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Trip: Eldorado - East Ridge

 

Date: 12/27/2009

 

Trip Report:

I met up with PR and a couple of his friends to climb Eldorado this weekend, taking advantage of the gorgeous weather and amenable avy forecast.

 

Unfortunately, most of my photos from the first day did not come out, and I left my camera in my tent on summit day, so I just have the following two dusk photos taken from base camp (5700 feet)... plus a few others from my partners immediately following.

 

Earlier the moon rose right over Torment, but that photo did not come out. Note Boston Peak on the right. Boston and Sahale are completely white and in full winter glory.

DSC03533.JPG

 

You can never get enough of Johannesburg. The CJ couloir route looked damned intimidating from our vantage point.

DSC03534.JPG

 

Stopping for a break at the rock island (7500 feet):

IMG_6791.JPG

 

The knife edge:

IMG_6794.JPG

 

KK enjoying views from the summit:

IMG_6800.JPG

 

The route was in good shape. Approach was a bit tough with lots of postholing up to the knees or more on sun-exposed slopes in warm temps. The forecast called for lots of gusting winds but they were not bad at all. The snow up to the ridge notch and on the Eldorado Glacier (and below) was also challenging. Conditions improved a bit for the traverse on the Inspiration Glacier and on the East Ridge itself. The knife-edge was in fine shape.

 

Approach 4.5 hours.

Summit day 11 hours.

 

Other than us, there was only one party of two on the mountain. :-)

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

No need for crampons. Utility of snowshoes debatable (we left them in the car). Ice axe, trekking poles needed. Rope optional

 

Approach Notes:

Trail bare until about 3500 feet, then icy and nasty in spots up until the boulder field. Lots of postholing up the boulder field with sun exposure. 5-10 inches of fresh snow with a breakable crust on much of the snow from 5700 feet until about the Inspiration Glacier. Crevasses covered.

Edited by KaskadskyjKozak
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