works similarly well (i have heard that called figure 8 on a bight). I like the bowline because it is a little easier to equalize that the 8, but both are good secure knots.

[hanman]

Big fan of B.O.B., and a double bowline is fun for a 3 piece anchor if needed (3 adjustable loops). I've never liked fiddling with cloves, unless it's in pumpkin pie.

 

MH