stevetimetravlr Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Great resolution on that video. How many people go to Smith and walk under this wall and then keep on trucking past it, quaking in their boots. I have looked at it and looked at it, but always thought something like this would happen, son of a ..... Good for you guys going after it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaconben Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 Right on guys! We will have to go finish that route before it closes. I feel for the birds, but what a drag that the Picnic Lunch Wall closes. I think that only began last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 it figures... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 I doubt it will close this year the current ranger who closed it, finished his stint about two weeks ago. Â Now to add to the climbing content of the site, heres a story from the FA of the orginal Picnic Lunch Wall route. It took place at the same belay where you almost got the chop. Anyways so it was Tom Bauman and Kim Schmitz. They climbed the original start to the route and set up a hammock bivy. It was cold, I'm pretty sure it was November. So Kim wound up dropping his sleeping bag. Bob, Tom's brother was accross the river, prior to the bridge. Kim kept yelling to Bob to come get his sleeping bag and tie it on to the ropes, only to recive a solid fuck you guys! So as the night progressed Kim continued to whine and Tom couldnt get to sleep. Finnaly Tom couldnt take it any more and gave Kim his half bag and toughed it out like only an Oregon hardman could. Anyways they topped out the next day avoiding the direct finish because Kim was so desprate to get off. They both went on to be major hardmen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 I doubt it will close this year the current ranger who closed it, finished his stint about two weeks ago. Â Now to add to the climbing content of the site, heres a story from the FA of the orginal Picnic Lunch Wall route. It took place at the same belay where you almost got the chop. Anyways so it was Tom Bauman and Kim Schmitz. They climbed the original start to the route and set up a hammock bivy. It was cold, I'm pretty sure it was November. So Kim wound up dropping his sleeping bag. Bob, Tom's brother was accross the river, prior to the bridge. Kim kept yelling to Bob to come get his sleeping bag and tie it on to the ropes, only to recive a solid fuck you guys! So as the night progressed Kim continued to whine and Tom couldnt get to sleep. Finnaly Tom couldnt take it any more and gave Kim his half bag and toughed it out like only an Oregon hardman could. Anyways they topped out the next day avoiding the direct finish because Kim was so desprate to get off. They both went on to be major hardmen. Â funny story Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 I doubt it will close this year the current ranger who closed it, finished his stint about two weeks ago.  Now to add to the climbing content of the site, heres a story from the FA of the orginal Picnic Lunch Wall route. It took place at the same belay where you almost got the chop. Anyways so it was Tom Bauman and Kim Schmitz. They climbed the original start to the route and set up a hammock bivy. It was cold, I'm pretty sure it was November. So Kim wound up dropping his sleeping bag. Bob, Tom's brother was accross the river, prior to the bridge. Kim kept yelling to Bob to come get his sleeping bag and tie it on to the ropes, only to recive a solid fuck you guys! So as the night progressed Kim continued to whine and Tom couldnt get to sleep. Finnaly Tom couldnt take it any more and gave Kim his half bag and toughed it out like only an Oregon hardman could. Anyways they topped out the next day avoiding the direct finish because Kim was so desprate to get off. They both went on to be major hardmen. they didn't feel like making the jug of death?!? can't imagine why  speaking of the original start, does it have a couple of newish looking bolts on it? was trying to locate it that weekend and wasn't certain - looks like 2 odd pin scars taht still would take big ass angles leading to a long stretch of sketchy gear - there was even some chalk on the lower part, but didn't reach the obvious anchor, way the fuck up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 ya mike stoger freed the first 40ft or something to the 2nd or 3rd bolt. i heard bob mcgown freed the whole first pitch but i think it might have been on top rope. the second pitch traverse is pretty sketchy. i guess so is pitch one you could probably hit the ground from 1 or two spots. i heard it went clean but ive had to place a beak and a LA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 McGown Did lead the first pitch, it free while drunk after a wedding. 5.11d. We then finished the route the next day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Nice! Thats crazy! It would be nuts going for that first bolt free. For some reason I thought the new Watt's draft said TR. I'm not on my normal comp so I can't check. Hopefully he got it right since its FINALLY off the the press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 heres a pic looking down from mabey the second bolt i think? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 24, 2009 Author Share Posted November 24, 2009 cool - that was what i was looking at - sure wish i wasn't a damn 3 hr drive away! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 scott is on his way to solo da monkee again - woulda gone with him but he couldn't promise that we wouldn't be a slow train to the summit. i can picture him and i taking an epic amount of time on that line Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Discussion of free-climb possibilities on PLW, Smith Rock.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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