Guest Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Just make an expedition little man. Go and do long traverses of ridelines and peak enchainments instead of these one day extravaganzas. Get multiple driving partners and offer to lead as much as possible. You should be able to find more willing partners with those on your side Cache gear in the backcountry... Or even vivy at Index or some other area for a week.. You are only limiting yourself Highclimb. If I was you I would climb every peak I could before I was tortured with the realities of work and the dreadful but unavoidable real life. Ride your bike to the mountains or something. [This message has been edited by OfficeSpace (edited 07-30-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Maybe there is genetic linkage to being a fucking dickhead?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 quote: Originally posted by jon: Maybe there is genetic linkage to being a fucking dickhead?! Who are we talking about here? Nevermind Jon it must be me. Nice call me a dickhead when I try to give ideas and advice to the young lad. Who is the dickhead flying off the handle when talking about someone you have never met? Must be nice to have your group of cronies that are loyalists to your site all get in their click and try to keep people like me away from your site. [This message has been edited by OfficeSpace (edited 07-30-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Also, maybe mom and dad don't want young Aidan doing big trips with strange guys he met on the internet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Gym Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yossarian Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 highclimb (if you are really 14), You really should respect your elders and listen to OfficeSpace. He seems to know what's best. Just take a look at his background. Here is a guy who has posted 32 times and has yet to say anything remotely intelligent. He has a very difficult time making a post without needlessly insulting somebody. He seems to know how you can rearrange your life so you can climb more. Pretty amazing considering he has never met you. He takes a camera into the mountains not to take a picture at the summit (ever visit one???), but to photograph other climbers who may knock rocks down on him. Yes, highclimb, OfficeSpace would make a great role model for you. Congratulations on loosing your cherry this weekend! I remember my first lead fall. I wanted my first time to be "special", but instead I peeled off a shitty 5.9 at exit 38. Even got a rope rash from the experience. Reminds me of another experience... but alas, I digress. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Yossarian, I laugh at the way you count my number of posts or examine everything I say here as if it is some sort of exam to endure before people get respected here. You are the one that is full of it. I cannot believe it! If you loafers were as hard as you talk you would all be in the latest climbing mag. Where were you Yossarian? Didn't think so either. It is as true as my old partner in Cali said "The guys from Washington talk a lot of shit but climb like idiots". You can climb 5.11+ offwidths in Yosemite and would not be recognized for anything. Here, some of you guys rant about some multi pitch 5.8 alpine route as if you climbed the Eiger! One cannot give simple ideas and advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 33! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 quote: Originally posted by OfficeSpace: I laugh at the way you count my number of posts I laugh that you think he would waste his time counting your posts. Try checking profiles... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Bold talk from someone who FAILED on Stuart this past weekend OrificeSpray... what have you been smoking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 quote: Originally posted by OfficeSpace: Yossarian, If you loafers were as hard as you talk you would all be in the latest climbing mag. Here, some of you guys rant about some multi pitch 5.8 alpine route as if you climbed the Eiger! Uhhh, hey man, I was in the latest climbing mag, Aug issue of R&I as an author....does that make me hard? NOT EVEN CLOSE! In fact, it makes me a profiteer from our noble pastime, only one step above the companies trying to convince you that you need to spend more money on the newest climbing fasionwear. I wrote it for 4 reasons: 1. I needed some money 2. I wanted to have a national publication on my doctoral school application resume. 3. The editor asked me to write it. 4. I needed the money. And what the hell do grades have to do with anything? Probably half of my 20 favorite climbs are long rock routes that go at 5.8 Pingora in the Winds...5.8 and fabulous, Complete Exum Ridge...5.7 and the most outstanding 5.7 route I've climbed, Nutcracker...sweet and interesting at 5.8, Snake Dike...fun and runout with only one stretch of 5.7, The Mummy in Linville Gorge..mellow 5.5 with great position. Skyline Traverse-Seneca 5.3...amazing exposure. All are among the most memorable climbs I've done, and I've done a fair mix of things around the US. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yossarian Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Dear OfficeSpace, I think you were mistook the intentions of my post. I did not want to imply that I am some snafu-eatn' hardman, nor do I come to this site to get recognized. In fact, I don't know what sort of recognition you can get from a bunch on unknown strangers with made-up usernames. Your "advice" is arrogant in nature and I think highclimb can do just fine on his own without your wisdom. No one here is ranting about being king of the world because they climbed a 5.8 alpine. Lambone and others are giving details about their weekend. In fact, I think you also contributed some details about your approach Yes, OfficeSpace, you mistook the intentions of my post. I merely wanted to point out that you are an asshole. I hope this clears things up for you. Best Regards, Yossarian [This message has been edited by Yossarian (edited 07-30-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 The North Face of the Eiger - 1938 Route IS an alpine 5.8!!! OOps right back atcha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Anybody remember who said this, "The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Hey Aidan, Start talking to your folks now in preparation for next summer. Try to cut some deal with them where if you do such and such, they'll agree to let you go somewhere that you can just hang and climb all summer. Just hold up your end of the bargain. I'm sure you could find all sorts of folks who would talk with your folks to reassure them. Let them know that climbing is really your passion, and your biggest dream at the moment is to spend a summer in Squamish, Yosemite, wherever, to stay in