bigwallrick Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Does anyone know how or why the horn on the traverse from snag ledge is missing. I find it disturbing knowing that I have pulled albeit gingerly on that horn for the last 20 years. It also served as a directional for the rope when belaying the second over to the belay anchors for the slab pitch. It was there only a few weeks ago so this must have happened recently. It is my opinion that someone had to beat on this horn to completely dislodge it. Not only did this create a hazard by making that part of the traverse unstable it was absolutely unneccesary!!If you didnt like it go around there are also a number of other questionable flakes missing leading up to the slab pitch. We have all been aware of the loose blocks,flakes and other crap on the corner for years and CLIMB AROUND IT> there was no need to vandalize the rock. It doesnt make it any safer to remove large pieces it only makes the ledges less stable. If you are uncomfortable with loose crap dont climb at Beacon rock. The nature of traditional climbing is route finding and hazard management. If you are unprepared to deal with the risks of adventure climbing dont climb at beacon rock. Please do not remove anything loose or otherwise. There is a climbing association to deal with serious risks that present a real danger to the climbing community. Quote
JosephH Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Sort of like the horn that used to be at the top of the first pitch, it always been just a matter of time before someone without much control over themselves yarded it out of there. Sad to see it go, but glad it didn't come off on someone free-soloing (not that it likely ever would have). Quote
ivan Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 just so i'm clear before i go soloing through there again this weekend - this missing rock is on the traverse on snag ledge, right? not on the actual crux on the real 2nd pitch? that fucking thing gives me the willy each time as i can feel it flex under my hand, and once missing, may well alter the solo game for awhile Quote
LostCamKenny Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Well said, rick... when were you out last? It was there last week I believe. I saw it when denali dave and I were out on the corner a week ago and also when we did a night mission... interesting that someone felt that they had to dislodge it. No local would have done it so it had to be someone passing through. Hum... Quote
LostCamKenny Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 You are talking abnout the horn visible in this pic, correct? Lowe left hand corner of the pic? This is the only one i am really aware of, rick... it was still there last week if this is what you meant. Quote
Plaidman Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Kenny that is the one. Jim and I, Rick and his buddy Steve where out there yesterday (Wed.) Quote
JosephH Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Oh, I thought you meant the horn you use to get up onto the slab. But that little rope directing stone was pretty nice to have as well, though it too was slowly getting loose. Someone probably yarded on it - bummer. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Kenny that is the one. Jim and I, Rick and his buddy Steve where out there yesterday (Wed.) It was there when Dave and I did our night mission last week, so this is real recent... had to be like joe said - someone musta yarded on it. man, i bet they were surprized at the result Quote
JosephH Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 It's raining noobs, nubiles, and rocks! Well, ok, just noobs and rocks. I'd say it's just the collective price we pay for bringing along folks who haven't gotten control of their weight distribution yet. They have to learn, and out at Beacon that will always involve the loss of some cherished holds over time. C'est la vie... Quote
billcoe Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Does anyone know how or why the horn on the traverse from snag ledge is missing. I find it disturbing knowing that I have pulled albeit gingerly on that horn for the last 20 years. It also served as a directional for the rope when belaying the second over to the belay anchors for the slab pitch. It was there only a few weeks ago so this must have happened recently. It is my opinion that someone had to beat on this horn to completely dislodge it. Not only did this create a hazard by making that part of the traverse unstable it was absolutely unneccesary!!If you didnt like it go around there are also a number of other questionable flakes missing leading up to the slab pitch. We have all been aware of the loose blocks,flakes and other crap on the corner for years and CLIMB AROUND IT> there was no need to vandalize the rock. It doesnt make it any safer to remove large pieces it only makes the ledges less stable. If you are uncomfortable with loose crap dont climb at Beacon rock. The nature of traditional climbing is route finding and hazard management. If you are unprepared to deal with the risks of adventure climbing dont climb at beacon rock. Please do not remove anything loose or otherwise. There is a climbing association to deal with serious risks that present a real danger to the climbing community. Hola Big wall Rick (Rick from Hood River formerly BZ Corner, Wa ?) This kind of thing always seems to get wanked on all over the internet, going on and on and on. So I was thinking of not posting this, but maybe, just maybe, there's something to be said for hoping it falls off (even with planned encouragement) with no one below and that it doesn't hurt or kill anyone. Loose rock is part of Beacon. Quote
JosephH Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 This is worth repeating, however... If you are uncomfortable with loose crap dont climb at Beacon rock. The nature of traditional climbing is route finding and hazard management. If you are unprepared to deal with the risks of adventure climbing dont climb at beacon rock. Please do not remove anything loose or otherwise. There is a climbing association to deal with serious risks that present a real danger to the climbing community. Ditto, for sratching/chalking arrows up the SE Corner for your second and rappelling off the tree. Quote
Plaidman Posted September 25, 2009 Posted September 25, 2009 Ditto, for sratching/chalking arrows up the SE Corner for your second and rappelling off the tree. Right On Joe! Quote
denalidave Posted September 26, 2009 Posted September 26, 2009 Ditto, for sratching/chalking arrows up the SE Corner for your second and rappelling off the tree. Right On Joe! Spray paint lasts longer. Or, how about a chisel and hammer? Quote
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