spionin Posted December 28, 2009 Posted December 28, 2009 Trip: leavenworth - rainbow falls/careno falls area Date: 12/26/2009 Trip Report: troy (t_rutl) and i did the right side of rainbow falls right (WI3) and careno falls left (WI4) on saturday. temperatures were in the teens for most of the day and the ice was great, although we began hearing stuff falling off rainbow as soon as the sun hit it mid-day. careno right looked awesome for anyone wanting to climb the free-standing pillar (not me, not this time) careno left was in good shape on its right side, and offered decent pro. we both had a great time, and only saw three other groups out the entire day! (troy took most of these photos - thanks dude!) Gear Notes: screws, didn't have to use any rock pro. Approach Notes: 10 min stroll from parking Quote
spionin Posted December 28, 2009 Author Posted December 28, 2009 (edited) thanks! a friend helped to jerry rig the quark pinky rests on them (drilling ensued), and they've been working quite well! i was concerned about the changed pick angle (the pinky rest causes the lower part of the tool to become pulled back further from the ice), and i do have a hard time pulling the tools out sometimes, but roj s has said that it might actually be somewhat beneficial because of the more aggressive pick angle. they certainly perform for cheap[er] alpine tools! next step - be able to lead that stuff with my Chouinard zeros! Edited December 28, 2009 by spionin Quote
t_rutl Posted December 28, 2009 Posted December 28, 2009 good getting out V! need more ice soon... Quote
lancegranite Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 I watched you two climb CL from the road. Wish I was cold and scared with you guys, so jealous! Quote
montypiton Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 My son likes the leashless setup on the Aztars he has better than the Cobras I got for him, so I'm selling the Cobras! Feels good to see his and my preferences validated!!! You look good! We added trigger-supports on ours. If you haven't tried it, you might experiment (don't do anything permanent until your sure you like it). Personally, I feel like supporting the index finger is like power steering for the pick... Quote
pope Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 Buckaroo and I did Careno Right years ago....he claims it is harder than any required climbing on Drury Falls (but I can't confirm). I led this using Chouinard rigids and Zero-X tools (the Northwall-X with a reverse curve pick and the axe with a classic pick). Those tools predate the X-15 and featured superbly balanced straight shafts that were a composite of aluminum, graphite and fiberglass. Horrible to grip that fiberglass with wool mitts! I recall fat, wet ice into which screws turned easily. I couldn't find a belay anchor anywhere. Buckaroo promised not to fall and I gave him an anchorless sitting hip belay, with feet kicked into wet snow. The same year I climbed Narada Falls and watched it collapse two hours later, producing VW-sized blocks. That was the last year I climbed ice. Quote
John Frieh Posted December 29, 2009 Posted December 29, 2009 Personally, I feel like supporting the index finger is like power steering for the pick... My experience with the trigger finger to date has been on true vertical/overhanging terrain the trigger isolates much of one's mass on their index finger tendon and it hurts. roj s has said that it might actually be somewhat beneficial because of the more aggressive pick angle Crazy kiters will say anything How is the knee? Quote
spionin Posted December 29, 2009 Author Posted December 29, 2009 I watched you two climb CL from the road. Wish I was cold and scared with you guys, so jealous! it's such an awesome cragging area, so close! next time, come by for sure! My son likes the leashless setup on the Aztars he has better than the Cobras I got for him, so I'm selling the Cobras! Feels good to see his and my preferences validated!!! You look good! We added trigger-supports on ours. If you haven't tried it, you might experiment (don't do anything permanent until your sure you like it). Personally, I feel like supporting the index finger is like power steering for the pick... piton - that's awesome to hear, thanks! i tried my friend's cobras, but i just don't dig 'em. he really got the whole rotation around the pinky rest down, but i'm really into the wrist flick. i've heard about the trigger before - it's a grivel slider, yeah? Crazy kiters will say anything How is the knee? haha. hope he's reading this. the knee is good, thanks. it's taken a beating over the past few years (busted ligaments from skiing, fractured kneecap...) - this is totally mild. Quote
spionin Posted December 29, 2009 Author Posted December 29, 2009 Buckaroo and I did Careno Right years ago....he claims it is harder than any required climbing on Drury Falls (but I can't confirm). I led this using Chouinard rigids and Zero-X tools (the Northwall-X with a reverse curve pick and the axe with a classic pick). Those tools predate the X-15 and featured superbly balanced straight shafts that were a composite of aluminum, graphite and fiberglass. Horrible to grip that fiberglass with wool mitts! I recall fat, wet ice into which screws turned easily. I couldn't find a belay anchor anywhere. Buckaroo promised not to fall and I gave him an anchorless sitting hip belay, with feet kicked into wet snow. The same year I climbed Narada Falls and watched it collapse two hours later, producing VW-sized blocks. That was the last year I climbed ice. pope, ... i've been trying to come up with a response, and have nothing on this. i'll be sure not to use wool mittens while leading ice. Quote
spionin Posted December 30, 2009 Author Posted December 30, 2009 Sweet, that last pic is badass! troy and i had a mountain glamour shot session up there. Quote
