Moolack

[KirkW]

Nothing important was in the original posts and after posting them I realized that I was arguing with a troll which actually makes me a moron.

 

I was looking for info about moolack and made a comment about the grid bolting at Flagstone since I had just got back from there. Was a little disgusted about the bolts and was just spraying that I thought they should go. I settled down and decided that I had better things to do. I've got a big mouth sometimes and the internet isn't exactly a difficult place to stand on my soapbox anonymously and spew. I'd rather not have to try to defend my own ramblings sometimes. Weak, I know, but delete them I did. Gone forever and even I don't really remember what I wrote.

 

However that's all beside the point. I was just looking for info about Moolack and I got it. Thank you to those that have offered me beta. Looking forward to checking it out. With or without the group hug.

[justinp]

However that's all beside the point. I was just looking for info about Moolack and I got it. Thank you to those that have offered me beta. Looking forward to checking it out. With or without the group hug.

 

Let me know, I may join u and see what all the hoop la is all about.

[Checat]

Its worth the hype. Be ready for things that make areas like that fun though: longish drive, steep approach, short days, bad weather. Isn't Oregon climbing fun?

 

Oh yeah and lots of moss

 

 

A taste. All my real photos of the place are stitches, panoramics and line topos that are too large to upload onto this website, so I put up what would fit.

 

Edited November 13, 2009 by Checat

[Checat]

Heres some Yin (or is Flagstone the yin and the Lack is the Yang? Sort out which is which Shapp)

 

Edited November 14, 2009 by Checat

[mtep]

its no secret go find it and add some anchors for me.

 

Where specifically do you see a need for anchors at that particular crag? Every route that gets done there has been done sans fixed anchors and people repeat most of them frequently. Building there own anchors every time with out a problem.

 

Or were you just trolling?

[el jefe]

those photos are seriously underwhelming.

[Checat]

el jefe

fair enough. 90% of the photos I have are too big a files to upload and in reality I'm trying to reserve the best stuff for the guidebook.

 

most lackers out there don't really want to see any photos of the place disclosed but there is a time and place for everything

 

so your saying these photos pale in comparison to the Zero photos that you've submitted to this site?

 

[crimper]

looks like a taller version of ozone or broughton or any other standard issue basalt crag around portland. what's the big deal? simply that it hasn't been bolted?

[Checat]

As I tried to say to you over the phone...it is not like ozone or broughton. Its rock is different. Its not basalt. It doesn't climb like those areas, its nothing like those areas... Its easy to make those assumptions but trust me, its unlike your standard issue Oregon Crag.

 

You don't have to think its a big deal, many would be quite content for non-believers to continue thinking its a mossy choss pile, but unless you've been to the place you really shouldn't put comparisons out there

[Julian]

I got to go to Moolack this summer with two regulars, we put up what might have been a first ascent (or at least first lead ascent, the route was probably toproped before we got on it). It's definitely a different style of rock than any other crag I've climbed at in Oregon, and of a very high quality. It was almost like climbing granite. A lot of it was mossy sure (and the lower half of the crack we climbed was incredibly dirty, it felt like adventure climbing), but higher up things were significantly cleaner, with steep hard climbing (we did an overhanging offwidth that led to a flaring chimney).

 

 

And yep, that's a #6 Camalot hanging off his harness. It got placed too, so if you are looking for somewhere to bust out your big gear Moolack certainly fits the bill.

[corvallisclimb]

its no secret go find it and add some anchors for me.

 

Where specifically do you see a need for anchors at that particular crag? Every route that gets done there has been done sans fixed anchors and people repeat most of them frequently. Building there own anchors every time with out a problem.

 

Or were you just trolling?

 

i get scared when there are no bolts

[Checat]

Julian, you used big bros yet? All thats needed is the gold and blue, but all size of bros are certainly helpful. Also if you can still track one down on e-bay or have one from when BD still put them out: a 4.5 Camalot is super helpful on a lot of routes out there and you'd surprised at how many lines you can leave the #5 and #6 at the car for if you do have a 4.5 But don't forget the thin brass and ball-nutz(good pair of brass ones help too...) as well.

 

[LostCamKenny]

Nothing important was in the original posts and after posting them I realized that I was arguing with a troll which actually makes me a moron.

 

I was looking for info about moolack and made a comment about the grid bolting at Flagstone since I had just got back from there. Was a little disgusted about the bolts and was just spraying that I thought they should go. I settled down and decided that I had better things to do. I've got a big mouth sometimes and the internet isn't exactly a difficult place to stand on my soapbox anonymously and spew. I'd rather not have to try to defend my own ramblings sometimes. Weak, I know, but delete them I did. Gone forever and even I don't really remember what I wrote.

 

However that's all beside the point. I was just looking for info about Moolack and I got it. Thank you to those that have offered me beta. Looking forward to checking it out. With or without the group hug.

 

wow, sorry i missed this one when it was hot... i love a good roast especially when shapp is sounding off.

And deleting posts = true cowardice

[shapp]

Hey Lostcam, I wasn't the potential Troll he was arguing with. Thanks for posting some great insights to the discussion? Have you climbed at either location?

Edited November 20, 2009 by shapp

[kevbone]

true cowardice

 

I thought the "ignore function" was true cowardice.

[el jefe]

Hey Lostcam, I wasn't the potential Troll he was arguing with. Thanks for posting some great insights to the discussion? Have you climbed at either location?

