ivan Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 watchaya'll who've done it recommend - what can stay and what needs to go in terms of iron/hooks? i'm trying to make it w/ my poor-man's rack, which lacks triples - anything i should steal from the rich? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 Ivan - I'm a hack of an aid climber and did it sans iron, but relied heavily on small size Leeper cam hooks, maybe a medium or two. You will be fine with doubles, especially in the larger sizes. I think it is a route you will like. Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 I didnt bring a rack, I free-soloed it. So I can'r really tell you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 21, 2009 Author Share Posted June 21, 2009 also, as the nelson topo is pretty shy of details, is it possible to fix the first 3 pitches w/ 2 60 m ropes? what are the decent fixing options if not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiderman Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 It's been 9 or 10 years but this rack will get you there. Don't know anything about the fixed lines as we didn't fix.  Double set of cams to 3 inches Double set of nuts Double set of micro nuts Hooks Camhooks  I don't remember a lot about the route, but do remember all the aid ratings are very soft compared to Yosemite. A more realistic grade would be C2-C2+. You might want to have a couple of "just in case" pins along. But you really shouldn't need them. Go get it man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 the route goes clean and has been freeclimbed. Â don't pilfer the fixed gear as it is crucial for a free ascent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 is it possible to fix the first 3 pitches w/ 2 60 m ropes? Yes. You will have some fun roofs to jug over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 There are bolted anchors up to the top of p6. Beyond there you're on gear. Â If you want to preview the free pitches above M&M ledge, take a lap of the Barber Pole route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 also, as the nelson topo is pretty shy of details, is it possible to fix the first 3 pitches w/ 2 60 m ropes? what are the decent fixing options if not? Â There's a set of chain anchors 20 ft. to the left of the normal p3 anchor (bolted route between TRL and Liberty Crack) which you may be able to fix to the ground, bypassing the roof. It's possible to aid from there back right to TRL across some stacked blocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted June 22, 2009 Author Share Posted June 22, 2009 cool - good info - on fixing the lines, can you rig it so you don't have to pass a knot on the jug back up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.