kevbone Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 On Friday May 1st I was at the zone with friends. I watched martins dad lowering off on a single line cleaning the rock to the left of Route 66. He spend multiple days cleaning this, trundling....etc.... On one of those days, some other climbers talked to him a bit from the ground and saw what he was doing. I was at the zone today 5/11 and he was rapping into this new route to place a few bolts and low and behold someone has ganked his route and bolted the shit out of it already. You know who you are. What a crock and complete disrespect for those who came before you. If there was ever a need to chop..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 "doppleganger's dilema" would be an excellent name for this then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 chop the bolts and install new ones right next to 'em! That'll show the bastards! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 that is incredibly lame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 route bandits... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 This route is the last to go on this wall and not that obvious, so it would have to have been someone familar with the area. I feel anyone who was on the wall would have seen that it had been cleaned. Huge boulders had been kicked off and he had used a broom and a brush to clean it well. It would have been obvious to route setters that someone had been there before. route bandits is right..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 well, cleaner gets the naming rights more than anything, so something along the lines of "________'s a cumgargling cock-smoker" oughtha make the whole affair more enjoyable than otherwise? is the cleaner displeased w/ the spacing/placing of bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 finally, some good spray... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 Route setting is obviously at the root of this sort of thing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 That really sucks about that route, last time I was out there he (martins dad) had done pretty much everything but bolt it, he even had ticked the spots where the bolts should go. Route stealing is recockulious and just displays a lack of respect and understanding of tradition. However, it doesn't surprise me that some yahoo didn't follow the grail. What did you expect to happen when you put a gym on the side of the Columbia River and than give everyone the map to the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow????? You think this is some wack...just wait, its only going to get worse. -promise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 What is really sad is that we are not suprised. And why should it get worse? That is about as bad as it gets, not sure what would be worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 well, the snowmobilers might show up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 is the cleaner displeased w/ the spacing/placing of bolts? Irrelevant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 However, it doesn't surprise me that some yahoo didn't follow the grail. Problem is Brian. I don’t believe this individual (s) to be yahoo’s. They clearly know what they were doing (other than not following the “grail”).. What did you expect to happen when you put a gym on the side of the Columbia River and than give everyone the map to the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow????? I expect what all crags expect. Common courtesy. Respect those who came before you. Not liking ones route and bitching about it is one thing. But to steal a line that someone else worked multiple days on cleaning is utter bullshit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 is the cleaner displeased w/ the spacing/placing of bolts? Irrelevant certainly relevant - if they in fact went exactly where martins dad wanted them, are of the exact same type/quality, and were placed properly, then theoritically there's no real harm done (unless he just really wanted the joy of drilling them himself) not defending it, mind you, and the offender should certainly have a cat-scan in order to understand his particuliar species of mania, just saying it's not like he raped a kitten or crapped on the statue of liberty's sandals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 just out of curiosity, would anybody be opposed to me casting the first stone... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 with all these infernal jesus-haters around?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 lets fill the fucker up with goo packets and take turns clobbering him with ice-axes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 hell, i could sub out all my sport routes to this joker. i think we should call him "the mexican". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 Route setting is obviously at the root of this sort of thing... How so? Route stealing is not just for sport climbing. You would outraged if you spent all that time cleaning Lost warriors just to find someone (who knew you were cleaning it) else had climbed it before you. Or added bolts you would not have added. Point is.....it is a disrespect for our fellow climbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 When the grid lights up and everyone is enjoying the show, does it really matter who screwed in the bulbs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eldiente Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 So do we have a name? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 You would outraged if you spent all that time cleaning Lost warriors just to find someone (who knew you were cleaning it) else had climbed it before you. Or added bolts you would not have added. The FA of LW was ground up - no pre-flight inspection, cleaning, hanging or other mechanics - and more the sort of route folks avoid than climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raindawg Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 I expect what all crags expect. Common courtesy. Common courtesy? You guys don't even respect the rock. Rap, scrub and drill (and maybe siege-rehearse the "route" into submission)...you think that's respectful? Y'all be bitchin' 'bout the best way to rape the vertical environment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 hey, at least he didn't have to spend his $$$ on bolts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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