[TR] Dragon Tail Peak - Serpentine Arete 8/22 8/26/2009

[spotly]

Thanks. Good to know about bowl and rain since I've considered snagging a bivy ledge low down on the first day. It certainly won't be there now

[justinp]

Dave: My New Hero...

Mine to! Thanks Dave…

[112]

I was climbing 2 days after we returned, no stitches. Not really that big of a deal.

 

I hope you all enjoyed the story though...

[Buckaroo]

Can you post a gear list? And what kind of shoes on approach and climb? Crampons, axe?

[LostCamKenny]

Anything that involves pain, suffering, complaining, or general epic behavior always makes for a great read... so long as the subjects all live

[ivan]

Thanks. Good to know about bowl and rain since I've considered snagging a bivy ledge low down on the first day. It certainly won't be there now

best bivy low down, if you're so inclined, would be the fatty ledge on the arete itself, right at the base of the crux pitch - protected from stonefall and plenty of space to pimp

 

for buck: the lighter approach shoes the better, comfy rock climbing shoes (could do the whole thing in boots), cams to 3 inches, probably doubles in the .5-#2 range, coupla nuts (the crux is smallish nuts), no axe, no crampons (use a rock to get on route and do the raps off the summit to the flat glacier)

[Buckaroo]

Wonder how much snow this peak got this weekend? And what are the chances of it melting out by the 18th Sept?

 

Could look at the Tumwater weather station but that's lower down.

 

Imagine it would up the seriousness of the route if the upper half was covered in powder snow.

[ivan]

barring a lot more snow in the 10 days, i'm sure it'd be fine