ivan Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Trip: Smiffistani Rawks - PickMyNoseFirLunchWall Date: 11/14/2009 Trip Report: 3 weeks of woe and unwellness amongst the clan - time to climb firfuksakes at last - big ben was to come W/ for a soiree up the picnic lunch wall but he done used up all his kitchen passes - big hearted like he is, at least he let me borrow his sawed angles so me n' little cam kenny could have a wack at it torrential rain and sleet on the pdx escape creep - frosty skull hollow sans fire - but a great golden sunrise, calm and clear - promising portents the upper 3 pitches weren't really ready for my young padwan, so i thought he should have his way w/ bubbas b4 having to sit around watching my dumb ass all afternoon gotta luv the plw - if ya squint yer eyes it almost looks kinda valley-ish took some yelling at him in heathen tongues, but soon i bent ole'ken to the necessity of the shortfix and i joined him as he started towards the traverse of p2 cool pitch - nice and airy - the sun set on me at the belay almost immediately though and i alternated between chain-smoking, swigging boiling hot cider n' hollering every johnny cash song i could think up to stay warm kenny finishing up - he had a fun moment when the cord on his adjustable fifi parted, dumping him a couple feet below his aiders it was too late to keep going once kenny reached the promised land - no worries, i'd figured we could just fix the first 2 pitches and finish it up sunday - left all the bullshit up there and checked the edge to make certain i didn't repeat the near-death experience i had on the monkey earlier this year - it was a smooth edge and no angle, so hey, it's gotta be good - still, i figured i had 2 ropes, so threw them both down so i'd have an oh-shit line in case jesus-hated me on the jug another cold night, but plenty of shitty wine and smokes more than made up for that, plus a gut full of ramen and pizza-bread sunday morning dawned dismal - thick clouds, cold and windy - sitting in the p-lot, shit felt dodgy - ah well, let's get to it crazy cool jug this one is - 50 meters of jugging, starting 50 feet away from the wall, dangling like a dooly-bug the whole way - half way up i began to feel The Fear - gently rotating, bouncing up n' down with each stroke, and getting blown through several degrees of arc in the stiff breeze, i felt a strange twinging in rope - holy jesus i hope all is well up there - how the hell am i still cold when i'm working this hard? a few yards out from the anchor i saw it - holy shit, again?! godammit! it's not like there was any exposure or anything so, my confidence was pretty well fawked - i didn't need the fucked up rope of course, since we had another, but kenny was understably hesitant to repeat an excercise that came plenty close to greasing me - i felt like an asshole trying to drag him up there only to freeze too in the wind while i had my fun - fuck it - back to the bottom we spent awhile at the watchign catching our breaths so to speak, losing motivation - in the end i just decided to lead bubba meself again and head on back home to hang w/ the little people - kenny kleaned dude, can The Dude die? hey, at least it wasn't another fucking beacon report, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 18, 2009 Author Share Posted November 18, 2009 red-neck olympics, day 1 [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Twas sunny and cold on saturday - little time fer screwin around... ivan, hitting his peak of warmth for the first pitch looking back from about four placements up the 2nd pitch... The fourth placement on the 2nd pitch... an old drill kit er somethin ivan getting pissed at cleaning the 2nd pitch traverse (taken on rappel - the red rope is our tagline) hangin out just before turning the roof the rap down was very monkee-ish ivan on what could have been an ill-fated juggin workout... ROUND 2 - FIGHT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Nice one! Doesn't look like a Picnic. So what do you think abraded the rope? Jugging over a edge, or the wind blowing the rope back and forth, or Kenny at Beacon 3 weeks ago, or varmits? Hairy scary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 18, 2009 Author Share Posted November 18, 2009 no clue - beaconben says he's done that jug a buncha time w/o incident - i checked the edge and bowsed the ropes down tight overnight so they wouldn't flap around - it could just be that, weighing 240 lbs buck-naked-rawk'n-w/-ma-cock-out, that i'm just too fawking heavy - next time i'll just ducktape the holy hell out of it - there's really no edge though, and the initial abrasion on the kermantle was about 2 inches long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbaker Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Did you manage the second pitch clean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 18, 2009 Author Share Posted November 18, 2009 Did you manage the second pitch clean? kenny led it, and yes, it goes easy clean now (though there's a shitty reach between 2 bolts at the start of the traverse) - or are you missing hte fact that we only climbed bubbas and bailed when i chopped the rope? