Exactly when should 2nd start disassembling anchor

[SplashClimber]

What are the guidelines for when the 2nd can start disassembling the anchor? Can this be done as soon as the leader calls "off belay", or must the 2nd wait until the leader calls "belay on"? I hope this makes sense, so ask for clarification if needed!

[mattp]

I frequently start taking the anchor apart as soon as the leader calls "off belay." I'll generally leave at least one solid piece in place until I'm on belay, though.

[davidk]

I wait for the "belay on" call from the leader - otherwise I don't know if I'm safe if I tear down my anchor. However, if I'm belaying from a really spacious ledge, I might break down the anchor as soon as I hear "off belay," but only if I'm comfortable with being unanchored given the situation at hand.

 

This is something to discuss with your leader, not just the peanut gallery here. Some people might have different sequences for when they yell off-belay in relation to when they build an anchor, and you and your partner should know this before the leader sets off.

[catbirdseat]

Some leaders will call off belay before they have even built an anchor. If you are climbing with such a person, I suggest you do not tear down the anchor until they have given the On Belay signal.

[SplashClimber]

Thank-you so much. Your answers really makes sense,and are very helpful.

[mattp]

I don't think it is very common for folks to call "off belay" before they are anchored unless they are being sloppy - most commonly when they are on some kind of "bomber" ledge where they feel that falling off is not possible.

 

The suggestions that you should discuss these kinds of issues with your partner are sound, though I rarely do actually go through such a "checklist" before climbing with a new partner.

[Sherri]

I'll start disassembling an anchor soon as leader calls off belay, long as it's a good ledge and not a semi-hanging type of situation. Also, leaving in at least one bomber piece as mentioned above until leader yells "on belay."

 

 

[catbirdseat]

I don't think it is very common for folks to call "off belay" before they are anchored unless they are being sloppy - most commonly when they are on some kind of "bomber" ledge where they feel that falling off is not possible.

 

I've seen it more than once on Tahquitz Rock with ledges I thought were less than bomber.

[billcoe]

What are the guidelines for when the 2nd can start disassembling the anchor? Can this be done as soon as the leader calls "off belay", or must the 2nd wait until the leader calls "belay on"? I hope this makes sense, so ask for clarification if needed!

 

On long routes where I know the leader has many good pieces in between us and where I know both of us won't fall, I'm pulling out 2 pieces and loosening my knot to the 3rd before dudes even stopped. Same situation with bolts and I'm unclipped from one and ready to fire.

 

Some of the assholes folks I climb with will just keep climbing past the next belay expecting me to be fired up and ready every time they do this. You can get a lot more pitches in.

 

On hard pitches or short routes or where I think my leader might fall, of course I don't do this.

[genepires]

the real thing to think about is what will happen to you if you slip at the belay. Your buddy may or may not be clipped into an anchor. So if you fall before you get the "on belay" call and without an anchor to be clipped to, you will either fall a distance equal to the slack of rope that you have (actually more but lets keep it simple) or you may pull your buddy off and both of you will go to the ground. Either way, it is not a good thing.

Given that you are asking this question, can I assume that you are new to this? Taking yourself off the belay (by dismantling any part of the belay anchor) before getting on a belay from above, is a very bad idea. Best to wait till you are belayed from above before taking your belay apart.

[mountainmandoug]

Generally I figure that the leader calling "off belay" means only that he or she is safe, weather with an anchor or a stance. When leading I sometimes call "off belay with only one good piece in and than commence to build the rest of the Belay anchor.

 

What I do as the second depends on many factors. If the pitch is a rope-stretcher and there is very little slack left I might take apart the whole belay anchor after the leader calls "off belay". Otherwise I take apart whatever I feel I can remove and still have a safe anchor to hang from. Belay anchors should be built to handle a factor 2 fall, but I don't need all that strength just to hang from. I will almost always take out one piece of a three piece anchor, sometimes to if I think one piece is really good (think a slung horn or the like).

 

When belaying the leader out at the beginning of a simul-block it is different still. There I am pretty much always at a good stance and I usually take the leader off belay when there is around 6' of slack left and disassemble the belay, hopefully before the leader moves 6'. The goal is to not have the leader have to stop.

 

 

[mike1]

We discuss communication signals and define them before we leave the ground so there is no confusion. "Off belay!" (in my circle) is your signal that the lead is safe and beginning to set up the belay station. It's up to you to decide how far you can break things down and still remain safely attached as each situation will be different.