Leash Question

[chimbo]

I'm either going to buy the BD spinner leash or make my own. I haven't climbed with this setup yet and am wondering if anyone has any recommendations for the BD model or found it more useful to make their own.

[pdk]

I like it. I found it was about the same price to buy all the parts to make my own as it was to get the BD one, so I went with the slick, pre-made option.

[davidk]

I recently made my own, following instructions found on AlpineDave's website and a couple slight modifications. I omitted the swivel, and so far have been pleased with them.

 

Materials: 1/2" tubular nylon webbing (4 kn strength) from Mountain Tools (also available from Mountain Gear, and maybe some small shops, but not REI anymore), 1/8" shock cord (from REI), 1" heat shrink tubing (optional, hardware stores), two Metolius full-strength mini biners = around $17 total

 

I used the heat shrink over the knots (to reduce abrasion/loosening, make it look a little less home-made, and help hold the biners in place). Heat shrink tubing is pretty expensive though, and I had to buy three feet so I could use about 5 inches worth.

 

Comparing my setup to the BD leash, which I have played with in stores: I sized mine to allow full reach (I'm 6'3", +2 ape), whereas the BD leash does not allow that for me. One could add a girth hitched sling to it to extend it's reach, but then why not make your own custom size? An employee at FF said the BD leash is shorter because it is primarily aimed at alpine climbing, but I felt like the length and resistance from the elastic stretch might be limiting. Otherwise, the BD rig is a polished, professional piece. I know Dane loves his BD umbilicals, and that's saying something.

[G-spotter]

So if you didn't use a swivel dont you end up with leashes wrapped around each other and clusterfucked if you start to do stuff like match or switch tools?

[davidk]

I don't do too much matching/tool switching, but yes that could be a problem. But I could always add a swivel if I wanted to. And I'm ok with having a couple twists in my leashes per pitch - I can just untangle at belays, which is really not as much of a hassle as it might sound.

[Dane]

I've been making my own for years...lots of years.

 

Alpine Dave's website gives you the details to do it right.

 

Originally I was not a big fan of the swivel. But after all my partners raved about my prototypes which I loaned out (and which they kept trying to steal) I finally gave them a fair test drive myself.

 

All of us have used home made ones and several versions of the Grivel units in the past. Most everyone I climb with now are using the BD unit. The other units have been retired.

 

Like PDK you can easily make your own for $50 or less with no swivel. Which I don't find an issue with and match and switch tools all the time. No big deal. But the swivel is THE ONE big advantage all my partners loved in the BD versions. Less hassle, leashless and umbilicals. It is a good combo. You can just buy the BD unit if it fits you and you get a full strength and really nice swivel. FYI...imo better the umbilicals too short than too long. If you happen to plop off onto your umbilicals (or need to hang) and you can't get back to your tools it makes for a realllllly long day

 

Both of the BD protoype units I have..are too long for anyone under 6'1" and a normal ape index. I was told the new ones have addressed that issue but I have yet to play with a new pair so don't know more. (edit: have the new ones now (11/09) and they are fine...and still on the long side of the ape index)

 

Also worth noting if you are going to kak out $50..the webbing BD is using is hydrophobic and the mini biners were designed to fit almost every tool top and bottom clips and both are umbilical specific. That alone was worth the $50 to me. And enough so, that even my cheap ass partners coughed up $50 for their own "spiner" units. Once that happened if was obvious I had missed the clue bus, again

 

[montypiton]

been makin' my own since the late '70s, & haven't found a swivel to be all that important. I'm cheap, so all I do is thread shock-cord through a length of web a foot or two longer than my ape index, and girth hitch that to my harness. To attach ice-tools, I just use the smallest normal carabiners I own, currently Camp Nanos. Since I already own the carabiners, my total investment is usually <$10. I'd have a hard time forkin' over $40+ for an item that accomplishes essentially the same function. In my experience, the matching/switching kluster doesn't become an issue until you get into the modern upper-mixed grades (where, as a broken down old fart, I don't spend much time). I haven't found it to be an issue on grade VI waterfall climbs...

Edited November 23, 2009 by montypiton

[davidk]

an update on my setup described above: with my umbilicals clipped to a loop of 4mm cord through the spike on my Quarks, a single side of the umbilical and one tool caught me in a 4 foot fall when my right tool popped trying to overcome a bulge. The tool that held was sunk about 1.5+ inches in good ice at the lip of the bulge. I had a bomber 16cm screw at my feet on the short step, so I wasn't counting on my leashes to catch me, but it is nice to know that it can hold a little slip.

 

Resulting damage: loop of 4mm cord (tied with double fishermans) grew about two inches from the knot tightening and maybe stretch. Will replace. Grip rest on Quark got yanked so that it rotated in towards the grip, and got pierced by the front of the spike that it conceals. Will inspect and maybe replace. On the umbilicals themselves, the knots on side involved tightened up, so it is now a bit longer than the other side. I'll take a close look at the webbing, but I might just scrap it and make a new set. (And Dane, you're right, I might need to make the next set a bit shorter. Fortunately I had my other tool to help retrieve the stuck one )

 

Damage to me: none

Edited November 23, 2009 by davidk

[Dane]

Great story David!