[TR] Smith Rocks- The Wombat - Santiam Hwy Ledges 9/21/2009

[jlag]

Trip: Smith Rocks- The Wombat - Santiam Hwy Ledges

 

Date: 9/21/2009

 

Trip Report:

Big up to Tyler for bringing this route back up to par. We got on this yesterday and had a ball. The new bolt spacing is awesome, not too sporty so bring some gear to supplement the crux. Great 5.10 moves with pucker-up exposure. Great ledges for belays.

 

Of course we took no pictures, too busy climbing. With the traversing nature of the climb, it would be hard to get any climbing photos. Do not discount the scrambling to get off this route, route finding is not a gimme and pro is a joke. Barely 5th class with lots of loose and suspect rock. Felt like alpine Tuft climbing with some serious no-fall zones.

 

One question for Tyler, the line doesn't follow the actual Santiam Hwy route line in Watt's guide? Variation? Does the old line actually exist. Noticed a new bolt line leaving the belay for pitch one, going up to The Mitten. Does this line punch through to the top? I'd be up for that route.

 

once again thanks

 

JL

[letsroll]

some day you need take a camera and do a photo route tour. Jeesh.....TR with no pics. I don't believe you did it. I need evidence

[fgw]

Nice J - sounds like a fun adventure & nice of Tyler to clean up the hw on it. That mitten looks like fun - just don't yard too hard if liebacking (chimneying??) it or you might take out burma rd

[jlag]

Radek

 

 

Did you see bolts continuing up next to The Mitten? I thought i saw an anchor up there at the base of it, i'm sure that's what you rapped off. Quite a feature, i'd like to get a better look at it. I can't believe how cool The Wombat is, such a huge wall.

 

Will, i tend to concentrate more on climbing and less on photos. Why don't you grow some balls and go climb it? Or should i say aid it.

 

JL

[fgw]

Josh, no anchor that I could see at the start of the thing. Final bolt had a fat hanger on it & there was somebody's cam stuck near the start of the flake.

[letsroll]

If I take a free route and turn it into an aid route do I get to rename it??

[corvallisclimb]

All the lines in the Watts book are wrong. We used 80% of the original holes and added no bolts. Replaced everything bolt for bolt. The line up to the left of the mitten was a attempt by Vince Groner back in 98. I belive he found the flake to be too hollow sounding.

[letsroll]

that is good to know.

[backclipped]

Santiam Highway Ledges? The Wombat? WTF are you guys talking about!? Did you guys hit up some of that festivus going on? Detour-hellllllooooo. Wicked sweet. I was the 32nd guy to send BBQ on Saturday. On Sunday I hooked up with this really zany and cool group of folk who liked to sled and climb on rocks. Sleds, I'm not kidding. They had a saucer and a plastic toboggon. We sent some sick scree. Ya'll should give it a shot some time. BIG fun.

[billcoe]

On Sunday I hooked up with this really zany and cool group of folk who liked to sled and climb on rocks. Sleds, I'm not kidding. They had a saucer and a plastic toboggon. We sent some sick scree. Ya'll should give it a shot some time. BIG fun.

 

Why do I think this will turn into a stay on trails/environmental destruction discussion ?

 

 

.......in 3....2....1...

[backclipped]

Nope, not going there. I would merely like to challenge the notion that climbing, hiking and other such outdoor exploits are not rights; and, that there is a time and place for everything.

[111]

We used 80% of the original holes

 

Is this a safety issue?

[billcoe]

Nope, not going there. I would merely like to challenge the notion that climbing, hiking and other such outdoor exploits are not rights; and, that there is a time and place for everything.

 

Me either as I have some rock (in an public area *cough cough*) that I want to jackhammer....and I will, so no reason for me to move right into a glass house and start tossing rocks.