Plaidman Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 Anyone seen one of these? Tool is 7 inches long total. Smaller shaft is 3 1/2 inches and 1/2 inch in diameter. Handle is 1 inch in diameter. I found it at Next Adventure in Portland Oregon The guy behind the counter didn’t know what it was. He said that if I could tell him what it was, he would give it to me. I had him hand me the tool and an ice screw and the tool fit perfectly. I told him to hand it over. It sure is handy because if you don’t clean the ice out of the hollow core of the ice screw you can’t use it on the next lead. So I have a tool to perform this task And by the way these are the crampons I have been using to get it done on the ice. Old school I know but it's what I got. Plaidman Quote
Farrgo Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 Grivel makes a tool that is a v-threader, ice-corer and has a serated edge to cut tat... very handy. Quote
Plaidman Posted December 15, 2009 Author Posted December 15, 2009 (edited) Wooden sticks work well too. That is a great idea. The tool I have is Aluminum and does not weigh much. But thinking about it I am considering just getting a piece of wooden dowel and drilling a hole in it and adding a piece of cord. Even lighter! And I can make it longer for the longest screw we have. Hmmmmmm Brilliant!!!!!! Edited December 15, 2009 by Plaidman Quote
pdk Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 It sure is handy because if you don’t clean the ice out of the hollow core of the ice screw you can’t use it on the next lead. So I have a tool to perform this task So you pull that jobber out every time you clean a screw and scrub away? There are simple ways to clean screws that require no fancy tools - actually no tools are needed whatsoever, fancy or otherwise.... Quote
Plaidman Posted December 15, 2009 Author Posted December 15, 2009 (edited) Like putting the screw in your jacket against your chest? We only used this tool on multi-pitch climbs while at the belay. It just makes the process faster using the tool. We had three at the belay and everyone was able to work to get the leader going as fast as possible. With the tool you just push the ice out of the core. Edited December 15, 2009 by Plaidman Quote
Valhallas Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 Just use the v-threader and blow into the screw. Quote
G-spotter Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 It's too easy... I know you are a total n00b but have you ever tried tapping the hanger against the ice and then blowing?? Quote
Plaidman Posted December 15, 2009 Author Posted December 15, 2009 Yeah. Been there done that. I may be a noob but I am a journeyman carpenter and I use tools everyday. Just sharing another way to get it done. Sometimes those ice cores really freeze up. Quote
G-spotter Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 If you clean the core out of the screw when you take it out you won't have to fuck around with a corer at the belay. Quote
montypiton Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 thanks, Plaidman! there are probably as many "best" ways to core screws as there are avid ice-bums. I say, try 'em all and use the one that works best for YOU. my own favorite seems to vary from day to day, even hour to hour as conditions evolve... Quote
G-spotter Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 Also if you WD-40 your screws on the inside before you start climbing for the day... Quote
Valhallas Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 Also if you WD-40 your screws on the inside before you start climbing for the day... If that works, how long does it last? Quote
Rafael_H Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 That's a fantastic tool, man! I suggest a small modification. Hollow it out and install a small battery operated heating element in it. That way if you screw up and don't clean your screw by tapping immediately after taking it out, instead of spending 0.5 hour at the belay trying to pry the ice out and warming the screw under armpits, you'd be able to just melt it out wiuthout accidentally scratching the inside. The modified tool can then also be used as a hand warmer... The ultimate modification would then be to add a LED bulb and make it work as an emergency flash light! Quote
Plaidman Posted December 15, 2009 Author Posted December 15, 2009 Also if you WD-40 your screws on the inside before you start climbing for the day... Thanks you are just full of good ideas. Right on! Quote
Rafael_H Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 Also if you WD-40 your screws on the inside ... BTW, I noticed in the past that oiled screws have an ever so slight, but noticeable resitance when going in. But the idea is not empty. I wonder if there is smth to improve penetration. Alcohol? Nowadays so much is possible with chem advances. Quote
Plaidman Posted December 15, 2009 Author Posted December 15, 2009 That's a fantastic tool, man! I suggest a small modification. Hollow it out and install a small battery operated heating element in it. That way if you screw up and don't clean your screw by tapping immediately after taking it out, instead of spending 0.5 hour at the belay trying to pry the ice out and warming the screw under armpits, you'd be able to just melt it out wiuthout accidentally scratching the inside. The modified tool can then also be used as a hand warmer... The ultimate modification would then be to add a LED bulb and make it work as an emergency flash light! Then maybe I could sell them and make millions of dollar and go live in Tahiti. I don't think they have ice there though. Quote
G-spotter Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 Also if you WD-40 your screws on the inside before you start climbing for the day... If that works, how long does it last? All day but not all weekend. Reapply in the motel or wherever Saturday night Quote
G-spotter Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 Also if you WD-40 your screws on the inside ... BTW, I noticed in the past that oiled screws have an ever so slight, but noticeable resitance when going in. But the idea is not empty. I wonder if there is smth to improve penetration. Alcohol? Nowadays so much is possible with chem advances. i noticed just the opposite, they go in easier too. the big drawback is when you blow the cores out you can get a whiff of the WD40. Quote
denalidave Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 That's a fantastic tool, man! I suggest a small modification. Hollow it out and install a small battery operated heating element in it. The modified tool can then also be used as a hand warmer... The ultimate modification would then be to add a LED bulb and make it work as an emergency flash light! Someone's GF or SO may want to borrow this tool for other applications. Quote
counterfeitfake Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 So this big chunk of metal you're taking with you on ice climbs can't clean out an ice screw that is more than 3.5 inches long? Quote
Valhallas Posted December 15, 2009 Posted December 15, 2009 (edited) i noticed just the opposite, they go in easier too. the big drawback is when you blow the cores out you can get a whiff of the WD40. Dunno about taste, but I love the smell of that stuff, so no problem there. Edited December 15, 2009 by Valhallas Quote
Plaidman Posted December 15, 2009 Author Posted December 15, 2009 (edited) That is correct, but 3 1/2 inches goes along way. Just ask my wife. I am thinking about using a wooden dowel from now on for longer screws. The handle on the tool is good as you can really slam the core out and then blow the rest out of the core. Edited December 15, 2009 by Plaidman Quote
coug4 Posted December 16, 2009 Posted December 16, 2009 I cringe at the sight of people using tools (of any kind, especially ice tools or crampons) on the inside of their $60 ice screws. Then notice they have to do it on every screw. All it takes is a little dust or dirt on the tool (wood, plastic, wood, whatever) or in the ice and you are scratching away. Think camera lens clean here. Just old school it - tap and blow. Works 99% of the time if you treat your gear with care. IMHO Quote
salbrecher Posted December 16, 2009 Posted December 16, 2009 Using the end of the rope (whatever is left from your tie in point) works well. Quote
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