 

so atreides comes on this website spewing about how he's going to chop routes at flagstone, i flame him for it, now i'm the "troll"? or "potential troll" depending upon whether one agrees with moron number 1 (atreides) or moron number 2 (shapp). really, people, if anyone here is a troll then it is atreides, as he is the one who put the bait in the water, while i'm the "mullet" (some really old, pre-internet slang for you) since i'm the fish who took the bait.

 

and what is shapp in this scenario? answer: clueless as usual.

 

 

[shapp]

I wasn't callinig you a "Troll", just using Atreides language. I recon clueless has a different defenition to the one I am accoustomed to, if it refers to someone that has climbed 80% of the pre-Tvedt routes at Flagstone, and that actually knows where Moolack is and has climbed there, or that has provided beta on a whole shit load of oregon crags to folks that have PMed me over the years inquiring about interesting shit that I happen to have a giant binder on, than I would resemble that comment. Thank-you to the TR-less Chief

 

On calling me a moron, I may indeed resemble number 1 if you refer to such classicas as Dolt Tower, but I must take exception if you refer to #2, I maybe mildly retarded but at least have the social skills of a 13 year old (and can accurately read and follow a 7.5 minute topo):

 

mo·ron (môrn, mr-)

n.

1. A stupid person; a dolt.

2. Psychology A person of mild mental retardation having a mental age of from 7 to 12 years and generally having communication and social skills enabling some degree of academic or vocational education. The term belongs to a classification system no longer in use and is now considered offensive.

 

Based on such slander and being that you are a PDXer, I can only assume you either pleasure your self while perusing the Bolf and Reuf guide or else have had some back-alley actual experience with one or both of them simultaneously? Not that I would care about your Reuf, Bolf, or goat leanings, but just curious of your motivation. Of course one should not rule out the possibility that Kenny's lost cam was left in some dark nether region of The TR-less Chiefs backside, and that he indeed likes it?

Edited November 20, 2009 by shapp

[el jefe]

what's the deal with trip reports? do they prove something important in this forum?

[LostCamKenny]

Hey Lostcam, I wasn't the potential Troll he was arguing with. Thanks for posting some great insights to the discussion? Have you climbed at either location?

 

did i ever say you were the potential troll, shapp? i merely was interested because when you get going on a thread you tend to go on with a bit of conviction, no? i enjoy hearing strong beliefs and opinions and you certainly have them.

 

flagstone is the only one of the two i've been to - wasn't impressed... my friend david took me there and he knew a bit about the place. to me it felt like the gorge ozone, dropzone, twilight zone or any other of the shitty crags in or around portland. I'd rather drive clear back over to Anthony lake to climb over there - at least that's granite. btw, shapp, you still wanna buy me a beer to call you an a-hole proper

[el jefe]

all right, so i'll take back calling you a moron and clueless, shapp. i was okay with atreides calling me a troll because i thought it funny that he, the real troll, would be calling anyone else a troll, but i was irritated by you referring to me as a "potential troll" because i'm not a troll. unlike others who post here, i don't come on this site talking about how i'm going to chop routes or how my ethics are purer than someone else's because i wear a bandanna on my head while climbing and hang from #3 camalots rather than bolts.

 

so let me say again, i apologize for offending you and take back what i said.

[shapp]

No offense taken, just another opportunity to whip it up . I am actually a pretty laid back dude, although excitable, loud and sometimes very obnoxious. I am always up for beer. This is a serious offer, Kenny, let me know when you might want to head back out that way if you need a partner.

Shapp

 

p.s. I wear a helmet, and I hang from bolts and cams, but usually not a #3 cause there is no way I would be falling out of a hand crack. However, I do not abide hanging from bolts placed right by bomber natural gear placements, in that I cannot budge.

Edited November 20, 2009 by shapp

[shapp]

More talk on Flagstone in the Moolack Thread, maybe it should be renamed Yin-Yang

 

 

“flagstone is the only one of the two i've been to - wasn't impressed” This is a very strange opinion to me. Lets put aside the bolt placement issue for a moment and focus on the rock. I have visited a lot of crags in Oregon, and as far as the actual stone quality goes, Flagstone has to be up near the top, bullet and compact with interesting holds and features. I can’t really think of any other place in Oregon that is very similar rock type wise. It feels to the touch like a granite that lost its quartz. It is very similar in texture to the granite in Darrington. A lot of the routes are pretty unique, the Hydrotube, some of the Fralick’s routes, in position and climbing style. There aren’t a whole lot of friction slabs to be had in Oregon. And the steeper routes at flag aren’t the nubbin pulls at smith. There are a lot of underclings and such.

 

On a side note, this is an interesting thread in that Flagstone and Moolack are being discussed together. They are not all that far off in actual distance from one another. In fact they are almost exactly 10.0 miles apart as the crow flies. And as far as development standards go, probably represent the absolute extreme for Oregon crags. Parts of Flagstone probably have more bolts per square foot than any other place in the state, will Moolack might represent the only no-bolt crag in the entire state. I can’t really think of any that have absolutely no belay bolts at all.

Edited November 20, 2009 by shapp

[corvallisclimb]

i thought i was the only one called out for trolling on this thread? like this

 

just got back from the moolack the battery on my bosch is dead and wrist is sore from beating in those huge glueins wich are a pain in the ass to chop.

 

now thats a troll

[el jefe]

any bolts placed now at moolack will be covered in moss by spring and you'll need a metal detector to find them.

 

[corvallisclimb]

any bolts placed now at moolack will be covered in moss by spring and you'll need a metal detector to find them.

 

:lmao: natures version of bolt chopping