Cutting the trad teeth

[ropegoat]

So I need to work on my trad climbing. I sport climb pretty well, but the trad game needs work. I'm in Portland, and thus far I haven't found a lot of low grade trad climbs that are much fun at Ozone and Broughtons. I'm sure I'm just missing some things- is there good easy trad at Carver? Bulo Point? Horsethief? I know there is some at Beacon, but it's still closed. I'm thinking anything within ~1-1.5 hours drive.

 

Thoughts are appreciated, flaming- not so much. Thanks!

[Peter_Puget]

I know it's a bit longer drive than you are loking for but Smith has a truckload of really good trad routes. Spiderman comes to mind but there are a ton of them. I climbed Spiderman but in the days of the first Thomas guide and still remember it as being a fun route.

[kevbone]

The lower gorge at Smith is the best trad climbing in the country.

[hemp22]

Well, what grades are you looking for? I think there are some good easy trad leads at each of the local areas (broughton, rocky, carver, ozone). They may be relatively short, and not as heavily travelled or "fun" as some of the popular sport climbs, but lots of opportunities to build up a strong "base" of gear climbs to get your comfort level up.

 

(but yes, if you want to learn on multi-pitch as well, then go to smith)

[bstach]

The lower gorge at Smith is the best trad climbing in the country. at Smith

 

Are you kidding?

 

No worries thought I fixed it for you. I would be curious to know why you think the trad climbing there is better than, say, Red Rocks or Yosemite.

[Bug]

Or Index or LW. Or Squamish. Or City of Rocks..................

[Frenchy]

Squamish is in Canader

[ivan]

The lower gorge at Smith is the best trad climbing in the country.

he said "low grade" and that describes hardly any lower gorge climbs, whihc are pretty much all .10s

 

ozone's has several 5.8ish trad climbs, though they are kinda-sorta scary, at least compared to bomber-granite

 

broughtons has several moderatish trad climbs on the north face, hangign garden and red wall crags

 

beacon has the easiest/best easy trad climbs - se corner, most of young warriors, lower dod's jam, free for all

 

but, as you say, the bottom line is there really isn't much easy shit in the pdx area - what can you do....learn to aid-climb!

[billcoe]

I haven't found a lot of low grade trad climbs that are much fun at Ozone and Broughtons.

 

Whats a "low grade" climb? I'm serious.

[el jefe]

broughton's would probably be your best bet for some local trad climbing, at least until beacon opens up. otherwise, i'd suggest making a trip to leavenworth. good rock and a scenic place, although admittedly a tough place to get oriented as the climbing is really scattered around.

 

seems like most of the stuff in the gorge at smith is 5.10 or harder, which i'm guessing is more difficult than the "low grade" stuff you are looking for.

[Le Piston]

Another spot you might consider is the Royal Columns/Tieton. I remember learning crack climbing and setting pro there. The rock is pretty sound and the routes are close to the road. The routes are one pitch, take pro well, and go from 5.2 on up.

[Maple Syrup]

Hope your teeth are gettin' sharp.

 

I was just flipping through the portland rock climbs book and came across the chemistry slab - it's got a couple of 5.4s, and a 5.5. Also, rooster rock is a fun location and it's pretty easy.

[TRbetaFlash]

Horsethief is kinda limited from what I've seen there. No multipitch fun either. If you're in Portland, just head to smiff and jump in on the regular gang-bang of the cinnamon slab area. You don't even need to bring chalk. There's plenty on the route already.