matt_warfield Posted October 16, 2009 Author Posted October 16, 2009 Sail Flake is short but I was worked by then. I did enjoy the tree start though. But it has been a few years now and marc has a much better handle on things than I do. But marc, did you do the route when the rope was up above the sword or are you just a youngster? Quote
marc_leclerc Posted October 17, 2009 Posted October 17, 2009 Sail Flake is short but I was worked by then. I did enjoy the tree start though. But it has been a few years now and marc has a much better handle on things than I do. But marc, did you do the route when the rope was up above the sword or are you just a youngster? I would be the latter I guess.... I should sort of change my statement a bit... Perrys Layback and Sail flake are Underclings for the most part... you can jam sail flake if you want once it turns upwards... Quote
counterfeitfake Posted October 17, 2009 Posted October 17, 2009 But marc, did you do the route when the rope was up above the sword or are you just a youngster? I have heard of this. Were there bolts for pro too, or no? That would have been gnar as fuck. Quote
matt_warfield Posted October 17, 2009 Author Posted October 17, 2009 No bolts, just a rope hanging from the next anchors 30 ft. or so away on vertical rock. It was a big rope for ease of grasping but also a big job after the sword pitch got you worked and a fall puts you right on the lower anchors and it happened a few times. In my opinion it was good decision making to make it a bolt ladder since there already was one before the pillar and the rope was aid anyway unless you climb 5.13 with the free variation. Make it safe, don't worry about a little AO and enjoy stellar rock the rest of the time. Quote
matt_warfield Posted October 17, 2009 Author Posted October 17, 2009 Back on topic but for the record, one of the free solo artists on Classic has a last name that rhymes with whale. Those familiar with L-town climbing will know of whom I speek. Quote
denalidave Posted October 17, 2009 Posted October 17, 2009 Back on topic but for the record, one of the free solo artists on Classic has a last name that rhymes with whale. Those familiar with L-town climbing will know of whom I speek. Flail? Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 17, 2009 Posted October 17, 2009 The Classic Crack in the Icicle is WAY more classic then the one at Broughtons, no disrepect for Broughtons choss pile as i live in the Gorge here and climb on that stuff all the time. Granite splitter heaven for about 30 feet. Perfect 5.8 lockers. Quote
matt_warfield Posted October 18, 2009 Author Posted October 18, 2009 The free solo guy who's name rhymes with whale said he only climbs on granite- no limestone, no Vantage, no Little Si, just granite. Fortunately there is lots of granite around. Especially since Index Lower Town Wall is apparently saved. Quote
matt_warfield Posted October 18, 2009 Author Posted October 18, 2009 Back on topic but for the record, one of the free solo artists on Classic has a last name that rhymes with whale. Those familiar with L-town climbing will know of whom I speek. Flail? Flail is funny but not appropriate for free solo artists His last name starts with B. Quote
telemarker Posted October 19, 2009 Posted October 19, 2009 (edited) Back on topic but for the record, one of the free solo artists on Classic has a last name that rhymes with whale. Those familiar with L-town climbing will know of whom I speek. Flail? Flail is funny but not appropriate for free solo artists His last name starts with B. For God sakes it's Dave fucking Bale. Edited October 19, 2009 by telemarker Quote
marc_leclerc Posted October 19, 2009 Posted October 19, 2009 For God sakes it's Dave fucking Bale. damn... I wish my middle name was 'Fucking'.... thats badass you know... go in for a job interview and be like, 'hey sir, I'm Marc Fucking Leclerc... that would be sweet! Quote
pink Posted October 19, 2009 Posted October 19, 2009 For God sakes it's Dave fucking Bale. damn... I wish my middle name was 'Fucking'.... thats badass you know... go in for a job interview and be like, 'hey sir, I'm Marc Fucking Leclerc... that would be sweet! marc that may be the only funny thing you have ever posted on this site... Quote
