index

[erik]

quote:

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Originally posted by W:

Most of the classics have good bolts and chains.

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yes we should all thank the good people at washington mountain alliance for all their hardwork and effort in replacing the old fixed gear!!!!!!! there is still plenty of work to be done, i say spend a day (if you know how) makineg everyone's favorite crag better for all...!!!

[scott_harpell]

thanks for all the input. can't wait to head south. been missing the ol red white and blue. hopefully i will see you guys there. safe climbin!

[scott_harpell]

just wonderin looked at the topos and the lizard looks cool (thanks for the pointer) just wondering what the pro is like.... what sizes types do you recomend. andy bolts. just want my first climb in that area to go off without a hitch. thanks a lot for all the great suggestions...

[bigwalling]

Heres some info off a site. I'm hoping to get on it real soon. I just got to find the time.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=3567

[NoBolt]

Model WorkerSloe ChildrenCurious PosesCunning StuntPhone Calls from the deadThemGorilla my dreams

I think you get the point. There is lots of stuff to experiment with.

[rayborbon]

I never could figure out Model Worker. Damn hard but good rock... I like that shothole for pro

[Peter_Puget]

Small rack to 3" maybe 3.5" Will be fine. The first 30' pitch has the most wide stuff. You don't need big stuff in the chimney which can be avoided. The chimney is the crux.

[Bronco]

Peter Peter Pumkin Eater - sorry to contradict you but, here's what I have used recently

P1 - 15' funky crack - .75 cam, #3 cam

P2 - 20' finger crack - 4 nuts

P3 - 15' chimney - dont fall

P4 - 10' traverse under roof to a nice 20' hand jam - 4 or 5 cams from #1 - #3.5

so, basically what peter said after all

I'd also recomend Senior Citizens in Space a nice 5.8 at Private Idaho. probably better when its not raining. Check out UTRABRUTAL! a 5.7 which goes diagonally over the entrance to the missle silo near the Country.

[chucK]

From the last footholds of the chimney you can reach up get a #1 TCU in what looks like a pin-scar pod. It'll protect you almost all the way. Tell your second how you got it in, because it's tricky to get out if you don't know (both times I've used this placement my second has had trouble cleaning it).

[Peter_Puget]

Contradict me!?!? Off to spray we go!Maybe Adams will be my coach.

Has anyone been to the Shady Lane area? Wondering whats it is like.

Also there is a fun arching 5.9 crack on the right side of the Mid Wall that is fun. (Probably wet this time of year) If only it was twice as long.

[rayborbon]

Gorilla My Dreams- Good climbing. Dont know about the bolts meaning why they are there (rope cutting if you fall?). If you dont want to clip them bring several 3" and 2" pieces. Approach Via GNS. We did it with gear I was gumby following my first year so details are hazy

[DCramer]

Ray –

I put those bolts in and perhaps I made an error. God knows I have made a bunch over the years. So I have a proposition for you.

You go lead the route from the level of the first bolt on using only 2”-3” pieces. I’ll even let you throw in one 4” piece. The only restrictions are that you can’t preview the route in anyway before climbing it and all pieces on your rack have to be standard pieces that would be normally found on an average rack and you can't clip any bolts. If you accept this challenge and actually go to the route with the intent of ascending it I’ll donate $25.00 to buy beers at the next pub club even if you decide not to climb it with the restrictions of this proposition. If you actually climb it using only the 2”-3” rack with one 4” piece, I’ll throw in an additional $25.00. If after succeeding you think it is adequately protected (ie “G” rated) I’ll contribute another $25.00. If you can get Erik to agree with the “G” rating the pot will increase another $25.00. I say Erik because he is one of the few regulars here I know. So the total pot comes to $100.00 for a future Pub Club.

If Erik agrees to hold the cash, he can pick it up at my house next time he comes through Seattle. Offer expires after 60 days.

Darryl

[DCramer]

Oh yea we need to have a witness we both agree to.

[erik]

geez i just might be up for that darryl.....60 daze is that from today or when the challenge is accepted......????

enjoyerik

[rayborbon]

quote:

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Originally posted by DCramer:

Ray –

I put those bolts in and perhaps I made an error. God knows I have made a bunch over the years. So I have a proposition for you.

You go lead the route from the level of the first bolt on using only 2”-3” pieces. I’ll even let you throw in one 4” piece. The only restrictions are that you can’t preview the route in anyway before climbing it and all pieces on your rack have to be standard pieces that would be normally found on an average rack and you can't clip any bolts. If you accept this challenge and actually go to the route with the intent of ascending it I’ll donate $25.00 to buy beers at the next pub club even if you decide not to climb it with the restrictions of this proposition. If you actually climb it using only the 2”-3” rack with one 4” piece, I’ll throw in an additional $25.00. If after succeeding you think it is adequately protected (ie “G” rated) I’ll contribute another $25.00. If you can get Erik to agree with the “G” rating the pot will increase another $25.00. I say Erik because he is one of the few regulars here I know. So the total pot comes to $100.00 for a future Pub Club.

If Erik agrees to hold the cash, he can pick it up at my house next time he comes through Seattle. Offer expires after 60 days.

Darryl

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Hello Daryl,

YOu seem very defensive. I did indeed follow this and the guy who lead it did not clip th bolts. He used 2 #3s and 2 #4s.

I dont care about the route nor was I brining any controversy. Since you decide to dare me to lead it I just might. If I do I will chope them bad boys.

How do you like that for a dare?

[rayborbon]

quote:

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Originally posted by DCramer:

Oh yea we need to have a witness we both agree to.

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Witness this

[DCramer]

Erik - 60 Days from today.

Ray - Glad your game. By the way at the Pub Club you had better drink fast as I intend to drink most of the $100.00!

[erik]

may i use a mammut super safe rope?!?!!?!?

[rayborbon]

Daryl,I am not betting. But if I go up there and lead it I will mail those bolts and hangers to you in the mail. I think your address is on the book right?

I dont climb for bets. I dont climb for anyone but me

[DCramer]

Sorry Erik the proposition is to Ray only:

"Ray –

I put those bolts in and perhaps I made an error. God knows I have made a bunch over the years. So I have a proposition for you."

[rayborbon]

quote:

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Originally posted by DCramer:

Sorry Erik the proposition is to Ray only:"Ray –I put those bolts in and perhaps I made an error. God knows I have made a bunch over the years. So I have a proposition for you."

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Hello Daryl,

You're funny. You act like it is some big deal to lead it. Not like it is a testpiece or something. If you get a present in the mail this summer guess who it would be from. Hasta I dont want your money. I make enough.

Your friend,

[erik]

i cannot believe ray is turning down free beer!!!!!!!

and darryl, i dont think anyone is capable of out drinking ray......near impossible....

frat boyz have tried, bikers have tried and dainty little women have tried....

can you say stomach pump?????

[DCramer]

Offer rejected, offer rescinded.

Ray -

I don't have any hard feelings just a bit of boredom at work. If you take them down, you don't need to send them too me. But if you do remove them don't chop - pull and fill the holes.

Erik -

You're probably right I am not much of a drinker. But I have lost 22lbs since 1/1/02 so I have alot of room somewhere.

Darryl

[rayborbon]

I dont want your bolts. Just thought you had hard feelings. Some people do before they meet me. I dont care to climb it again. More stuff I have not done there still..

If I lost 22 lbs I would crank city park free!

[Peter_Puget]

Ray, I'll pay the postage on that bad boy! and buy you many beers...