Protecting snice?

[Braydon]

Is there really any good way to protect snice? I saw what looked like a cross between a screw and picket before...it was like a 30cm hammer in "screw" with a little wider diameter than a regular screw. Anyone have any idea what I'm talking about? I know I've seen this before, I'm pretty sure it was a European company though but I'm having a hard time finding this.

 

Thanks

[genepires]

The only pro for snice is a solidly placed self belay and a prayer to not fall.

 

I can't imagine anything smaller than a 10 ft pole being useful in snice, whatever snice really is.

Edited February 10, 2010 by genepires

[Dan_Miller]

I think what you're discussing Braydon is a 'Snarg' a pound in, screw out, (note Dane's correction below) ice tube with exterior and interior ribs that also had a long narrow slot on the bottom (in line with the hanger,for ice pressure release, expansion.) My recollection (neither had or actually used one), is a little hazy. I've no question whatsoever our man Dane could fill in the particulars. A Google search of 'ice snarg' reveals more. I was having difficulty recalling the manufacturer.

 

And everything Gene said is really true as well.

[Dane]

Hey Dan

 

Snargs were pound in, chop out, ice screws....sounds confusing I know so don't ask. But they really made some of the first really hard vertcial ice protectable before anything else. I still have a few. But Snargs were water ice pro not for snice. Made and designed by Lowe and later Camp btw.

 

The deal with good snice is it is so easy to climb with even reasonably modern gear that no one bothers to protect it. Umbilicals work magic as a portable belay when climbing in those conditions. In bad nice a tool will never hold you but the feet are good. In good snice your tools will be bomber and your feet will still be good.

 

I use prayer myself and then look hard for good sticks

 

But in reality good snice also generally means good ice as well if you look hard enough, so short screws will often work just fine as will rock pins.

 

Snice with good feet, not so good sticks and pleanty of ice that the climber is obviously working hard at to avoid.

 

 

 

[Dan_Miller]

Thanks for the clarification Dane. It was the "Wart Hogs" that were pound in screw out (I still have a fairly beat up one in the gear archhives.) It may even be that I've twice made that mistake when responding to posts concerning them on CC.com (old age doubtless).

[Dane]

Naw you had it right both the SNARG and the Warthogs were suppose to be pound in and screw out ice "pitons".

 

I got the pound in part pretty fast but broke every warthog I tried to screw out (our only 4 on one alaska trip).

 

The SNARGS were also pound in and screw out but you generally had to chop the first half of the screw out of the ice to get a tool on them so you could turn them. Fast to place though in a bad situation.

 

So both were supposed to be pound in and screw out. Just never seemed to work getting them out in my limited experience. Now you know why I said, pound in, chop out, ice screws and don't ask:)

 

 

[G-spotter]

Braydon is this what you're thinking of?

 

http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticality/anchors/ice-protection-accessories-0/snowtube

[layton]

warthogs are great for turf! www.needlesports.com is remaking them.

snargs are great for bailing since they take FOREVER to remove.

Speaking of bail gear, anyone know where to get the red capped russian ti screw?

[G-spotter]

Speaking of bail gear, anyone know where to get the red capped russian ti screw?

 

this dude had one up yesterday but it already sold

http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=5977&gonew=1#UNREAD

[chirp]

anyone know where to get the red capped russian ti screw?

 

There are many on Ebay right now.