a lot of questions about climbing in Cascades

[bitin]

Folks,

 

I'll be climbing in Cascades in three weeks and I've never been there before. I have a bunch of questions concerning approaches, routes, access issues. Advice would be very very appreciated.

I am an experienced mountaineer and rock climber.

 

We are considering the following routes:

Sleuss Mtn, Northeast Buttress

Bear Mtn, North Buttress

Lexington Tower East Face

Forbidden Peak, East Ridge Direct

Mt Stuart North Ridge

Dragontail Peak and Colchuk Rock

 

a. We'll try to do the routes in one day - no multiple day logging, so we have to move light. Do we really need crampons/ice axes/heavy boots on? Is it snow or ice? Is it usually frozen at night or is temperature above freezing? Is it possible to use crampons over light approach shoes - I never tried it but it could be fun

 

b. Access issues: Colchuk Lake - it's completely booked. Is it possible to sneak in? How serious are rangers about enforcing regulations? Is it possible to hide a tent there, to have it up only at night? How bad are mosquitoes in early August?

 

c. Mt Stuart North Ridge. Seems like southern approach is easier but one has to go around the mountain all the way. How difficult/slow is northern approach/descent? Is it worth it?

 

d. Sleuss Mtn - looks like we have to descent to a different road. What's the best way to handle this situation? Is it possible to rent another car or bicycle locally in the vicinity?

 

Thanks a lot!!!

 

Boris.

[JoshK]

a. It depends on which of these routes. Some of them cross snow/ice and others you may well not. As for overnight freezing, it totally depends on elevation, aspect and temperature. You may well wake up to morning mushy snow, or find yourself cursing at the bulletproof hard frozen snow. Lightweight aluminum crampons and a light axe are a popular choice. Many people wear crampons over approach shoes. Of course you won't have the same control, but it's often a viable option. All of the climbs you mentioned are reasonable in a day, with the exception of Bear Mountain. I can all but guarantee trying that in a day will result in an epic for many people, let alone w/o experience in the Cascades. It's a remote peak in a rugged area.

 

b. Sure it's possible, but I would hate to recommend trying to avoid the man and have somebody get busted. The good news is Colchuck Lake is a really easy approach, so if you are forced to walk in from the car it shouldn't screw up your plans too much.

 

c. I prefer the northern approach/descent. The Sherpa glacier is generally an easy descent, though it can freeze and require downclimbing in crampons some times. The southern descent down Cascadian is pretty awful. 4000 feet of scree surfing nastiness!

 

d. I haven't climbed Slesse myself but its decent is famously hated. I know lots of people suffer through the long walk back on the road. I don't know the road quality so I couldn't comment on it's "bikability"

 

Hopefully the weather will cooperate and you can have a great time climbing througout the Cascades. Those are some really nice climbs you have picked out.

[t_rutl]

a. crampons and axes are your call. most routes that cross snow slopes can be done without the 'pons but it can be a gamble where you may wish you really had them. CAMP and several others make a lightweight aluminium crampon that may be worth investing in. if you are very confident in your self arresting abilities with a trekking pole you can get away w/o an axe but it would have to be a personal choice...i would reccomend one tho...if even an ultra-light version (CAMP Corsica, ect). August's freezing level can hover around 8-9 thousand feet or shoot to 14 thousand. "generally" speaking you'll have a crust but not ice under 10k but that could change at a moments notice. as far as boots go...if ya got a stiff enough sole you could pull off crampons. Five Ten makes their Exum Guide Shoe which is money for what you're talking about.

 

b. quite serious. would be a long day but you could hit Colchuck and Dragontail in one push...prob 12-14+ hrs??? mosquitos could be bad enough to eat you alive so come prepared!!

 

c. others could comment better

 

d. lots of good folks out here...maybe via this board or craigslist you could arrange a p/u?? plenty of places to rent cars

 

hope you enjoy your trip out!!!

[Pete_H]

All those routes are fairly reasonable in a day, except for Bear. Dragontail and CBR are long days though. If you climbed Bear in a day, especially coming in from out of town, you would be one bad ass motherfucker.

 

But why are you asking about bivy spots if you want to do the routes in a day?

 

You definitly have a lot of the classics in your sights - have fun!

[G-spotter]

Good luck doing Bear in a day.

 

Slesse - Slesse Cr is gated by the army these days so you might find it hard to leave a bike in there unless you ride in and walk back out. Most people are coming down the Crossover Pass descent these days which gets you right back to your starting point.

[bitin]

Thanks a bunch! Lots of good advice.

 

b. I was hoping to spend 2-3 days there, to do Dragontail and Colchuk routes. Stupid rules. How difficult is it to get walk-in permit midweek?

 

c. Do you think, Sherpa will still be covered ok in the beginning of August? The guidebook says that it sorta melts and becomes tricky.

It would be much more convenient, of course, we could combine it with Colchuk Lake stuff and sleep over...

 

Enjoy your climbing!

[bitin]

Thanks a bunch for good advice!

[Bug]

Thanks a bunch! Lots of good advice.

 

b. I was hoping to spend 2-3 days there, to do Dragontail and Colchuk routes. Stupid rules. How difficult is it to get walk-in permit midweek?

Get to the ranger station in Leavenworth by 7:45AM for the lottery and you have a good chance of getting a spot.

c. Do you think, Sherpa will still be covered ok in the beginning of August? The guidebook says that it sorta melts and becomes tricky.

It is looking pretty good this year.

It would be much more convenient, of course, we could combine it with Colchuk Lake stuff and sleep over...

I recommend this style for this spot. Many do it in a day but why not spend some time at a stellar location soaking up the views?

[lunger]

b. midweek, several times, i've had 100% luck getting permits via the lottery at the Leavenworth ranger station when it opens.

 

c. you will want crampons and axe for Sherpa descent that time of year. as indicated above, might have to rap a considerable 'schrund.

[AlpineK]

Another descent for the N ridge of Stuart is down the west ridge. 1 or 2 short raps at the top then scrambling. We did that once. It worked pretty well. The descent from the col to the base of the N ridge isn't too bad crampon free.

[bitin]

Josh,

 

how is Sherpa glacier by beginning of August? I just can't get it: it's 95F in Leavenworth, so it's 75-80F at the glacier. Does it not melt/crack all over the place? How bad is falling ice/rock situation in the afternoon? How steep is it? It does look very tempting to use it for a descent route but what kind of shape is it in?

 

Thanks a lot!

Boris.