[TR] Mt. Hood - Leuthold's Couloir 5/28/2009

[The Cascade Kid]

Trip: Mt. Hood - Leuthold's Couloir

 

Date: 5/28/2009

 

Trip Report:

My team of two left timberline on skis at 12:10am on Thursday morning. We climbed up along the cat track in somewhat slushy conditions that turned crusty by the time that we reached the top of the track. We angled northwest up to the standard SS route along the rock band and then traversed West to Illumination saddle. Once the saddle was attained, a brief powow quickly determined to abort the mission. The reasons are these:

1. While traversing over to the saddle, we experienced a very close call with a massive falling rock. About as large as a lunch tray and 4-5 inches thick, it hauled ass down the snowslope in the dark missing us by about 20'. I was only alerted to its approach a few seconds before by a low hiss. Looking at its path on the way back down, it was only touching ground every 20' or so.

2. Our choice of the couloir route depended on conditions being cemented, but there was little evidence that the mountain had frozen up appreciably overnight.

3. Looking west from the saddle towards Yokum ridge there was plenty of evidence of lots of rockfall and snowmelt.

4. In a post-hoc ratification of our decision, while waiting for the sun to rise, we heard Lots of rockfall on either side (3am-5am)

 

We traversed back across to the main route once there was enough light to see rocks coming from above and dodge them, and then just opted to return to the car and head off to work.

 

I would strongly advise against travel on this or any nearby routes, as objective hazards are very high, and looking at the weather, ought to remain so or worsen.

 

Gear Notes:

Used: Skis + Skins

Unused:

2 pickets

1 axe each

30m rope

 

Wear a helmet!

 

Approach Notes:

Standard cat-track approach. It may have been safer to reach the saddle by first traversing west and then climbing, rather than traversing higher above.

[old codger]

Have suncups started to set up? I'm concerned that even if it started to freeze it might be pocked with suncups.

[Ptown_Climber1]

You probably made the right decision; we were faced with similar circumstances two weeks ago, the infamous 'ice fall' weekend on the mountain when they had the two rescues. Camping at the saddle we heard crap coming down all night; we actually witnessed two small slides, one off Yokum Ridge, and the other funneling down from our intended route (Reid Headwall). We switched plans also...I was mildly surprised to see a couple others head down there, going to Leuthold...I'm still curious if they made it, because it was downright gnarly. Some of the ice chunks coming down off Crater Rock were definitely widow-makers if I ever saw one.....that shit is serious...watch out.

[Frikadeller]

1. While traversing over to the saddle, we experienced a very close call with a massive falling rock. About as large as a lunch tray and 4-5 inches thick, it hauled ass down the snowslope in the dark missing us by about 20'. I was only alerted to its approach a few seconds before by a low hiss. Looking at its path on the way back down, it was only touching ground every 20' or so.

 

So was this on the zigzag glacier, or lower? I don't think I have ever seen rock fall that large while traversing from the palmer to I rock.

 

It's starting to sound like maybe hoodie is done tolerating people on the south side.

[justinp]

I was planning on doing the Couloir at some point in the next few days. Anyone else want to weigh in? I am beginning to think I am a month too late?

[lowebacker]

I was also going to do it this weekend with two others. However after this report and the warm temps this week and over the weekend we are thinking of doing the southside instead:( Hopefully that will be ok.

Edited May 29, 2009 by lowebacker

[billbob]

Funny that. We wait and wait for good weather and then it seems a bit too much of a good thing. Maybe we need more semi-crappy weather with consistent overcast to block the sun but not enough to snow?

[justinp]

We wait and wait for good weather and then it seems a bit too much of a good thing.

My objective is just to avoid being a human bowling pin

 

Speaking of that apparently there is a group for Corvallis head up the Couloir tonight.

Edited May 29, 2009 by justinp

[lowebacker]

FYI got this info from someone that attempted Leuthold's this morning:

 

The conditions were pretty bad. There was no freeze and we were sinking to our knees when we left the tent at 2AM (8,600 ft). The Reid glacier was really soft as well, but we made it successfully into the couloir. There is a runnel about 10 feet deep in the belly of the couloir, so it's obviously been funnelling a ton of debris. We got through the hourglass high on the left bank, then crossed to the right bank, but the snow was still really nasty. The possibility of getting hit by things in the couloir was really high, so we ended up traversing up and right and climbing through steep mixed terrain on Castle Crags. It was a pretty exciting climb, but we were only in Leuthold for a short distance. If it continues to be hot, I would skip Leuthold and maybe even Hood altogether. We descended at 7AM and were already postholing below the Hogsback. Hope this helps you out.

 

 

[The Cascade Kid]

So was this on the zigzag glacier, or lower? I don't think I have ever seen rock fall that large while traversing from the palmer to I rock.

 

I believe it was on Zigzag. Looking at the path once the sun came up, I believe it came from up in the crater.

Edited May 30, 2009 by The Cascade Kid

[The Cascade Kid]

FYI got this info from someone that attempted Leuthold's this morning:

 

Makes me feel better about my choice.

[ryland_moore]

Never second-guess your choice. If you don't feel comfortable, don't do it. The mountain and route will be there next season. I typically don't do Leuthold's after May 1st if that gives you any indication.

[slogon]

Any crevasses showing on the Reid? Seems if we get some lower freezing levels maybe whatever loose stuff is left will adhere to the mtn a little better (hoping).

[LostCamKenny]

Leuthold's is a shooting gallery this time of year - glad you made it back safely!