ivan Posted June 14, 2009 Posted June 14, 2009 ...or getting the monkey off? in my eternal quest to make even the mundane magical, i neglected to bring my tagline to smiffistan w/ me y-day - undeterred, geoff and i set out to climb the west variation and the northwest passage of the monkey- we were able to hitch a ride down w/ a couple members of the horde that were gang-fucking the gorilla after we did our token free-route - we didn't end up going above the first pitch of the west face enroute to nw passage though as impending storm and the realization that our 60 meter rope wouldn't get us back down to the ground in 1 rap from there shook our assumptions about bailing out of the west face cave down the west face route. probably for the best as, after a quick run up spiderman, we got poured on during the walk out, which would have lent a certain desperation to a dubious rap session off the monkey. so, long question short: what are the various ways of bailing off the monkey w/ a single 60 m, both from the summit and from the w face cave? Quote
corvallisclimb Posted June 14, 2009 Posted June 14, 2009 you can rap the pioneer with 1 60 thats about it its a pain and its like 4 raps. you can rap the north face with 1 70, a 60 might work but i think its set for a 70. so what did you acctually climb on the monkey i cant fig it out haha . Quote
ivan Posted June 14, 2009 Author Posted June 14, 2009 we did the w face variation to the nose cave, then rapped off w/ some good ol'boys, then did the first pitch of the west face aid route - watched a guy solo nw passage above us while belaying geoff - he looked to be having a gay-old time so where does the first 30 meter rap off of the monkey's nose put you when rapping the pioneer route? Quote
Maine-iac Posted June 14, 2009 Posted June 14, 2009 Did the guy soloing look like a total bum with long blond hair? And probably wearing chacos. Quote
ivan Posted June 14, 2009 Author Posted June 14, 2009 well, from 300 feet away mostly i'd say he looked like an animated raisin Quote
corvallisclimb Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 eric- i was too to understand what you actually where climbin on. you have to rap to the nose cave, you basically rap pitch by pitch the pioneer. thats cool someone was solo on the passage. maine-iac- hahaha joel would only solo the pioneer. Quote
ivan Posted June 15, 2009 Author Posted June 15, 2009 tyler, did you mean you rap into the MOUTH cave? on rap from the usual anchors at the nose it didn't look to me that 30 meters would get you back to anything once below the mouth. Quote
billcoe Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 We once bailed off the NECK cave to SW face side. it was pitch dark No headlamps desperate ropes got stuck. this is a real, real long story best told over a campfire as it involves Great Blue Herons ice fishing on a frozen pond, partner abandonment, picking up cans for money, no sleeping bag in sub zero weather, broken down VW Bus and a carburetor "rebuild" and theft (and return of ) our climbing gear. Point is, a single rope 60 meter out of the neck (off the south side) rap gets you to the flat spot below the notch of the Pioneer route and you can get down from there. That's all I know for sure. Quote
ivan Posted June 15, 2009 Author Posted June 15, 2009 not certain i know what you mean by "neck cave" bill - you talking 'bout bonn street at the base of the bolt ladder? - can you show me a picture w/ circles n' arrows and a paragraph on the back explaining what it is? ...and actually tell your story...the preview was excellent...maybe even make a retro TR of it? dane's been doing such tomfoolery of late! met your turkish friend hidaugh (sp?) while belaying geoff on the west face aid route - seems like a cool dude - i got to work out my feeble knowledge of turkish history on him Quote
geoff Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 (edited) Monkey. Dude in cave on his first trip. Worked at Deschutes but caught drinking a PBR. Ivan working hard. West Face belay. Notice one of two bottle caps found here. I was able to pack them out. Why is my rope over there? Folks on the Leeper. Storm coming. Storm going. SERNE anchor for Kenny. Crag rat left at home this time. Here are some shots of Tuesday's outing. The Choss Factory did not disappoint. One bold climber remarked that climbing here was like a failed suicide attempt. Mr. Denton on Doomsday got some action. MDOD is just off Scorpian Ledge to the left. Here's its namesake. Jimmy's saw some action as well. It's off the right of Scorpian Ledge. Next thing you knew we had a Chongo Line going up Rumba Ridge. Here's Kyle on this 5 Star wonder of the NW. Rope wrangling at the hanging rap shared by four. Mike had enough. Edited June 18, 2009 by geoff Quote
