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corvallisclimb

Oregon Pinnacles

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Spring 2011, a new season.

I'll start this thread back up.

Chris, nice report on your climb up Old Man on the Prize. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1018254/TR_Old_Man_The_Prize_5_21_2011#Post1018254

I'll pull the poison oak out at the base of the Prize again when I'm up there next weekend.

 

In your email, you asked about the gate to the Callahans. It is still open and we are still driving gear in on Saturdays and Sundays. After March 15 it can close at anytime. Usually they will start locking the gate on a weekday or lock the lower gate and leave the upper gate unlocked until everyone is out. That said last year I got locked behind the gates on a Sunday, so you never know. Your safest bet would be to drop people and gear off at the top and have someone drive back and park your rig at the lower gate. But, they will be missing the true Callahans experience of the walk in that offers a great morning warmup and for me, a badly needed spring workout.

Edited by g orton

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just gotta scare meself up some road tripers! it's a pretty big haul from pdx, right?

 

The Umpqua is drying out, eh?

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just gotta scare meself up some road tripers! it's a pretty big haul from pdx, right?

 

The Umpqua is drying out, eh?

fo'shizzle, and come next month the family floats off to virginia and i have fuck all to do!

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Thanks Greg, and thanks for the info too.

 

Sounds like we may have missed our chance to poach the famous Tyrolean? Thanks in advance for pulling the oak--I hate that stuff.

 

I'm already thinking I'll go back for a clean free ascent next year with a warmup approach via the cable traverse. We stopped and contemplated it, but neither of us pushed the other hard enough to commit to it. (Take an extra short cord to fix on the other side of the river if you plan on that and don't interpret this as suggested approach.)

 

Phuzzy, it's just over 4 hrs actual driving time from P-town. Add your gas, pee, and beer stops to this time, and go get on it. I think Radek did it in a day some time back, but I'd suggest rolling into the hot springs down the road and finding a spot near there to kip in the woods. Next day, bike on the river trail, float, or climb something else. We went to the Callahans Sunday, which is great sport cragging (sandstone!), and not that far out of your way as you've got to come back through Roseburg in any case...for more solitary adventure check out McKinley Rock (prolly not open yet though?)

 

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Tom Baumans got lots of good storys about the cable crossing. Maybe oldmanrock can chime in since he was probably there.

 

But one time BITD they were going accross the cable crossing and had the belay rope laying in the middle of the road, as the cable starts on the opposite side of the road. Needless to say a car came ripping down the highway with the belay line hanging a foot above the road. Well you all can guess what happend, some loud snaps and some pissed off drivers... a couple more stories of using aluminum carabiners on the cable are out there as well.

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Yes I remember the time Tom decided to cross using just the cable and an aluminum carabiner - He was half way across commenting on the salmon in the river he could see, when he got real quiet - He was down to half the thickness of the biner - I think 99% of his weight was on his arms the rest of the way - If he had asked I would have loaned him some of my steel biners :) - I also coming back to cable crossing after Tom, Jerry Calbaum, and I had done both Old Man and Old Woman, and saw Smoky Bear ranger across the river by his official forest service pickup - He looked at us, and we looked at him - He didn't leave, so what the hell, we crossed over, locked the cart up, and came down - His first question was "Where did you get the key ?" - Tom had a good story that covered that, so then he said "I'm here because some people told us you climbers were molesting the eagles" - We told him its the last thing in the world we would molest, and so he had done his duty, and left us without saying anything else.

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hmm, steel biners, eh? that sounds like a smart idea ;)

Now I have a reason to buy myself one of those...

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Yesturday on the Umpqua

Oldman2.jpgOld Man - Old Woman Tyrolean, Spring 2011.

Oldman_Tyrolean_Willie.jpg

Edited by g orton

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Whos been on this sweet summit?! One of the finest locations to picnic in the gorge, the Alpenjager!

 

hmm255.jpg

Lookin like a fruit on top of the Alpenjager.

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BUMP FOR THE SUMMER TIME... THE SEASON IS HERE!!!!!

 

dscf2675u.jpg

Kiwi hardman Steve Elder riding the tip of the Horse Cock 7-15-2011

 

:hcluv: :hcluv:

 

HELL YEAH, happy are those that live out their dreams, give some details:)

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Acker Rock Lookout has just come back online as a rental at $40 per night plus $9 reservation fee. The only way to reserve a night at the lookout is at recreation.gov

 

Climbing the Peregrine Traverse and/or Eagle's Dare and spending a night at the lookout is a 4-star experience.

 

For more information contact the Tiller Ranger Station: (541) 825-3201

 

S_UMPQUA.jpgBrianGilbert_GenHarmon_topcrop.jpg

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Where the hell did you find that thing?! :crazy:

looks safe to me :)

 

looks a helluva a lot like the turkey monster, but it's not, is it?

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Where the hell did you find that thing?! :crazy:

looks safe to me :)

 

looks a helluva a lot like the turkey monster, but it's not, is it?

 

Pretty sure that vile beast is the turkey. I wonder if it got new bolts last weekend? Ahem...Tyler? If not when should I show up to help. :wave:

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