AT Gamma Mx Hoody

[ridgeline]

I am considering the Gamma Mx Hoody (arc'teryx) and the ascensionist (patagonia) for a new lightweight soft shell for ice/alpine climbing.

 

My local shop has the Patagonia jacket and it seems nice, though I think the cut is a bit too trim around the chest. I'm not able to find the Gamma MX locally.

 

Anyone tried the Gamma Mx? I'm curious has to how light it feels, how well it sheds light precip, overall cut for ice climbing, etc...general impressions.

 

I'm able to get both pieces for @ the same price otherwise I wouldn't consider the Gamma.

thanks

 

[Dane]

The Gamma MX is a great piece. It is my ( and a couple of my buddies) main upper piece for ice climbing in Canada all winter.

 

Sheds lwt snow and rain well though you will get wet over time in the wrong conditions. But better yet it drys with body heat easily. Good fit, long arms and just long enough in the body to not be in the way with a harness and give good protection as well. Pockets are awesome. Makes it easy to carry the right stuff in the right places for easy access. The top pockets on the MX have made taking pictures while climbing really easy. The other side I carry untied 7mm rap tat in. Also easy access. Liked it enough to have bought a second one cheap on sale as a spare this summer. 1st one is 5 years old now. Seams are a little worn but no holes in the fabiric and still going strong. I did retreat it with Scotch guard last year. Pretty amazing to me it is still in one piece and usable after that amount of time.

 

How's it feel? You'll never know you are wearing it. Which is pretty cool. Hard to believe a piece of clothing can be as effective as the MX is while being so light and flexible.

 

Awesome hood btw. Easily fits over a helmet with no binding.

Buy your normal size and you'll have pleanty of room.

 

Not used the Patagonia but suspect it would be good as well.

 

and in use on a cold snowy day..

 

[dbb]

I think you should go with the jacket that fits you the best. For what it is worth, I have the ascensionist and love it for cold alpine rock, ice and x/c skiing. It seems to have a "harder" face (better wind protection) than my older schoeller garments.

[zeroforhire]

I have both and love both.

 

The ascensionist is more of a shell... very minimalist. The gamma mx has a light fleece backing to it, so it is a little heavier. I also love the chest pockets on the gamma, they come in handy.

 

If you are looking for something super light and breathable, you can't go wrong with the patagonia. Just realize that if you want any sort of warmth, you will have to layer under it.

 

Both jackets are great... you really can't go wrong with either, if they fit well enough.

[Dane]

An after thought. The MX is warm enough that I don't use it in summer. I will typically use a much lighter shell over the same lwt base layers I'd use with the MX in winter. Silly retail price though. Find them on sale or ebay.

 

The MX is stretchy though and a good enough wind shell to use alone as the outer shell on the icefields in mid winter.

 

Sounds like the Patagonia is a nice lwt piece worth checking out.

[olyclimber]

Damn Dane, why do you have to refer to them as "pieces"? thats what people selling arcteryx on craigslist like to call a jacket

 

i agree with you though...the MX is too warm for me for summer use.

[Dane]

"Glass of Merlo, sir?" "Next the ladies will be showing some rather nice pieces of the fall collection."

[G-spotter]

Whatever you do, don't buy the black Gamma MX. You will look like a shadow in photos, and a year later you'll be buying a brighter coloured one and selling your black one.

[olyclimber]

wow...you sound just like pax. he buys all his jackets according how he will look posing in summit shots.