shape, learn about nature, and not sit around rotting on the couch in the AC all summer. Use those words...dreams, learning, maybe even go so far as to draw up some kind of learning plan...edible plants, wildlife of the sierra, geology, some history of the area. A whole season in an area gives you plenty of downtime, you need to rest even if you're just climbing mellow stuff. That will give you plenty of time to take pictures and make a plant log, visit the local interpretive centers, etc. I'd say you have a much better chance at pulling it off that way then by just trying to find a partner for the whole season or something. Big destination places like Yosemite are where the full-timers congregate because 1. Of course the climbing is phenomenal, but 2. Partners are easy to come by. Parents are weird animals, but if you get your game plan together ahead of time, and have a well thought-out presentation for them (think of it as a business pitch) they might just buy it. Be professional, use a powerpoint presentation, posterboards with learning plan outline, whatever it takes. I'd certainly be willing to consult with you on the side, I've taught high-school level natural sciences and done extensive presentations/public speaking etc. I guarantee that if you blow them away with the maturity and professionalism of a presentation, they will give your pitch a much closer look...because they will see your growing maturity through your committment to your goals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 I think it was one of the then-best all around climbers in the world....(AL RIP)but it should have been Mark Twight and he should have said "The best climber in the world is the one who SUFFERS THE MOST!!!! (and swallows the most Extreme Alpine GU)" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Twight...the next level: So I said to myself, "A kick in the head is only food for thought! Kick me in the head again you big burly icefall, you cannot define me! I define the very essence of conciousness through my anguish!" Then we started racking up. Since Backes and I started going ultra-light I'd revised the strategy to a razor honed efficiency...if you can't do it with GU, shut up and get off my fucking mountain. We decided that clothes were superfluous, we just applied a liberal covering of GU to our bodies. No longer needing a pack, we simply strapped a titanium pot to our heads for a helmet and set off soloing with 60cm axes crafted from frozen GU. As the handles melt, we suck down the GU trickle and re-freeze them in the snow as necessary for proper grip characteristics. When we stop to brew up, we just scrape off a handful of GU and set a match to it, plop the helmet pot on top, brew and then hydrate. I am growing my hair long again so I can store more GU in it and retain a stylish doo throughout the climb. Harnesses aren't necessary as we don't use ropes. There's no stopping to eat, just take a lick of the nearest appendage and keep cranking. All you other gumbies stuck in the same old system are stagnant, adopt the GU light and sticky approach or be a poser like everyone else. When the climb is over, relish the agony of ripping all the hair from your body when you remove the remaining GU, it assures you that you are alive. Ideally though, there should only be a minute amount of GU left or you didn't plan properly. UNDERSTAND?!!??!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 My companions were Steve (the Great White Gu) Gu and Johnny Gu. We called the route "Fuck Em We Are All Gu-Eaters Anyways". On the Gu Bath pitch I felt like I was going to vomit up my Gu. She left me for Gu so I went soloing on a giant sweep of frozen Gu, listening to the Gu Pistols on my headphones.Then I took up competitive Gu-Eating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 ...but it was only a diversion from climbing. Ever since my good climbing companion Pierre GU-Bie died soloing on the Petit GU, I questioned my motives. An ever growing rage enveloped me and I returned to GU eating at the highest level, climbing the Petit GU solo with only two packs of GU as a tribute to Pierre.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Blister Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 It is becoming quite obvious that you all need my margarita recipe RIGHT NOW. Check it out. Search for "margarita." OfficeSpace: What will you pay me not to blow your cover??? Lambone: To answer your original question, try the N. Ridge of Forbidden. You'll like it. John (fka Mr. Good Time) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Herr Blister- from what I've heard about those 'ritas (and their after-effects), EVERYONE be warned.... Lambone- no hardman, just trying to minimize the spray and maximize climbing ejoyment for all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 ok well i need to clear somethings out. first of all my parents love me climbing theny have nothing agaisnt it they let me go one trip and such. THE BIG PROBLEM IS THAT I CANT DRIVE!!!!!!!!!!!! its horrible. if i could drive i would climbing, if it were raining i would be aiding at index or hiking. i sit here on days like this a hit myself because i could be out there right now. the idea of going to one spot and staying there for awhile is alittle unreasonable but very very tempting. i mean my parents love me climbing but they want me home sometimes. and also i have trips and stuff. Yosarrian, i lost it to Dogleg Crack 5.8+ on Alphabet Rock. i wanted to try something and when i went for the move my left leg poped off and i feel like 5 feet in total so it wasnt anything that bad but i was excited to learn that pro really works! hahaha. And Dru, my parents arnt worried about me meeting weird guys on this site because i have meet some cool guys. erik, dan, geordie, and that really weird dude i dont know if you guys have seen his posts, the CAPTIN Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Blister Posted July 31, 2001 Share Posted July 31, 2001 Aidan: My first lead fall was on the same route, but I fell 25 ft. as my belayer was, uh, not paying attention. But the pro held. As for meeting guys on this site, I caution you against spending time with the Captain. He is just out of rehab (something about indecent liberties with a minor), and I don't believe he is playing with a full deck, if you catch my drift. So, be careful. Your pal, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted July 31, 2001 Share Posted July 31, 2001 yeah i hear hes kinda nutso but yeah i havent meet a bad guy yet on this site. you included john. Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted July 31, 2001 Author Share Posted July 31, 2001 Jees, I go to work for the day and look at what this poor inicent trip report turns into. I love you guys... Aidan, lets go climbing sometime! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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