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Bunchof bullshit that face is closed.

Personal opinions are great; everyone has one and they're held with varying degrees of emotion and belief and that's great. It becomes both problematic and counterproductive, however, when we can't distinguish between opinion and fact or between subjective reality (your opinion) and objective reality (law and policy). Operating solely from the former while denying the latter is the surest way I know of insuring you aren't going to get what you want. Might as well just bang your head against the nearest chunk of basalt because you'll never get taken seriously.


I have my own personal opinions around the necessity of the various closures, but those opinions are entirely irrelevant in any legal or policy discussion unless I can back them up with facts. Wishing, as attractive as it is, just isn't how law and policy work.

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With a lot of various help, and before all the medical crises in the family of the last thirty months, I'd been trying to put a route up above Bill's 'Boardwalk' tentatively called 'Menopause'. It goes up two and a half rope lengths and through three roofs to it's high point at the lip of the third and largest roof. There's a headwall above that with either three or four more smaller roofs on it before topping out.


There's also a line (of bolts) between it and the 'Pacific Rim' anchor that looks like they only go up a pitch, but of course I could be wrong on that. In general as it stands now, everything on the face forming the left side of the lower great arch is fair game; basically straight above and left of 'Pacific Rim'.




The blue outline is the upper headwall defined by the true corner on the left, the roofs below, and the left edge of the lower great arch on the right.




Shane and I have been to the lip of the big roof about five times each and, while we can 'turn' it to the point of getting our chest above the lip, neither of us have been able to get established on the headwall. Out at the lip you've trended right enough to be pulling the move over nothing but space 300ft to the deck and I've taken one fifty footer off it to-date, though we now have a solid BD 3.5 out at the lip. Some of it is pretty technical climbing and I hope to finally get another go at it this year.


You walk under it on the trail down and can see it pretty well (more or less) at the rock where the trail splits to go up to 'Boardwalk' - just look for the 3.5 BD with the draw. Been up there for awhile now (and probably needs to just get tossed at this point).




View from below the second small (but tricky) roof. The yellow line is where I wanted the route to go through the roofs, but what I had hoped was a handcrack through the big, broad a-frame turned out to be just a waterstain, so we go through up the narrower a-frame roof to the right marked in red (for scale, the big orangish block where the red actual line starts is slightly smaller than a UPS truck).

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just out of curiosity, where did they come up with that imaginary line?

It's hard to see from the pics, but it's formed by the arching left side of the lower great arch; everything right of that is on the East Face proper and you're up under the roofs at the base.

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