kevbone Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 That’s awesome. I bet the birds flourished while no pedestrians were allowed that close to the nest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 To all the Beaconeits...... Assuming you are not free soloing, what piece do you use on the crux of Jills Thrill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 What do you consider the crux? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 Right before Yosemite ledge. The slab with the thin crack going up the middle. Grass clump on right is gone now...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 #7 HB alloy nut and a #1 Mastercam, both way in the back; neither are the worlds best placements, but suffice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 a wad of big league chew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 To all the Beaconeits...... Assuming you are not free soloing, what piece do you use on the crux of Jills Thrill? my testicle, inverted and put in sideways is soooooooo BOMBER in that spot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 To all the Beaconeits...... Assuming you are not free soloing, what piece do you use on the crux of Jills Thrill? my testicle, inverted and put in sideways is soooooooo BOMBER in that spot that might work for you but most of us are going to find our testicles are much too large. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 #7 HB alloy nut and a #1 Mastercam, both way in the back; neither are the worlds best placements, but suffice. From the stance before you commit you can place a high red Alien that is the bomber of all bomber placements. It protects all of the move without running it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Good to know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 blew my onsight...shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 I place a small blue alien there where you are talking about Kev, where it really constricts up high as you can reach. Then you can stem up and get on the slab, where if you are nervous you can stand there at a stance and reach left and place a bomber red camalot in a wide pocket in the crack. I usually just forgo that unless its slippery, and go for the topout. I think if you fall off that slab, its never going to be pretty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 Love that climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 yep, great Jim O. route. It just needs the tat at the anchors cleaned off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 new year, new beatard count 1/1/13 - day#1 - curiously cold and icy and windblown lap on the corner w/ that powderhound chap, clad in a goddamn gordon's fisherman jumpsuit w/ tight matching-colored gear - wondrous ice-curtain on the slab pitch, under the roofs, and frostcicles on tree ledge - a frozen gully choked w/ gravel up on grassy ledge - sand-storms out on the island, carrying grit all the way across the water to the docks - the boat landing slammed w/ waves, breaking across the ice-clad pier - many tourons on the trail - a fine, quick lap - the first day of Beatardia 2013! 1/12 - day#2 - strange day - freezing fog on the wakeup, car shackled in ice at the dawn - geoff at the burger king - high-speed jet through the quiet lull of the gorge, the road dry n' gentle - beacon becalmed, all door discipline disregarded - a great gut-laugh at the peach allah had gracefully cast into our laps - i get all the leads down low - consensus conditions S5 (our ascent of 12/21/12 in recent memory a retard S9, damn near pegging the limit of the possible) - challenging lead conditions for sure still, with sheet-freeze all over, slowly peeling off in the relatively tropical conditions - runnels of run-off bubbling underneath the ice - the sun bursting through the clear air - rumbles of gunfire, pap-pap-pap-pap, a militia-action for certain on the oregon shores - slip-sliding away all over from grassy ledges up - glimpse of the bonneville crick draining into the river, all jizzum-milky, the vas defernes of the columbian cock- exited the long way, the Great Coward wending all to Starboard where he could - a walk down all bathed in rays of a riotous golden orb - jim at the base w/ an old boy - oaths and auguries, threats and Aggravated Assaults considered - an easy orbit back through the steaming warmth of the gorge-winter disbanded, if only for a bit 1/22 - #3 - annealed by two recent days at smith in the Big Fridge of the bivy site, mornings traversing the phantasmagorical formations of frozen sludge, mike and i had an evening run up the bacon-wand in a big olde freshet of gaudy coldness a big dry had beaten off the vast damp of days gone by - barely any ice on route - half the digits of my right foot right numb by grassy ledges, i unshod and rubbed hardly any life back into them - toes throb as i type booty nut on p2, should the original owner wish to claim it from a massive pile of such things i have growing in my garage not even a fort-night of fucknoodling about the sunny-side left - full moon fever this weekend for any half-wit warriors who might feel the urge to come w/... 