billcoe Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 Good looking dog Geoff, looks smart, ...bet you have to feed him canned dog food to bribe him to stick with you. lol not certain i know what you mean by "neck cave" bill - you talking 'bout bonn street at the base of the bolt ladder? - can you show me a picture w/ circles n' arrows and a paragraph on the back explaining what it is? Talkin slow here for some folks:-) OK, Neck cave noted below. It's where the NECK is. Not mouth cave, that's where the MOUTH is under the nose there. It's the belay anchors right where the arrow points, so useful only in an emergency as you'll be leaving gear on the bolts if you are forced to rap it. Plus if you go straight down, before you get level with the notch you are way overhanging and must be bouncing in and out to stay in contact with the rock. Pretty dicey at night with no moon as you need to wrap the rope around your leg and claw your way east as you drop the direction of the arrows shaft to connect with the Pioneer route. Summiting would be easier unless you were injured or it was dark. PS, thanks for the compliment on the pre-written TR of olde. _________________________________________________________ Nice Jimmies TR too. 5 stars for Conga Line is after it's cleaned:-) 3 now, but it would of course be a negative number if a rock beaned you. Mike will be back, the scorpion stings have healing power. The "Cult of the Scorpion" begins. Quote
ivan Posted June 15, 2009 Author Posted June 15, 2009 cool - i call that the "west face cave" but neck works too i reckon Quote
billcoe Posted June 15, 2009 Posted June 15, 2009 turkish friend hidaugh Spelled Haydar. Yes, he is a real good guy, solid and safe. Crack climbing fool, he'll go to Trout any day you want BTW. Check your email on another subject. Quote
jfs1978 Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 ok thread drift here. sorry ivan but your thread reminded me... Just curious if anyone knows anything about the entire PR bolt ladder having draws hanging on it? Every bolt. Weird... If someone was working on freeing that face...I might expect four or five...not 18. We left 'em all hanging a couple days ago...despite the massive booty temptation. Just curious if anybody knows anything. Which one o' y'all's second had a little epic hissy fit and refused to follow? edit...heh, come to think of it, maybe Joel's got new tactics for beating his last time... Quote
JosephH Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 Looks like some of Adam's wire rig is still on the cave floor. They were pretty cool, too bad they didn't get preserved. Quote
ivan Posted June 16, 2009 Author Posted June 16, 2009 the 18 some odd quickdraws got bootied by the party immediately before us, 'fore we had a chance at 'em! joe, if you're refering to that slackline setup, it's still seeing plenty of use - rercently watched some total mutants playing on that and the slackline into the west face cave - i was tempted but a wee bit too adled at the time i feared Quote
JosephH Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 He used to have two beautifully crafted iron and oak rope 'benches' up there that looked like the chairs the shoe salespeople use. They had a grove in the heavy oak tops and differently length legs to fit the contours of the rock. Hopefully he still has pictures of them as they were quite the works of art. Quote
ivan Posted June 16, 2009 Author Posted June 16, 2009 holy shit, now that woulda been cool! the mouth cave pretty much sucks to sit in as is - wtf happened to them? Quote
JosephH Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 No idea, but they made for perfect start / end platforms similar to what you see in circus acts. The groove also really helped stabilize the wire / line. Quote
jfs1978 Posted June 16, 2009 Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) the 18 some odd quickdraws got bootied by the party immediately before us, 'fore we had a chance at 'em! heh, we were up the day before. I came close but would have felt too guilty bootying 18 draws off one pitch. I think I ended up with one old 'biner though...I'll consider it a booty tax... ah well. who had to leave all those behind though. Edited June 16, 2009 by jfs1978 Quote
corvallisclimb Posted June 17, 2009 Posted June 17, 2009 ok thread drift here. sorry ivan but your thread reminded me... Just curious if anyone knows anything about the entire PR bolt ladder having draws hanging on it? Every bolt. Weird... If someone was working on freeing that face...I might expect four or five...not 18. We left 'em all hanging a couple days ago...despite the massive booty temptation. Just curious if anybody knows anything. Which one o' y'all's second had a little epic hissy fit and refused to follow? edit...heh, come to think of it, maybe Joel's got new tactics for beating his last time... haha damn jonathan i wish i knew the story behind that! grosowsky = chisel master! Quote
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