rocketparrotlet Posted December 30, 2009 Posted December 30, 2009 My son likes the leashless setup on the Aztars he has better than the Cobras I got for him, so I'm selling the Cobras! Feels good to see his and my preferences validated!!! You look good! We added trigger-supports on ours. If you haven't tried it, you might experiment (don't do anything permanent until your sure you like it). Personally, I feel like supporting the index finger is like power steering for the pick... I bought one of those pairs of modded Aztars to use leashless- I guess I'm badass now...? Those climbs look sweet! If I'm in the area again soon (and I just might be in the next couple of weeks) I would like to check them out! -Mark Quote
montypiton Posted December 30, 2009 Posted December 30, 2009 in my experience, if I'm carrying so much weight on the index finger support that it feels overloaded, I've got the support set too high on the shaft. try lowering it a quarter inch or so... and let me know how it goes... I'm perfectly open to the fact that it may not work for everyone, but it sure as blazes makes a positive difference for me! Quote
John Frieh Posted December 30, 2009 Posted December 30, 2009 I bought one of those pairs of modded Aztars to use leashless- I guess I'm badass now...? Using them is what will make you a badass. Veronika has more ice TRs than just about anyone for this year... see if you can catch her (or at least keep up) and I bet you ice skills get a lot better Quote
spionin Posted December 30, 2009 Author Posted December 30, 2009 jeez frieh - we need to add an "embarrassed" smiley option to the posting form. thanks for the kind compliment - but i should really credit my discreet partners who don't give away the reality: the sketch, the bailing, the shaking (maybe even crying a little here and there) - that's behind the pictures Quote
John Frieh Posted December 30, 2009 Posted December 30, 2009 i should really credit my discreet partners who don't give away the reality: the sketch, the bailing, the shaking (maybe even crying a little here and there) - that's behind the pictures Those are the best partners to have! I might have to try and steal them away from you Seriously though if you arent sketching/bailing/shaking/crying from time to time chances are you arent trying to push your leading ability... there is a reason I've fallen multiple times on ice (not that I'd starting recommending it) I'm just stoked there are people on cc.com such as yourself who are not only getting out but sharing it with the rest of us. It keeps the stoke alive! Quote
t_rutl Posted December 30, 2009 Posted December 30, 2009 ahh...you're so modest V...i'm still working on the complex i have from a girl outclimbing me! especially the times i'm cleaning the route and thinking to myself "wtf?! who in their right mind would climb this on the pointy end?!" it's the ballveries... great to find such awesome people to partner with from just good 'ol cc.com! Quote
denalidave Posted December 30, 2009 Posted December 30, 2009 ahh...you're so modest V...i'm still working on the complex i have from a girl outclimbing me! especially the times i'm cleaning the route and thinking to myself "wtf?! who in their right mind would climb this on the pointy end?!" it's the ballveries... great to find such awesome people to partner with from just good 'ol cc.com! Way to get after it! I have no idea if V is single, but I saw an add here on cc.com recently. One of our cc residents was looking for a rope gun, "leading WI6 a plus"... Sugar Mama Rope Gun Quote
pope Posted December 31, 2009 Posted December 31, 2009 Buckaroo and I did Careno Right years ago....he claims it is harder than any required climbing on Drury Falls (but I can't confirm). I led this using Chouinard rigids and Zero-X tools (the Northwall-X with a reverse curve pick and the axe with a classic pick). Those tools predate the X-15 and featured superbly balanced straight shafts that were a composite of aluminum, graphite and fiberglass. Horrible to grip that fiberglass with wool mitts! I recall fat, wet ice into which screws turned easily. I couldn't find a belay anchor anywhere. Buckaroo promised not to fall and I gave him an anchorless sitting hip belay, with feet kicked into wet snow. The same year I climbed Narada Falls and watched it collapse two hours later, producing VW-sized blocks. That was the last year I climbed ice. pope, ... i've been trying to come up with a response, and have nothing on this. i'll be sure not to use wool mittens while leading ice. No response necessary! Thanks for sharing your adventures, and thanks for a post that brought back memories (of being scared out of my wooly knickers). Quote
rocketparrotlet Posted December 31, 2009 Posted December 31, 2009 jeez frieh - we need to add an "embarrassed" smiley option to the posting form. thanks for the kind compliment - but i should really credit my discreet partners who don't give away the reality: the sketch, the bailing, the shaking (maybe even crying a little here and there) - that's behind the pictures If you never bail, then you won't be around very long to have the choice. We all get sketched, and a little Elvis leg never hurt anyone! -Mark Quote
marc_leclerc Posted December 31, 2009 Posted December 31, 2009 We all get sketched, and a little Elvis leg never hurt anyone! -Mark I remember this past summer I was leading a nice hand crack in the alpine and I started to put a cam in I randomly got wild Elvis Leg!!! I wasnt scared whatsoever.. or tired.... but my leg refused to stop shaking and I was like 'wtf' and my partner noticed too and thought it was hilarious. Just picture it, two dudes on a big alpine cliff and one is laughing because his leg is freaking out on him and they are talking about whyat the hell is going on..... sweet TR btw, shaking, crying and sketching is what ice is all about... Quote
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