[TR] Index LTW - Jap Gardens/10% MV, Iron Horse

[Jeff_T]

It sure was nice to climb at Index without the rain. I had been wanting to climb 10% Meterological Vinculation for a while now and finally got around to it. I was going to do the route from the true start, but it really looked nasty and not fun. Seemed like a much better idea to start up Japanese Gardens and then move over to 10%. It was great fun, a lot of little pro and a few hook moves. Probably one of the harder aid routes that I've done.

 

Also got a chance to climb Iron Horse which was another one on my list. It was a much more relaxing route than 10%. The only spicy part was about half way up. Had to do an interesting move with a cam hook in an undercling, which worked really well, then onto some dicey gear. Great route. Maybe next time I'll see if I can get myself to go up the tiny seam on the left above the first anchor.

 

I also tried Narrow Arrow Overhang, which I climbed a couple of years ago. Last time I climbed p2, this time I tried p1. Well, I made it about half way and got to the 2nd bolt and just hit a brick wall. The only place I could see to get any gear in was a slimy, expanding crack. I had to top step just to try to get an offset Alien in there and it just wasn't going to happen. No idea how my partner made it past this last time.

 

Climbing was great. Weather turned out beautiful, even if it did start out a little chilly and windy. Good times.

 

Pics:

http://www.cascadesclimber.com/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=60

Edited April 13, 2010 by Jeff_T

[ivan]

*fraked up interwebs*

Edited April 12, 2010 by ivan

[ivan]

i did narrow overhang this past summer - can't recall it fir'shit, but apparently i did it w/ just cam hooks n' hand-placed beaks

 

i do remember the anchor i built at the bottom though

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=893851

[Jeff_T]

Heh...well after looking at my last TR I guess I did lead p1 of Narrow Arrow Overhang last time. Don't what the hell I did, but I guess it worked.

 

Hmmm, I thought I was supposed to get better with more experience lol.

 

http://www.cascadesclimber.com/coppermine/displayimage.php?pid=1522&fullsize=1

Edited April 13, 2010 by Jeff_T

[Peter_Puget]

I think that the NA had some old bolts replaced. The were a spattering of bolts on the route that aren't used free climbing. I think several of these were removed. Perhaps aiding before you used one of them.

[boadman]

It sure was nice to climb at Index without the rain. I had been wanting to climb 10% Meterological Vinculation for a while now and finally got around to it. I was going to do the route from the true start, but it really looked nasty and not fun. Seemed like a much better idea to start up Japanese Gardens and then move over to 10%. It was great fun, a lot of little pro and a few hook moves. Probably one of the harder aid routes that I've done.

 

Also got a chance to climb Iron Horse which was another one on my list. It was a much more relaxing route than 10%. The only spicy part was about half way up. Had to do an interesting move with a cam hook in an undercling, which worked really well, then onto some dicey gear. Great route. Maybe next time I'll see if I can get myself to go up the tiny seam on the left above the first anchor.

 

I also tried Narrow Arrow Overhang, which I climbed a couple of years ago. Last time I climbed p2, this time I tried p1. Well, I made it about half way and got to the 2nd bolt and just hit a brick wall. The only place I could see to get any gear in was a slimy, expanding crack. I had to top step just to try to get an offset Alien in there and it just wasn't going to happen. No idea how my partner made it past this last time.

 

Climbing was great. Weather turned out beautiful, even if it did start out a little chilly and windy. Good times.

 

Pics:

http://www.cascadesclimber.com/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=60

 

Why were you aiding free-climbs? I hope there weren't people waiting for you...

[Jeff_T]

Peter_Puget - You might be right. I don't recall having to make any really hard moves on that pitch. I must have used one of those old bolts.

 

Boadman - I don't think we held anyone up. If so, my apologies.

[tomtom]

Why were you aiding free-climbs? I hope there weren't people waiting for you...

 

The lineup for people ready to free p1 of City Park was at least 8 people long this weekend.

 

Damn aiders.

[summitchaserCJB]

Why were you aiding free-climbs? I hope there weren't people waiting for you...

 

The lineup for people ready to free p1 of City Park was at least 8 people long this weekend.

 

Damn aiders.

You mean the 5.10 bolt ladder? What were they doing, linking that with Godzilla?

[corvallisclimb]

I suggest Narrow Arrow Direct as a better aid option. Everyone seems to do the overhang while the direct is still an aid pitch. The C3 varition from the direct to the overhang in that area makes for a fun aid pitch as well.

 

Edit: Oh that also reminds me for all those aid climbers at the LTW with a hammer. We did some silly FA one day beween Narrow Arrow Direct and the A4 heads variation. It was prolly only 50' of new climbing but some cool A3+/A4 beaks n shit to some of the heads and the up the C3 varition. Narrow Arrow Super Direct.

Edited April 14, 2010 by corvallisclimb

[Jeff_T]

Very cool corvallisclimb. How many of those heads are left on the A4 variation? I could only see one from the ground.

 

We were originally going to do N.A. Direct, but it was occupied

 

[corvallisclimb]

Damn! Looks like EVERYONE was aiding on the LTW, aid is back! Hmm not too sure last time I was there in 08 they were all fixed. Its a lot of circle heads in horizontal pods. Did some other FA in 07 thats super fun high quality a direct variation to Avenging the Goddess Kring on the Rattle Tale, A2 beaks, 4 of each size I think and a LA or two maybe an angle. #2 cam in a pod to start. Called "Shitty Park" since it looks a lot like City Park but thinner. Good beginner nailing route. Super straight forward took like 20 min to do the FA. KBs work too but maybe harder?