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Please don't thank Adam and I. It was you all, all the Beacon Climbers who wrote or called in... the Kennys, the Micahs, the Josephs, the Tappet bros, the Jim's, and the multitudes of others who pitched in with their viewpoints and support....etc etc etc etc (along with the Park folks having an open mind -fortunately) that got this open. I'm serious. Having a large solid group all moving in one direction makes for a force.

Randy said: (Heath told me something similar)

Many of you are aware that we received a number of emails and park phone calls related to the temporary closure....."


What we need to do now is, as a mass and again that's all of us, is respect the parks request and to keep anyone from stepping over the lines which the park drew or tripping over their shlong and messing this up for us. They asked us to not climb under the crap they are going to be knocking off (at some point, I would suspect that they don't even have a proposed timeline yet I think they are working on financing still), and to stay off the trail. Seems simple, and we need to respect that in a big way. So lets all work to keep other folks aware of those things. If you see some new folks you don't recognize out there, maybe have a Jim style quick friendly conversation to make sure they are up to speed.


This stuff in the pic below is pretty much right over the South face. I didn't take the photo and haven't been up there yet but I understand there are several other big issues. I'm glad its not on us to get it off without putting the rails of the railroad below at risk, but it does give me great respect when I reflect on the folks who put the trail in way back when with limited tools.






I'm not sure what the free soloists will do as downclimbing in the freezing cold/damp is gonna be much harder now. But I'm pitching this out there, I have a couple phat 12 mil ish static ropes in good condition I'd volunteer to leave fixed so that: A) You can get off easy. or B) A rescue is needed ground up due to marginal weather conditions. I'd want consensus on it first of course. I wouldn't expect many of you crazy's getting on them anyway as it's so cold and wet (predicted ice storm out there today), and a few of us have Season Passes to the mountain and will be elsewhere most of the time anyway.


Hate to dumb the rock down though. In fact, this event has made me (almost) get over my earlier mental opposition to the Jills Thrill rap anchors in a big way. Jim reminded me last night that the Uprising anchor that starts with the slings around that smallish tree, is also a single rope rap to the ground. Last time I did that with Jim he was middle age, and it's been so long I have almost no memory of the specifics.


Anyway, HAPPY CLIMBING BROS!!! back to arguing:-)

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Good job Bill! It was you, in a big way, that contributed to this reopening by working with a good guy like Randy Kline in a positive fashion. So hold your chin high, suck in that gut, and stand proud!

Wanted to mention also that rapping the Flying Dutchman with a 70m is also a single rope rap. It's 2 raps to the ground from Grassy ledges, or one rap with two 70's. So all kinds of options for getting down as I see it. Also, isn't that photo above with the boulder over the west face, and not the south?? I could be mistaken on that however. Looking forward to seeing all you yahoos out there on Saturday, should be some good trundling!

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Can't suck in the gut anymore, too much there:-) ..and it was EVERYONE that did it. Adam gets a bigger piece of congrats of course, Kenny started the seriousness ball rolling, give them some attaboys as they were standouts in a crowd where everyone mattered: everyone.

Also, isn't that photo above with the boulder over the west face, and not the south?? I could be mistaken on that however. Looking forward to seeing all you yahoos out there on Saturday, should be some good trundling!

I'm not sure, that would be much better for the folks gonna get stuck with the job of making it disappear. It looks like the upper switchbacks somewhere. I was thinking it may be a switchback or 2 above the uprising topout (photo below). But could be real mistaken as well. Maybe someone will recognize it.



Edit, relooked. And relooked. I'm thinking you may be right about that. The wood walkway is a clue.


Edit again, the river below must mean they took the photo looking south? Which would make it south side? I was unable to spot the damage but that was before the boat area was reopened. A quick recon with a spotting scope would nail it down pretty fast.

Edited by billcoe
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a fixed line down the dutchman for soloing is a nice idea, but would need to be fixed at the bottom too if you didn't want it to end up in a bad, bad place :)


i got in several good solos last decemeber/january i recall - it'd be nice to manage a few more and it sounds like the hiking trail will be screwed until spring at least...

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I have a phat 70M in perfect condition/slightly used near new static that we could tie off at the oak tree at the base of the Dutchman Ivan. I'll gladly donate it as it would make ascent easy for Skamania SAR to grassy ledges in the event a rescue is called during a winter storm (god forbid). Sometimes I wonder why people get caught out in shit weather, but they do, over and over and over -usually in the mountains. 2 recent examples on this site, it's sad. Hope we don't have anything like that occur during this short window we've been allowed. If so, it would be nice to have a way to get rescue folks up safety and rapidly through the lower difficulty's and onto grassy ledges.


It's a yellow rope and will be visible though. Lot of (other folks free solo the corner, they can climb with a harness and belay device - grassy ledges would be a good stopping point. The worst thing about it is trying to stuff it into a belay device. But it goes, you just have to work it.


Can folks post what they think about that idea? (ie, dropping it down the Dutchman for the next 2 months till the annual closure occurs) If there's any push back or anyones even a tad ambivalent, I won't put it up and won't be upset at all, just say now.....I'm not into pissing anyone off and losing a good (but used) static line. One of you can pull it off for me in Feb. (hopefully)


Be honest please.

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Definitely the way to go, Bill. I had a hauling 8mm fixed there when I was doing the Upper Grassy Ledges anchor replacements. It's for sure the cleanest way off Grassy Ledges. Maybe replace the short safety line on the little Flying Dutchman ledge while you're at it.


Also, the rap down Crankenstein just to the left of it is the only clean litter rap point off of Grassy Ledges that's a straight shot to the ground with no obstructions.

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Thank you all, good points, and I'd apprise the rangers.


I'll give it some more time for any non-enthusiastic comments and if everyone reading this can share the question with friends and climbing partners etc, and report on any adverse thoughts it would be appreciated.

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Great idea to fix a line down the Dutchman Bill. I replaced the short fixed line next to the anchor two years ago. I would recommend backing up the pin and bolt at either end of the short fixed line as they look historic, or maybe the answer for now might be to run an additional line from tree at Grassy Ledges that goes to the anchor if its going to see much traffic and until the trail is re-opened? I have extra static line if needed.



Edited by stevetimetravlr
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  • 2 weeks later...




Well, I didn't get any negative comments via email or PM on the fixed rope idea. Then again, it's been close to raining nonstop and looks to be not slowing down anytime soon. Nice we are getting record rain, and some of it is sticking around as snow. The fish give that 2 fins up:-) But with the holidays and the rain, I'm not putting a fixed line up anytime soon. If anyone is feeling spry and wants to put up my rope let me know and I'll figure out a way to get it too you. It's a beefy close to 12mm line that will just barely (but will) fit into a standard ATC. I'm planning on getting some ski time in in the next few months, and maybe pick up a corner lap after a ski day if the weather finally cooperates and I can connect with an afternoon partner.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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