Spence Posted September 19, 2009 Posted September 19, 2009 (edited) I saw the earlier post on our project and thought I would respond here in the Gym forum. We have been working hard on the new gym and while we are working on the official Tacoma page @ www.verticalworld.com I thought some of you might be interested in a quick preview. The design includes nearly 5000 sq ft of bouldering terrain. The layout is very open and the front room has large windows that look out to downtown. The walls have open flowing contours that will accommodate long boulder problems. The bouldering will go to 16' and there will be a section of cracks ranging from fingers to hands. I believe the design will add a new dimension to indoor climbing in the NW and I look forward to meeting many of you in Tacoma. -Ryan Spence [img:left]http://www.flashbackscuba.com/The%20Vertical%20Club%20Tacoma/The%20Vertical%20Club%20Tacoma-Images/0.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://www.flashbackscuba.com/The%20Vertical%20Club%20Tacoma/The%20Vertical%20Club%20Tacoma-Images/2.jpg[/img] Edited September 19, 2009 by Spence
richard_noggin Posted September 19, 2009 Posted September 19, 2009 I’m sorry and I don’t want to sound disrespectful, BUT DO WE NEED ANOTHER BOULDER GYM! What the south end needs is a decent climbing gym, like 30 feet plus top ropes and lead routes, the older crowd with the money to climb in gyms can’t take ground falls or drop offs and we all need training on longer routes for climbing in the great outdoors.In the winter I have been known to drive 2 hours from the south end to climb at vertical world in Seattle and would buy a membership if there was a decent gym like Seattle's in Tacoma or olympia
Spence Posted September 19, 2009 Author Posted September 19, 2009 With Edgeworks(30+ walls) in Tacoma as well as VW Bremerton (40' walls) just down the road I think south sound is well covered. I can certainly understand if you don't think a bouldering gym serves your needs. If you feel that Edgeworks is not meeting your needs as far as roped climbing I suggest talking to them. They have a great staff and talented routesetters that care about providing the best experience possible. My wife and I climb there often and really enjoy it. I admit that I am not that familiar with the Olympia market but there definitely isn't a large enough market to support two full featured gyms in Tacoma. The Bouldering concept compliments what is here and allows us to put the gym in a great location that will serve a lot of people. The bouldering at the VC Tacoma will be different than a lot of places with lots of longer problems in the 20-30+ range. Training for longer routes won't be a problem. We will also have a lot of circuits geared towards route climbers. I think there is a misconception that bouldering gyms only serve boulderers. I am almost exclusively a route climber outdoors and trad routes at that and I have found that a properly laid out bouldering facility is a great way to progress in the outdoors. You never know but you might be pleasantly surprised. The south sound climbing scene is stronger and has more options now than ever. If you want to see bigger gyms then the best option is to help grow the market to support them. Don't forget that Seattle is one of the strongest gym markets in the entire country and hundreds of gyms across the country have closed their doors over the past few years. In the end the best gym is the one that can afford to stay open. The south sound gym scene may not be perfect in your eyes but it has come a long way my eyes. When I built the climbing facility at the University of Puget Sound in 1996 the only option around was Spire rock. I hope you find what you are looking for. If you find a group of investors I would be happy to build the gym of your dreams in your town. -Ryan
richard_noggin Posted September 20, 2009 Posted September 20, 2009 Boulder gym in Tacoma=boondoggle Edgeworks is a bouldering gym and all the Tacoma boulders go there already, Bremerton is the same drive as vertical world Seattle and a better gym, like me people will seek out the best gym. I am not trying to stir you up or bum you out, just speak'n the obvious Good luck you'll need it.
CollinWoods Posted September 20, 2009 Posted September 20, 2009 I think it would be cool if a gym that had a realistic aid route to practice on.
aussie69 Posted September 20, 2009 Posted September 20, 2009 you can aid off the derelict buildings down town. (Pound pitons in between old bricks) No gym needed 4 that crap. As 4 edgeworks being a bouldering gym, did you take a ground fall to the head? They set some of the best top rope and indoor lead climbs this side a the Mississippi has ever seen! Try it again. You'll love it
RuMR Posted September 21, 2009 Posted September 21, 2009 I’m sorry and I don’t want to sound disrespectful, BUT DO WE NEED ANOTHER BOULDER GYM! What the south end needs is a decent climbing gym, like 30 feet plus top ropes and lead routes, the older crowd with the money to climb in gyms can’t take ground falls or drop offs and we all need training on longer routes for climbing in the great outdoors.In the winter I have been known to drive 2 hours from the south end to climb at vertical world in Seattle and would buy a membership if there was a decent gym like Seattle's in Tacoma or olympia yes, because you know, its all about the old climbers... Seriously, there is enough of stupid ass vertical boring toproping/ *lead* climbing walls around here...lame-O Props to VW for putting in some "modern" terrain!!!! About FREAKING TIME!
Rad Posted September 24, 2009 Posted September 24, 2009 Looks cool. My comment is that while texture and features are neat, if they are too large then they tend to dominate and even limit moves in sections of wall. For example, in the UW gym bouldering area we do english (feet allowed on features) and for sections of the wall you almost invariably use certain footholds regardless of what route is set. If the features are small enough or the walls steep enough this may not be too much of a concern. Just my 2 cents. Look forward to checking out your gym someday.
counterfeitfake Posted September 24, 2009 Posted September 24, 2009 Boulder gym in Tacoma=boondoggle Edgeworks is a bouldering gym and all the Tacoma boulders go there already Just in case people reading this don't know any better... I climb at Edgeworks and disagree that it is a "bouldering gym". I think at least 3/4 of the space in there is dedicated to roped climbing, with a fairly healthy lead climbing section. The routesetting is good, and if you're in the neighborhood you should check it out.
Spence Posted September 28, 2009 Author Posted September 28, 2009 We have the official page up and running now with some more photos and some of the specs on the different features: Vertical Club Tacoma It is hard to get an idea of scale from photos but the features are big. To give you an idea the 70 degree wall is about the same angle as the steep flat wall in the upstairs area at Stone Gardens only it is significantly longer and ends with an 8' headwall. It truly is a beast! The "The Shield" and the "Headwall" are 16' tall with the "Font" and Corner Boulders reaching 14'. We should have more photos posted shortly. As a side note the beam that intersects the wall between the "Shield" and "The Headwall" will be removed. We begin paneling the walls this week so things will be really moving from here on out. -Ryan
Off_White Posted September 29, 2009 Posted September 29, 2009 Thanks for the process photos, wood framed climbing walls are about as engaging as framing ever gets for a carpenter, good twisty thought provoking work.
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