keenwesh Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 can I do it without a #5? how bad would the run-out be? a total solo? or like a 40 foot fall onto a slab? anyone have a #5 they'd loan me? I just can't justify buying a $100 cam that I'd never use. oh, and I don't really climb offwidths at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 You'll want an old 5 or a new 6. You'd be walking it up. But the OW isn't bad or harsh. It's in a corner. You can fit your butt cheek/torso in if you're not fat. You can stem with your left foot in and right foot on the wall with your back against the corner. Many have done it without a big piece. You just run it out 25 feet. Ideally you should be trim and fit. Then you can shove your ass cheek in there and chillax. Or, save money, but not weight and bring a tire jack. That works too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 If you choose not to bring a big piece your last piece would be a #4. The OW isn't vertical. And their are holds for your right foot. That's pretty much all the beta. If you brought a new #5, it wouldn't get you far, (about a 3ft. usable space.) So again, bring the biggest one if you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbcbd Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 (edited) Stop by and I'll lend you my #6 - seriously. We used a #5 for most of it and I walked it for a few moves. It would be a good runout without, so it's up to you. The OW is not hard though or very strenuous... but it is still nice to protect. So yeah, the 5 was fine, but the 6 would take you farther and the weight difference wouldn't be that much. But whatever, if you want to borrow a #5 you can borrow mine. Â Doug Edited May 16, 2010 by cbcbd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 i've loaned my 5 and/or 6 out for backbone climbers before and would be happy to again. you drop you buy. im in ltown. pm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 for Sol and Doug! Trust people and it makes the world a better place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted May 16, 2010 Author Share Posted May 16, 2010 thanks guys!!! that would be great. If I can get a trip together I'll definitely take you up on your offer. the 6 can double as a club for defense against over eager goats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilchuck71 Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 for Sol and Doug! Trust people and it makes the world a better place. Â :tup:x2 Now that is the spirit! That type of act is nice to see in the world of the infernet flame downs.....etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Well, and its a small world 'n all. I can vouch for Keenwash, he's a young Olympia local. In fact, I think he's about to show up in my yard momentarily... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmandoug Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Some climbers report that a number 6 is worth owning purely as a weapon to discipline the unruly, something to consider when you contemplate buying one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahT Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 The more I climb, the more I realize its not the weight of 1-2 bigger pieces holding me back... Â Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pilchuck71 Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 The more I climb, the more I realize its not the weight of 1-2 bigger pieces holding me back... Â Indeed sir....indeed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted May 17, 2010 Author Share Posted May 17, 2010 while I spent all afternoon in your backyard Off I did not see you. I guess non of us actually talked too you. I got that 11a that you pointed out to me, the slab clip at the top is a little too exciting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 The Manly Wham is a fine route, well done. As for that upper part, it's a clean fall, though you might shriek just a little bit. The trick is to just go ahead and make the move rather than getting hung up on clipping as soon as you can, makes a much more stable stance than teetering on the slab with your heel in space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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