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 18, 2009 Author Share Posted November 18, 2009 "the author, faithfully attempting to follow your keen advise to get his head out of his ass" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miker Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Classic!! You are hard on them ropes senor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaidman Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 it was too late to keep going once kenny reached the promised land - no worries, i'd figured we could just fix the first 2 pitches and finish it up sunday - left all the bullshit up there and checked the edge to make certain i didn't repeat the near-death experience i had on the monkey earlier this year - it was a smooth edge and no angle, so hey, it's gotta be good - still, i figured i had 2 ropes, so threw them both down so i'd have an oh-shit line in case jesus-hated me on the jug I liked this part. If you got a rope to back up the jug, USE IT! I have been making sure that the fixed line that I have been leaving has a least 4 or 5 feet of slack so it does not saw on an edge. But not so much slack that the wind can grab it and lodge it in a crack. Great job guys. Plaidman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 ya i too have done that rap/jug countless times and never had that happen. i even set up a rope swing off there and never had an issue with the ropes. was that a monster rope those things suck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Did you manage the second pitch clean? there are a few nice nut and tcu placements - yellow and blue metolius were worth their weight on the rack, and the brass offsets were very helpful. Interesting stretches between some of those crappy bolts... lots of bolts to necktie - take plenty of nuts that slide up their cables easily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 ya i too have done that rap/jug countless times and never had that happen. i even set up a rope swing off there and never had an issue with the ropes. That's what I was saying on saturday after we rapped... thought it would be a cool place for a king swing that a monster rope those things suck! nope... mammut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 (edited) I liked this part. If you got a rope to back up the jug, USE IT! I have been making sure that the fixed line that I have been leaving has a least 4 or 5 feet of slack so it does not saw on an edge. But not so much slack that the wind can grab it and lodge it in a crack. Great job guys. Plaidman wasn't so much side to side sawing action as much as it was up and down on a gritty section of tuff... Though I understand why ivan would be reluctant to take a pic of it while it was stretched and under load it still would have been a cool pic to see. the shots we have of it are only after the rope had been unweighted, so the wound recoiled. ivan said it was about two inches long.... Edited November 18, 2009 by LostCamKenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 So what do you think abraded the rope? ... varmits highly unlikely, but i did piss off enough rats this summer that if it had happened at beacon i would have looked to the rodents as the culprits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbaker Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Nice work doing it clean. Now the real question is how many total pieces did you place on the pitch? If I remember right you can get by with one nut off the belay and one cam under the roof, the rest being bolts, and one rivit? Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 Nice work doing it clean. Now the real question is how many total pieces did you place on the pitch? If I remember right you can get by with one nut off the belay and one cam under the roof, the rest being bolts, and one rivit? Alex 3 - a brass offset and 2 tcus, 1 of which should have ripped out... necktied many rivits, not just one, and the old drill kit thingy that is pictured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 and yes, the offset was right off the belay... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexbaker Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 Cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 i reccomend skipping the anchor you guys belayed at that was added for the free climb and using the next, this significantly reduces rope drag on the second pitch. way to do it clean! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 19, 2009 Author Share Posted November 19, 2009 i reccomend skipping the anchor you guys belayed at that was added for the free climb and using the next, this significantly reduces rope drag on the second pitch. way to do it clean! if yer partner's gonna be a while and ya got no belay seat though, the first anchor is at least comfortable - the key to avoiding the worst drag seems to be in not clipping any of the ancient bolts on the last traverse and through the final roof below the anchor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 i reccomend skipping the anchor you guys belayed at that was added for the free climb and using the next, this significantly reduces rope drag on the second pitch. Funny you say that... i was thinking that this afternoon as i was recollecting all that whining and crying i was doin to ivan about the damn drag. I had to use one of my jugs when i finished the pitch to pull up enough slack to fix the line for him to jug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 the first anchor is at least comfortable you could survive there without losing yer mind longer than you could at the other - the drag might have been a bit better, tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 19, 2009 Author Share Posted November 19, 2009 i'm a stain! [video:youtube] a prime place to pimp [video:youtube] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 that little camera of yours takes good video! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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