2/2 - day #4 - ground hogz day, a swift demise to deadly winter predicted - 'twas the day after a wander up the hood-wand w/ an interesting feller to dispatch the doldrum of the beacon s side closure - ya never stop learning in the mountains, this time 2 Ore-e-gone Snowboard'nBoyz taught me how to inhale green weeds through green apples using nothing more than a glorious bright winter sun and a magnifying glass - a good invention for the stiff breezes off an open glacier - much thanks for them that rock the Van Damme stone soup w/ geoff today - despite the distinct sense of early spring setting in as the Great Hamster foresaw, it was a mort cold and savage breezy - geoff did p1, and i managed to mangle meself on p2 - found a fixed nut at the start of the eyebrow traverse and was hanging out on it for awhile, had just plugged the next cam in when suddenly i was falling - fell/slid into a slab, instinctively grabbing an edge to stop the fall, sheared off the flesh of my pinky-tip and sprung the sprockets in the other fingers' knuckles, then went heads'o'er'tits and continued on down, getting entangled in the rope running up through the gear and ultimately arresting hanging upside down looking straight at the olde boye, who looked frankly startled blood pouring from the flensed n' flapping finger, i wrapped my balaclava about it n' took stock - had a good gut laugh upon recalling that last time i climbed on this side, last spring, i'd ended up in the e.r. too - maybe i'm just not getting the message? geoff was my hero - not only did he finish the pitch, he also figured out how, after 10 minutes, to get my damn knot untied by pounding on it w/ a jug - the big breeze blew itself out as dejected would-be hiking trail ascenders milled about the parking lot and i howled at the sky in mock musical appreciation - the climb done, we went off, each to his saturday night debaucheries and me to keen my wound w/ wanton drunkenness 4/25 - day 5 - holy shee-it muslims, it's been 2 months - lovely spring day - many olde boyes humping the o-zone on the way out - on the north side, the sun peaking over, one hand washes the other, i fear nothing - 3 peregrines screeching n' flopping about - green grass - crisp n' crunchy moss - had time to stop by and yack-yack w/ jim n' sal n' steve n' wes n' a whole motley crew of misfits n' misogynistic fucks on the way back - did a couple solo laps on the jacobs ladder and drank some beers, then boogied on back home for "house of cards" w/ the wifey jesus-h-christ, why are they doing more construction on the 14?!? 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stevetimetravlr Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 Good climbing with ya Ivan. It felt good to get the rope back on after that solo sess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 new year, new beatard count 1/1/13 - day#1 - curiously cold and icy and windblown lap on the corner w/ that powderhound chap, clad in a goddamn gordon's fisherman jumpsuit w/ tight matching-colored gear - wondrous ice-curtain on the slab pitch, under the roofs, and frostcicles on tree ledge - a frozen gully choked w/ gravel up on grassy ledge - sand-storms out on the island, carrying grit all the way across the water to the docks - the boat landing slammed w/ waves, breaking across the ice-clad pier - many tourons on the trail - a fine, quick lap - the first day of Beatardia 2013! 1/12 - day#2 - strange day - freezing fog on the wakeup, car shackled in ice at the dawn - geoff at the burger king - high-speed jet through the quiet lull of the gorge, the road dry n' gentle - beacon becalmed, all door discipline disregarded - a great gut-laugh at the peach allah had gracefully cast into our laps - i get all the leads down low - consensus conditions S5 (our ascent of 12/21/12 in recent memory a retard S9, damn near pegging the limit of the possible) - challenging lead conditions for sure still, with sheet-freeze all over, slowly peeling off in the relatively tropical conditions - runnels of run-off bubbling underneath the ice - the sun bursting through the clear air - rumbles of gunfire, pap-pap-pap-pap, a militia-action for certain on the oregon shores - slip-sliding away all over from grassy ledges up - glimpse of the bonneville crick draining into the river, all jizzum-milky, the vas defernes of the columbian cock- exited the long way, the Great Coward wending all to Starboard where he could - a walk down all bathed in rays of a riotous golden orb - jim at the base w/ an old boy - oaths and auguries, threats and Aggravated Assaults considered - an easy orbit back through the steaming warmth of the gorge-winter disbanded, if only for a bit 1/22 - #3 - annealed by two recent days at smith in the Big Fridge of the bivy site, mornings traversing the phantasmagorical formations of frozen sludge, mike and i had an evening run up the bacon-wand in a big olde freshet of gaudy coldness a big dry had beaten off the vast damp of days gone by - barely any ice on route - half the digits of my right foot right numb by grassy ledges, i unshod and rubbed hardly any life back into them - toes throb as i type booty nut on p2, should the original owner wish to claim it from a massive pile of such things i have growing in my garage not even a fort-night of fucknoodling about the sunny-side left - full moon fever this weekend for any half-wit warriors who might feel the urge to come w/... 