telemarker Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 I started out using a 7mm cordelette, like 10' or so, but found it too stiff to tie off quickly, and almost impossible to tie in to three pieces plus a tie-in knot on a belay station. I've since been using a 5mm cord, about 15', and it's great and never kinks up. Am I compromising safety by using a smaller dia. cord? Obviously, it's not going to take a dynamic fall, so what diameter do other climbers use for cordelettes? Is 5mm too small? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 use a spectra webolette or 5.5mm tech cord or what the hell, just tie in with the rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lizard_brain Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 I used 7mm x 24', but I wish I'd used 6mm or even 5.5mm Spectra - but the Spectra costs about three times as much as the Mammut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 5.5mm Spectra x about 25'(??) feet has always worked well for me. It's always long enough, even when you have widely spaced pieces in an anchor and I can just double it up if need be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 i used to use 4m of 5.5mspectra cord but mostly nowadays I just use a double-shoulder length sling and a daisy chain. that's belaying off the harness though. if you are gonna be using a reverso or b52 or whatever using a 'lette becomes more important to get the high power point to belay from. i guess my point is, if your cord isnt long enough, extend the pieces out with slings then tie off the extensions with the 'lette. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 Just wondering what routes you guys are using these guys on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Just wondering what routes you guys are using these guys on. freeway gunshow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted August 8, 2002 Author Share Posted August 8, 2002 But, I think the cord I have is regular nylon, and not spectra. Insufficient or adequate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bellemontagne Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 Mtn Tools Web-o-Lette's rock. A spool of Maxim Tech Cord or 25' of 5.5mm BD Gemini II (They're both the same material-Technora). Just be sure to read this: Comparative Cord Strength Tests Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 metolius and onsight make webolettes that a re cheaper than the mtn tools one i do believe... especially if you buy the onsight one at MEC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 I have the maxim chord that you can buy in a 25' spool. it works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 i would be kinda leery of using regular 5mm instead of 7mm as it is significantly weaker. i advise you to chop up that 5mm cord into prussik or rap slings and buy yourself either spectra or a thicker chunk of regular static cord like 7mm or better yet, a webolette. i mean, a 5m length of spectra 5.5 costs like $20 bucks CDN at MEC, yeah thats 4x more than the 7mm but it is much lighter. and a Dyneema daisy chain costs $20 too nowadays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 5mm nylon cord is about half as strong as the 7mm. I wouldn't be comfortable using it for this purpose. I use about 18-20 ft of 6mm nylon cord. A decent compromise -- not too bulky and reasonably strong. Another nice thing about using nylon cord is that you can easily cut it into 2 or 3 rap slings if you're bailing. This may or may not be important to you, especially if you climb with mainly sewn slings... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigWave Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 One other bonus to nylon is the ease of using it as rescue gear; escaping the belay, friction knots, etc. Webolettes rock bot they are pretty slick if ya try to use them as friction\rescue gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted August 12, 2002 Share Posted August 12, 2002 The size cordelette you use is inversely proportional to the size of your horsecock or ehhumm... snakecock, whatever you may be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coondog Posted August 18, 2002 Share Posted August 18, 2002 Maxim tech cord works well, but seems damn stiff for tying and slick -- recommend 3" tail. 22-25' of el cheapo 7mm comes in handy for all sorts o things. Anybody seen these wonderful webolettes cheap anywhere yet? Seen them in use, and there's definitely no better way to secure your horsecock, they're just spendy... --Unemployed Coondog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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