G-spotter Posted October 19, 2009 Posted October 19, 2009 Oh my god, someone soloed Classic Crack? They must be a fucking badass. By the way did you hear that Eric Mohler once soloed Brass Balls? He pays people a buck every time that gets posted on cc.com. Quote
marc_leclerc Posted October 19, 2009 Posted October 19, 2009 Oh my god, someone soloed Classic Crack? They must be a fucking badass. Come on man... even some trained Mountaineers fall off that one! Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 19, 2009 Posted October 19, 2009 Classic Crack has always been a solo rite of passage for 5.10 crack climbers and drunken 5.9 ones. Quote
marc_leclerc Posted October 19, 2009 Posted October 19, 2009 (edited) Classic Crack has always been a solo rite of passage for 5.10 crack climbers and drunken 5.9 ones. why not 5.8+ ones? or do thay have to be stoned too? actually.. I wonder I was high enough if I could solo The Left Side... Edited October 19, 2009 by marc_leclerc Quote
denalidave Posted October 19, 2009 Posted October 19, 2009 For God sakes it's Dave fucking Bale. damn... I wish my middle name was 'Fucking'.... thats badass you know... go in for a job interview and be like, 'hey sir, I'm Marc Fucking Leclerc... that would be sweet! Quote
hafilax Posted October 19, 2009 Posted October 19, 2009 For God sakes it's Dave fucking Bale. damn... I wish my middle name was 'Fucking'.... thats badass you know... go in for a job interview and be like, 'hey sir, I'm Marc Fucking Leclerc... that would be sweet! For $137 I'm sure that could be arranged. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 19, 2009 Posted October 19, 2009 Back in the mid 70's and early 80's there were hardly any homes in the Icicle, and none near Classic Crack. We would crash out at the base with a campfire and take turns soloing it as everyone got progressively more beer in them, not that I reccommend that. We spent allot of time during the summers at the UW climbing rock, most midweek evenings in the summer. That place teaches you how to jam in such painful nasty concrete(tape up!) that if you spend anytime there, climbing Classic Crack will be a cakewalk. The UW climbing rock cracks are probably the best place to train for Yosemite and granite splitters that I could imagine. Does anyone train there anymore or is it not in vogue? I left the Seattle area many moons ago..... Quote
matt_warfield Posted October 19, 2009 Author Posted October 19, 2009 Dave Bale is correct. A really good guy. Another interesting event was meeting Richard Cilley in the Snow Creek parking lot. I bought a chalk bag from him and visited for a bit. He was being harassed by The Man for two reasons: parking overnight when many cars were being broken into and for having a mannequin in the shotgun seat ostensibly to use carpool lanes which are not very prevalent in Leavenworth. But The Man is not about logic or creativity of the human experience most of the time. Quote
DPS Posted October 19, 2009 Posted October 19, 2009 The UW climbing rock cracks are probably the best place to train for Yosemite and granite splitters that I could imagine. Word. Quote
Jopa Posted October 22, 2009 Posted October 22, 2009 Dave Whitelaw introduced me to Classic Crack when I was first learning how to jam. I climbed to the top and was ready to be lowered, but Dave hollered up "now downclimb!" So I did. Once I got to the bottom he said, "now climb up again." Sure enough once I got to the top he suggested that I downclimb...again. This was followed by a third lap and subsequent downclimb, after which my ego gave in to the river of blood gushing from both hands. Just as my feet touched the bottom he said, "Congratulations. You just climbed one pitch at Yosemite." Those gobies stuck around for a very long time. Quote
Sherri Posted October 22, 2009 Posted October 22, 2009 Dave Whitelaw introduced me to Classic Crack when I was first learning how to jam. I climbed to the top and was ready to be lowered, but Dave hollered up "now downclimb!" So I did. Once I got to the bottom he said, "now climb up again." Sure enough once I got to the top he suggested that I downclimb...again. This was followed by a third lap and subsequent downclimb, after which my ego gave in to the river of blood gushing from both hands. Just as my feet touched the bottom he said, "Congratulations. You just climbed one pitch at Yosemite." Those gobies stuck around for a very long time. Great story. Quote
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