Top 10 Hard Alpine Free-Climbs in WA State

[lunger]

good call Noah, that climb is longer and more difficult than the NW Face of SEWS, has interesting and aesthetic climbing, and in a more alpine setting than some others listed. Not to disparage the list, I think it's a good one.

 

so, propose

 

25. Big Kangaroo South Face Right (Kearney-Thomas) .11-

 

[sandalsclub]

Alpine is anything I can't approach in my sandals.

[Blake]

Sol, cool idea for a thread. I think Darin is correct in mentioning that places like Colo, Calif, etc, with lots of accessible alpine granite and good weather still don't have heaps of 5.12 and 5.13 climbs on every other peak. It takes a certain rare combo of things to fall into place for that type of setting. Heck, all of the walls and peaks in Red Rocks only have a few trad pitches harder than 5.12-

 

Ditto that for Dragonfly; high potential but lots of lichen and crumbly feet. Has nothing on CBR west face.

 

W, You should ask Forest about Pangaea... anyone climb it or know where it even is on the spire?

 

 

 

Oh yeah, and Hyperspace is not Alpine but it is a great route! I can't believe all these people don't like it. I didn't do the original start, just the RPM to the base of the psychopath, but thought it was fun, physical, and safe.

 

 

 

The South Face of Cathedral Peak has been free climbed, not sure if it is in the 5.11 range or what...

[spionin]

hi all,

i don't even belong on this thread, but i've got a question...

 

i've got a slovenian visiting in late june-early july for a few weeks, who's intent to climb hard. i'm not really an alpinist and my shit is weak, but he leads about 5.12d sport (on chossy polished limestone), 5.11a alpine and 5.10d yosemite trad.

 

i don't even know where to begin as far as recommending routes for him. can anyone recommend a menu? here's a list of routes from high sierra he's been looking at (so perhaps something comparable?):

- Harding route, Mt. Conness

- Dark star, Temple Crag

- Harding route, Keeler Needle

- Positive vibrations, Incredible Hulk

 

 

thanks in advance!!

-veronika

[Blake]

I think for "done in a day" alpine rock climbs that an .11a leader would enjoy, especially if they aren't super keen on less-than-perfect stone, you might suggest either the West Face of Colchuck Balanced Rock (With a move of AO at the crux) or else Rebel Yell on Chianti Spire. Both approaches would have snow until Mid-July at least, but nothing too steep. Probably wont require any crampons or ice axe.

[spionin]

especially if they aren't super keen on less-than-perfect stone

that obvious, huh?

yeah, the exact request i got was for "granite as clean and polished as in yosemite".

thanks much!

[Pete_H]

I'd have him focus on WA Pass and Stuart Range / Enchantments then: Hyperspace on SCW, CBR, N Ridge of Stuart, Lib Crack if he doesn't mind some aid, Boving Routes on South Early and North Early, and the Passenger on South.

[mountainmatt]

I agree with Blake and Pete. Most of the routes that are going to be clean will be in N&P. I wouldn't say any of them will be as clean and polished as Yosemite though...

 

If he doesn't mind leaving the alpine, just send him to Index. Plenty of good, long hard climbs there.

 

.

[matt_warfield]

I agree as well. Cascades alpine has a whole different flavor than the High Sierra and Yosemite. For clean hard climbing, cragging may suit him better.

[Off_White]

The best place in Washington to find "granite as clean and polished as in yosemite" is in Squamish. The Sierra Nevada has generally better rock, but the Cascades have better ambiance. Plus, pulling hard at 8000' is more fun than doing the same at 13,000 for a flatlander like me.

[Pilchuck71]

The best place in Washington to find "granite as clean and polished as in yosemite" is in Squamish.

 

Squire Creek Wall?

[spionin]

thanks a lot everyone, really appreciate the advice!

[G-spotter]

If you want him to have a real Cascades climbing experience take him up the DNB on Bear