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[TR] Three Fingers - NE Face attempt 12/10/2009


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Posted

Trip: Three Fingers - NE Face attempt

 

Date: 12/10/2009

 

Trip Report:

So's not to further highjack Darin's TR...

 

Snow and ice conditions were nearly ideal. The main ice pitches were not quite as fat as what the FA pictures showed but still plenty of good ice. The crux pitch had some interesting pulling-over-a-bulge-onto-loose-snow bits but Ade styled it anyway.

 

It was a bit slow traveling in the valleys due to no snow cover but not too bad. Temps were brisk, 10-20F I'd say, but with zero wind it was perfect. There were numerous cool looking smears coming down the granite cirque at the head of the approach valley. I'm sure they're all gone now unfortunately.

 

We didn't summit because we were both pretty tired from lack of fitness and from the added work of the bony approach.

 

The lower cirque with cool smears:

3Finger_E_Face1.JPG

 

Ade starting the main ice:

3Finger_E_Face2.JPG

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Posted

We descended skier's right of Beckey's dotted line. It was horrible brush and cliffs, in the dark! We should have done what Ade wanted to do in the first place and descend the south-facing cliffy slope going down into the approach cirque. It would have probably required one or more rappels off trees but would have been way better than what we ended up doing.

Posted
WI4+ seem about right for the first pitch?

I'd agree. Ade, since you led it what do you think?

 

Check out the ice above Martha's Place, Yo! I was just thinking last night, I bet there is a bunch of ice in the cirque near roan wall.

Actually, some of that stuff might still be there, just a bit avi threatened now.

Posted

Nice work guys! Cool area, eh? It's hard to day trip that one, given all the variables. Even when John and I had the approach all dialed (including steps), we still left the car at 2am!

 

 

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