First Ascent Clothing - New choices

[Dane]

"Anyways my guess is that the price of Eddie Bauer Peak XV is low because the fabrics are cheap and of lower quality"

 

Your guess is incorrect. Nothing cheap or low qiua;ity about the Peak XV besides the price if you buy it on sale.

[SloBo]

For sure it has a great value for the price but if we just compare it qualitywise, the fabric it looks worse than in the jacket I compared it against. You can see the difference with your plain eye and easily.

 

In general, a similar fabric with higher yarn count and density is thought to have higher quality. Of course, loose fabric may serve some purpose, like being more breathable, but I don't believe that fabric is even close to the limit where these issues start to arise.

 

Of course, this only explains a portion of the price. Another factor is probably the salaries and working conditions of the actual workers and then there is branding and company strategy too.

 

Yes, it for sure is great, but if I had to find one thing to nag about, the fabric could probably be it.

[Dane]

I am not a huge fan of EB in general. But in the last 3 years I have had many if not most of the better brand name insulated climbing jackets in my hands if not on my back and made detailed comparisons between them, both down versions and the synthetics.

 

I haven't seen the lack of quality in the XV (materials used or workmanship) that you seem to have.

 

You can make any comparison you like...as I have with over a dozen jackets with the same intended use. The EB XV and lighter version, the Guide jacket can hold their own in any comparison of quality, workmanship and materials used.

 

This was my first look. I have not changed my mind on the VX since that was written.

 

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/02/belay-jacketsthe-heavy-weights.html

 

In fact on review and more jackets used since I still am impressed enough to write this.

 

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/11/eddie-bauer-peak-xv-jacket.html

 

I suspect the problem is you don't know what the quality fabrics that are required for lwt climbing gear and are using the XV as a "walk about town" jacket. Any number of jackets of lesser quality would be more appropriate there instead of a high tech, lwt, jacket inteneded for 7K meter peaks.

 

Your other choice, the Marmot 8000m jacket, weights 18oz heavier on an actual scale than the XV. So much for the published weights.

 

Wild Things, Belay Jacket, 34oz pre 2010 / 963g

Eddie Bauer XV 38.5oz / 1091g

MEC Tango, 31.7oz / 898g

Patagonia DAS (new) 36.9oz / 1046g

Arcteryx Duelly 28oz / 794g

Narrona Lyngen 26oz / 737g

Narrona Trollveggen 37.5oz / 1063g

Arcteryx Atom Hoody SV 19.0 oz / 538g

Mountain Hardwear Compressor Hoody Primaloft 1 19.8oz / 561g

Mammut Ambler 47.2oz / 1338g

 

 

[bearbreeder]

 

i own and use some EB FA ... it literally is a take it back for any reason and well take care of it guarantee ... even after 20 years+

 

i find the "quality" functionally no worse or better than most other outdoor brands

 

 

[billcoe]

Based on Danes Review, I bought 2 XV's for gifts 2 Christmas's ago.

 

One gets worn daily all winter by my non-climbing brother around town. He'll show up in 45 degree rain after riding mass transit wearing the thing. He takes it everywhere and I rarely see him without it when it's under 40 degrees. Coldest place it's been may have been Antarctica as he ran a Marathon down there. He LOVES this jacket.

 

My son, a climber, showed up this Christmas after driving back from college with his buddies in his flip flops and shorts. I flick him some crap about this state of undress (I pitched the classic: "What happens if you have car trouble?") and he says "Oh no big deal, we came across the blue mountains and had to chain up. The other guys really didn't know how to put chains on so I did it. Then as we were just finishing up some woman pulled up and asked if we'd put chains on her car so I did that one, and as I was finishing that, a real old woman pulled up and was almost pleading for me to do her car....I would have said no but she needed the help, so I did." He lights up. "She gave me $40 bucks too!.... I told her no way I was taking money to help her like 3 times and she kept insisting and you know I needed it so I happily gave in and took it." Last I heard, he loves his XV too, but I'll admit that unlike here, he lives where it's real cold, and I think he only wears it when he's in the Mtns and it butt-assed cold. I've never seen him wear it. I suspect he values it too much to wear it casually, and he likes to dress minimally to condition his body for the cold.

[Simas]

Hey guys,

 

I've been reading a lot lately on the Eddie Bauer Peak XV parka, and noticed this thread. I suspect that some of you have different models of this jacket so it would be very interesting to hear your opinion.

 

I've found this review on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/review/R39IS4CDDYDQ1X/ref=cm_cr_dp_title?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B0049C8YL2&channel=detail-glance&nodeID=1036592&store=apparel, which essentialy is saying that the new model of the jacket has less down than the first one. I started to look for the truth. Current jacket has:

 

Size Small - 10.08 ounces

 

Size Medium - 10.5 ounces

 

Size Large - 11.07 ounces

 

Size X-Large - 11.7 ounces

 

Do you think it is true that they cut on the down during the model change? Because I find it confusing about people saying that this jacket is very warm, but there's not so much down in it having 10.5oz for medium

 

 

Simas

[Water]

to my knowledge there are two version, but perhaps now a third?

The 1st was all single material. The 2nd version added reinforcements to shoulders and arms, a bit of weight, not sure the down changed though that review is irate about a perceived change.

 

as to reduction in down, the 10.5ounces is almost 300grams of down. thats not shabby. "8000m" down parkas seem in the range of 450-650 grams of down. (depending on 800/850/900fp).

 

not sure what amount is in mine but I have a 1st model as I got it at an incredible discount (about $120).. it ends up serving duty for my too-cold wife when snowcamping. But functionally I'd only use it in a greater colder range or going up rainier in the winter.

[Simas]

to my knowledge there are two version, but perhaps now a third?

The 1st was all single material. The 2nd version added reinforcements to shoulders and arms, a bit of weight, not sure the down changed though that review is irate about a perceived change.

 

as to reduction in down, the 10.5ounces is almost 300grams of down. thats not shabby. "8000m" down parkas seem in the range of 450-650 grams of down. (depending on 800/850/900fp).

 

not sure what amount is in mine but I have a 1st model as I got it at an incredible discount (about $120).. it ends up serving duty for my too-cold wife when snowcamping. But functionally I'd only use it in a greater colder range or going up rainier in the winter.

 

Thanks. What temperatures do you find it useful when camping?

Edited February 5, 2013 by Simas

[Simas]

It is said here in BPL forum that men's PEAK XV had 13oz of down (2010 production)

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=40893

 

And they change the retail price from $269 to $399, so that's pretty big increase, but decrease in down... Not so good...

Edited February 5, 2013 by Simas

[Water]

of the 2010 model i have, i would not wear it above 15 degrees. my wife, she would enjoy it any temperature 32 and below. personally i'd say its usage begins at 10degrees but more likely single digits or even lower if you were going to be moving. there are lighter down coats that will keep warm at those teen temps and just below.

 

this may be a coat to let go of worrying about unless you can find a 2010 version for sale in your size.