Going to try ice climbing in Banff

[Thrasher]

So what kind of tools so you recommend? I just want to climb waterfalls and not that alpine boring stuff. Banff looks like the best place to start and I have some experienced friends going soon.

I was thinking about getting some grivel machines or quarks. What's the deal do you always have to wait 4 days for a membership to post here? I have some M10s for the feet...

Ken H. Scott

[Dru]

Quarks kick ass. Or some of those Cobras. Or Axars, or anything else with a big curve near the head.

Be prepared for big line ups in Banff on not much moderate ice yet if you are going there now. it was +15 C on saturday that is very warm, rock climbing weather.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Quarks, Cobras, Machines they are all good.

[Lambone]

Cobra, cobra, cobra...it's all about the carbon fiber baby. Worth the extra $

[EddieE]

If you want a tool with heavier swing weight, get the Quarks. Cobras are good for more delicate stuff. IMHO - you aim and start the swing with the Quarks, and they'll set themselves. Cobras need more 'follow through'. There are advantages to both, but have two different feels. I prefer Quarks in fat, plastic ice...but Cobras where you have to pay more attention to where and how hard you swing.

[todd]

alpine boring stuff?!!! anyway, having used both the machines and the cobras very extensively, id say go with the cobras, especially since youre relatively new to the game, and since i personnaly feel that the cobras are the best tool around. ive never had more secure-feeling sticks - with the carbon fiber, there is almost no vibration. the cobras also have that hourglass grip, which some people say makes you pump out faster - but those people have never owned a pair of cobras - because the effect is just the opposite. the grips are a little bigger, but once you get used to them you can align youre hands in the grooves so that you always swing straight, even when you have severe noodle-arm. in fact, you might not even like the machines and the quarks - theyre kind of unstable and awkward to swing on lower angle ice, which is mainly what youll be doing if this is your first season. the machines are probably the tool to have for mixed stuff, since the picks are bomber. however i think theyre too beefy and i needed to file the hell out of mine to get them to stick and remove the way i like. that sucks. black diamond picks are pretty much perfect out of the package. and should you ever realize that alpine stuff (especially in the rockies during winter) is about the farthest sort of climbing from "boring", youre cobras can take you there too, whereas i find the machines and quarks to be a bit too funky for the alpine. basically, my thoughts are: if you can afford a pair of wands like the cobras, why even consider anything else? have fun out there!

cheers, todd

[dan_e]

Cobras are nice, worth the $$$, but Black Prophets are nice too, they don't have the curve which is nice for clearing bulges and topping out.

BTW - There is or maybe was a nice pair of used Black Prophets down at Second Ascent when I was there last weekend.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by freeclimb9:

I've gotten word that BD has stopped making the Black Prophet.

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It wasnt selling enough and they didnt want to call it the Non Prophet.

[Dru]

Here's a Nov 22 shot off Gadd's website (www.gravsports.com) of RIPTIDE (WI 6+/7) for motivational purposes. Supposedly if you squint or have a high-res monitor you can see 2 Slovenians wallowing through the freshies in the approach.

http://www.gravsports.com/Ice%20Pages%20Folder/Route%20Descriptions/riptide_nov.htm

For some reason it wouldn't link as an image - b@st@rd Gadd probably has it protected against homeys like us so you will have to visit the site to check it.

[ 11-22-2001: Message edited by: Dru ]

[freeclimb9]

I've gotten word that BD has stopped making the Black Prophet.

[Thrasher]

Thanks I am going right after Xmas. I got some Cobras and plan on doing Carlsberg Column and the Weeping Wall with my buds.