2/2 - day #4 - ground hogz day, a swift demise to deadly winter predicted - 'twas the day after a wander up the hood-wand w/ an interesting feller to dispatch the doldrum of the beacon s side closure - ya never stop learning in the mountains, this time 2 Ore-e-gone Snowboard'nBoyz taught me how to inhale green weeds through green apples using nothing more than a glorious bright winter sun and a magnifying glass - a good invention for the stiff breezes off an open glacier - much thanks for them that rock the Van Damme stone soup w/ geoff today - despite the distinct sense of early spring setting in as the Great Hamster foresaw, it was a mort cold and savage breezy - geoff did p1, and i managed to mangle meself on p2 - found a fixed nut at the start of the eyebrow traverse and was hanging out on it for awhile, had just plugged the next cam in when suddenly i was falling - fell/slid into a slab, instinctively grabbing an edge to stop the fall, sheared off the flesh of my pinky-tip and sprung the sprockets in the other fingers' knuckles, then went heads'o'er'tits and continued on down, getting entangled in the rope running up through the gear and ultimately arresting hanging upside down looking straight at the olde boye, who looked frankly startled blood pouring from the flensed n' flapping finger, i wrapped my balaclava about it n' took stock - had a good gut laugh upon recalling that last time i climbed on this side, last spring, i'd ended up in the e.r. too - maybe i'm just not getting the message? geoff was my hero - not only did he finish the pitch, he also figured out how, after 10 minutes, to get my damn knot untied by pounding on it w/ a jug - the big breeze blew itself out as dejected would-be hiking trail ascenders milled about the parking lot and i howled at the sky in mock musical appreciation - the climb done, we went off, each to his saturday night debaucheries and me to keen my wound w/ wanton drunkenness 4/25 - day 5 - holy shee-it muslims, it's been 2 months - lovely spring day - many olde boyes humping the o-zone on the way out - on the north side, the sun peaking over, one hand washes the other, i fear nothing - 3 peregrines screeching n' flopping about - green grass - crisp n' crunchy moss - had time to stop by and yack-yack w/ jim n' sal n' steve n' wes n' a whole motley crew of misfits n' misogynistic fucks on the way back - did a couple solo laps on the jacobs ladder and drank some beers, then boogied on back home for "house of cards" w/ the wifey jesus-h-christ, why are they doing more construction on the 14?!? 4/30 - beacon day 6 for the year - only 2 days at the baconwand this month, but spring seems to be here fo'shiz, even if today it was right blustery and overcast - scrambly, scrambly on the n side for a while, then a satisfying hike to the summit - the 70th anniversary of an intelligence coup - "mincemeat has been swallowed" - peregrines apparent from the uprising exit, swooping and screeching and having a ball it looked - kenny in the lot, horrifyingly still set in his hate-tobacco way, but w/ rainier-beer as always Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 So much good rock around Seattle but Portland posters are absolutely kicking ass about Beacon. Hats off to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 So much good rock around Seattle but Portland posters are absolutely kicking ass about Beacon. Hats off to you. hardly - mostly just hiking these days, though i suspect thursday will have some honest-to-dog fun on the n side - temps in 80s n' sunny that side after 4 - sweeeeeet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 So much good rock around Seattle but Portland posters are absolutely kicking ass about Beacon. Hats off to you. hardly - mostly just hiking these days, though i suspect thursday will have some honest-to-dog fun on the n side - temps in 80s n' sunny that side after 4 - sweeeeeet! Come on over and use me casa as base camp... I've got a 4 day weekend and the place is empty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 So much good rock around Seattle but Portland posters are absolutely kicking ass about Beacon. Hats off to you. hardly - mostly just hiking these days, though i suspect thursday will have some honest-to-dog fun on the n side - temps in 80s n' sunny that side after 4 - sweeeeeet! Come on over and use me casa as base camp... I've got a 4 day weekend and the place is empty. Prolly cook up some viddles... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 nice - tempting - hoping to get out saturday as well as the weather looks like tiiiiiities for a long time to come Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 i like boobs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 So much good rock around Seattle but Portland posters are absolutely kicking ass about Beacon. Hats off to you. Beacon, the best climbing in Oregon.....and its in Washington. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis H Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Best crack climbing close too Pdx and it keeps the sporties at the Zone and Smith.!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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