mzvarner Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 im having a hard time figureing out a good one. I think im probably going to stick with down, seems warmer to me and obviously more compressable. Im looking to have one that will work for a variety of elevations ( i mean up Raineir too). ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 If you are going to use it for climbing....it needs to do a couple of things down really can't. If you are climbing hard or out in nasty weather you'll get wet from sweat or environmental perciptation. When you need the jacket you want it to warm you as well as help dry out your climbing outfit. Best bet to accomplish that is a synthetic. For anything in the Cascades in winter and most everything in Canada you don't need a very heavy jacket. Patagonia Micro Hoody or the MTN Hardware Compressor hoody are lwts and both work well. Patagonia also offers the DAS or the RAB jacket which are both a step up but really popular as well. My belay jacket goes on and comes off many times during a day of alpine climbing and is usually soaked through by day's end. A synthetic will keep on working and dry out if I am wearing it. A down jacket would be useless in similar conditions. Rapping off things like Upper Weeping Wall, Polar Circus or walking down from Libery Cap would be a lot less enjoyable because of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzvarner Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 thats funny you mention the DAS its what i have now, the only bummer is that it does not pack down, but you do make a good point with everything getting wet. So, again, thanks dane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Poulton Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 In the "rainy" PNW down is not the way to go...you're wet and then really cold. Synthetic is the best. I use the Mtn Hardwear Chugach powder pant and the Mtn Hardwear Belay parka (now made this parka way) Synthetic retains a lot more warmth even after it gets wet....I've sat out a lot with this gear and only my base layer and shells on under...keeping perfectly warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 thats funny you mention the DAS its what i have now, the only bummer is that it does not pack down Same reason I went to the MTN Hardware Compressor jacket. Sold everything else I owned. Never liked the DAS but lots here do. Used the Compressor Hoody all last winter and loved it. Mtn Gear had a bunch of them last winter. Worth checking them out. More here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/914251/Re_Synthetic_Insulation_Jacket#Post914251 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzvarner Posted October 24, 2009 Author Share Posted October 24, 2009 how well does it hold up on the windy summit of rainer. i see that as being the gnarliest thing i do for a while, before stepping up to canada or alaska. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaredSilly Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 I use a Wild Things Belay Jacket. It packs down nicely and gives just enough warmed while, well belaying. http://www.wildthingsgear.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=88&zenid=115da24dc1aa260a84368b24851d464e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 how well does it hold up on the windy summit of rainer. i see that as being the gnarliest thing i do for a while, before stepping up to canada or alaska. Mtn Hardware Compressor? It would work well on Rainier in winter. I use the Compressor all winter in Canada. I like a little more insulation (DAS or NF) for Alaska simply because you know you'll be out longer and it can get a lot colder up high. I don't normally use a belay jacket in summer even on things like Rainier. There are so many good synthetic belay style jackets out. Patagonia's offerings, Wild Things, some of the older North Face gear, Mtn HW, Arcteryx, to name just a few. I've owned many of them. Best thing to do is try a bunch of them on. What I found important was fit. How they hang around the harness and how they fit with arms extended while climbing were important to me. A belay jacket that isn't comfortable and easy to climb in is a jacket you'll be taking off more often than not. Or worse yet not putting yours on early enough. I climbed a lot in a Compressor Hoody and a Patagonia Puff Hoody last couple of winters. More than I ever have in a belay jacket. Best part of that experience was with the Compressor Hoody I was seldom reminded I was climbing in a belay jacket. Great picture from Collin's web site. http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2009_05_01_archive.html Down Norrona and a DAS on the summit of Hunter. John's photo of one of our local heros last Nov in a DAS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Poulton Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 One more thing...way don't more people use black colored parkas...they are warmer and dry out faster then the light colored parkas? Every layer I use is black... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robpatterson5 Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 Dane, have you looked at the ArcTeryx Duality parka? Any thoughts? I saw it in store and thought that it looked good - wondering if you have any imput. I've been happy w/ my BPL Pro Parka and DAS, summer and winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stever Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 (edited) Anyone here use MEC's tango belay jacket? How does it compare to the DAS or Wild Things belay jackets? Dane, using both the compressor and the patagonia puff, which do you prefer? Edited November 27, 2009 by Steve Roberts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 One more thing...way don't more people use black colored parkas...they are warmer and dry out faster then the light colored parkas? Every layer I use is black... Black makes you look obscure in a photo. Sponsored heroes wear bright colours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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