corvallisclimb Posted March 26, 2011 Author Posted March 26, 2011 Alan Watts on top of Lost Hardware Pinnacle, with Dissapearing Tower on the left. Quote
g orton Posted May 24, 2011 Posted May 24, 2011 (edited) Spring 2011, a new season. I'll start this thread back up. Chris, nice report on your climb up Old Man on the Prize. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1018254/TR_Old_Man_The_Prize_5_21_2011#Post1018254 I'll pull the poison oak out at the base of the Prize again when I'm up there next weekend. In your email, you asked about the gate to the Callahans. It is still open and we are still driving gear in on Saturdays and Sundays. After March 15 it can close at anytime. Usually they will start locking the gate on a weekday or lock the lower gate and leave the upper gate unlocked until everyone is out. That said last year I got locked behind the gates on a Sunday, so you never know. Your safest bet would be to drop people and gear off at the top and have someone drive back and park your rig at the lower gate. But, they will be missing the true Callahans experience of the walk in that offers a great morning warmup and for me, a badly needed spring workout. Edited May 24, 2011 by g orton Quote
Teh Phuzzy Posted May 24, 2011 Posted May 24, 2011 just gotta scare meself up some road tripers! it's a pretty big haul from pdx, right? The Umpqua is drying out, eh? Quote
ivan Posted May 24, 2011 Posted May 24, 2011 just gotta scare meself up some road tripers! it's a pretty big haul from pdx, right? The Umpqua is drying out, eh? fo'shizzle, and come next month the family floats off to virginia and i have fuck all to do! Quote
cja Posted May 24, 2011 Posted May 24, 2011 Thanks Greg, and thanks for the info too. Sounds like we may have missed our chance to poach the famous Tyrolean? Thanks in advance for pulling the oak--I hate that stuff. I'm already thinking I'll go back for a clean free ascent next year with a warmup approach via the cable traverse. We stopped and contemplated it, but neither of us pushed the other hard enough to commit to it. (Take an extra short cord to fix on the other side of the river if you plan on that and don't interpret this as suggested approach.) Phuzzy, it's just over 4 hrs actual driving time from P-town. Add your gas, pee, and beer stops to this time, and go get on it. I think Radek did it in a day some time back, but I'd suggest rolling into the hot springs down the road and finding a spot near there to kip in the woods. Next day, bike on the river trail, float, or climb something else. We went to the Callahans Sunday, which is great sport cragging (sandstone!), and not that far out of your way as you've got to come back through Roseburg in any case...for more solitary adventure check out McKinley Rock (prolly not open yet though?) Quote
corvallisclimb Posted May 26, 2011 Author Posted May 26, 2011 Tom Baumans got lots of good storys about the cable crossing. Maybe oldmanrock can chime in since he was probably there. But one time BITD they were going accross the cable crossing and had the belay rope laying in the middle of the road, as the cable starts on the opposite side of the road. Needless to say a car came ripping down the highway with the belay line hanging a foot above the road. Well you all can guess what happend, some loud snaps and some pissed off drivers... a couple more stories of using aluminum carabiners on the cable are out there as well. Quote
OldManRock Posted May 27, 2011 Posted May 27, 2011 Yes I remember the time Tom decided to cross using just the cable and an aluminum carabiner - He was half way across commenting on the salmon in the river he could see, when he got real quiet - He was down to half the thickness of the biner - I think 99% of his weight was on his arms the rest of the way - If he had asked I would have loaned him some of my steel biners - I also coming back to cable crossing after Tom, Jerry Calbaum, and I had done both Old Man and Old Woman, and saw Smoky Bear ranger across the river by his official forest service pickup - He looked at us, and we looked at him - He didn't leave, so what the hell, we crossed over, locked the cart up, and came down - His first question was "Where did you get the key ?" - Tom had a good story that covered that, so then he said "I'm here because some people told us you climbers were molesting the eagles" - We told him its the last thing in the world we would molest, and so he had done his duty, and left us without saying anything else. Quote
cja Posted May 27, 2011 Posted May 27, 2011 hmm, steel biners, eh? that sounds like a smart idea Now I have a reason to buy myself one of those... Quote
g orton Posted June 7, 2011 Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) Yesturday on the Umpqua Old Man - Old Woman Tyrolean, Spring 2011. Edited June 7, 2011 by g orton Quote
corvallisclimb Posted June 23, 2011 Author Posted June 23, 2011 Whos been on this sweet summit?! One of the finest locations to picnic in the gorge, the Alpenjager! Lookin like a fruit on top of the Alpenjager. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted July 16, 2011 Author Posted July 16, 2011 BUMP FOR THE SUMMER TIME... THE SEASON IS HERE!!!!! Kiwi hardman Steve Elder riding the tip of the Horse Cock 7-15-2011 :hcluv: Quote
powderhound Posted July 16, 2011 Posted July 16, 2011 BUMP FOR THE SUMMER TIME... THE SEASON IS HERE!!!!! Kiwi hardman Steve Elder riding the tip of the Horse Cock 7-15-2011 :hcluv: HELL YEAH, happy are those that live out their dreams, give some details:) Quote
corvallisclimb Posted July 20, 2011 Author Posted July 20, 2011 and the Horse Cock from above looks a little smaller... Quote
corvallisclimb Posted August 17, 2011 Author Posted August 17, 2011 sick gnar!!!! solo? Naw I had a very nice and patient belayer for this one Quote
g orton Posted August 31, 2011 Posted August 31, 2011 Acker Rock Lookout has just come back online as a rental at $40 per night plus $9 reservation fee. The only way to reserve a night at the lookout is at recreation.gov Climbing the Peregrine Traverse and/or Eagle's Dare and spending a night at the lookout is a 4-star experience. For more information contact the Tiller Ranger Station: (541) 825-3201 Quote
g orton Posted September 27, 2011 Posted September 27, 2011 (edited) Edited September 27, 2011 by g orton Quote
Teh Phuzzy Posted September 27, 2011 Posted September 27, 2011 Where the hell did you find that thing?! Quote
ivan Posted September 27, 2011 Posted September 27, 2011 Where the hell did you find that thing?! looks safe to me looks a helluva a lot like the turkey monster, but it's not, is it? Quote
KirkW Posted September 28, 2011 Posted September 28, 2011 Where the hell did you find that thing?! looks safe to me looks a helluva a lot like the turkey monster, but it's not, is it? Pretty sure that vile beast is the turkey. I wonder if it got new bolts last weekend? Ahem...Tyler? If not when should I show up to help. Quote
markd Posted December 3, 2011 Posted December 3, 2011 one of favorite places to climb in oregon just happens to have this one. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted December 4, 2011 Author Posted December 4, 2011 yeah MARKD!!!! see you in a couple weeks! Quote
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