Wanted: Opinions on Rainer this wknd???

[camdaman]

My partner and I were considering climbing Rainer this weekend due to good weather window but have since bailed on the idea due to avy conditions. I haven't done it myself, though have 2+ years of alpine experience in the Cascades. Wondering if anyone can lend some wisdom/opinions on the avy danger up there (particularly the DC route), ways to mitigate it (if at all) given the recent new snow, and whether or not this was a "good decision."

Good or not, I think we've already made our decision on this one, but it's good to know what others are thinking/planning for future reference.

Cheers.

Edited May 8, 2009 by camdaman

[TMO]

He who runs away lives to fight another day... words to live by! You don't get as much climbing done though! I think you made a good call, but it's hard to say what the wind has done with the new snow unless you go up and check it out. I have found it best for me to wait until the conditions are perfect, then blast it, almost guarantees success. I have been turned around too many times in the past to do it any differently.

 

Edited May 8, 2009 by TMO

[Lisa_D]

With 2-4 feet of new/recent snow likely in the southern cascades, the high winds on Rainier (and thus wind loading), and the prevalence of 30-38 degree slopes along your climbing route (most likely for slab avalanches), I'd say you made a good call.

[shaoleung]

The beauty of Rainier as a climbing objective is that you can easily do it another weekend. Play safe.

[skjos]

Good call.

 

We canceled our plans for Little Tahoma via Paradise this weekend due to recent avy conditions. We will probably just wait until the White River road opens (5/20) and tackle it at that time.

 

Maybe Shuksan next weekend after everything (hopefully) settles.

[camdaman]

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

What about a night ascent with 6 a.m. topout, down-before-noon type of thing. Is that an idea worth considering under these conditions?

[TMO]

You should do that even in good conditions!

[Lisa_D]

I'm more of a "the mountain will always be there" person. I put off my Shuksan/Sulphide glacier plans due to avy conditions. Go cragging instead!

[AlpineK]

I could have climbed Mt. Saint Helens to the old summit back a long time ago. I figured, "the mountain will always be there," so I climbed something else.

 

Eventually I climbed Saint Helens, but it wasn't quite what I had originally imagined.

[Lisa_D]

ha, good point! Hopefully Rainier remains intact..

[DPS]

I cancelled my plans for Rainier based on the potential slog fest and avy danger.

[mountainmatt]

What about a night ascent with 6 a.m. topout, down-before-noon type of thing. Is that an idea worth considering under these conditions?

 

Depends on how well you and your partner can swim

 

Under these conditions you should just go cragging.

 

 

[camdaman]

Advice taken. Thanks all for the affirmation.

[Mtguide]

NWAC forecast indicates high avy danger throughout the weekend, with the hazard of a rising temperature gradient(not necessarily the temperature itself rising, but the warmer air ascending the mountain)complicating what would otherwise be a normal period of consolidation. 2 to 4 feet of new snow at higher elevations makes this a pretty chancy scenario. You could find your nighttime summit dash deteriorating into a pretty desperate postholing nightmare.

 

Ever have one of those dreams where you're trying to run but your legs won't move? Welcome to Rainier under these conditions, a real-life horror flick. You could find yourself trying to race the time and temperature, falling further behind by the minute, similar to stumbling into a minefield where the very next step could end your life.

 

Look at a copy of "On Snow and Rock" by Gaston Rebuffat, turn to p.23 and read the photo caption which begins,"At a moment like this there is no longer any charm in this enchanted world, no more poetry in this poetic universe." The last line says,"Fear is an ugly thing, but temerity may be disastrous." You might want to look up the definition of "temerity" in the dictionary if you don't already know it.

 

You have definitely made a wise call so far; please don't mess it up, and above all, never get down on yourself for exercising reasonable caution, or even erring on the side of caution. Sometimes these calls can be difficult, but I think this time the NWAC has covered our asses on that point. Among the dozen good friends of mine who've died in the mountains, were several who would virtually never turn back, no matter what, and others who thought they could "push the mountain" or force the conditions.

 

 

[mountainsloth]

rainier just barely went this weekend. post-holing by a Saturday group to 13,100 gave my team a chance to summit on sunday... barely. weather moved in around noon and almost 2,00 feet of post-holing into crevasses got us to the summit. avy conditions were definitely questionable, but nothing blew on the ingraham direct route. we were chased down the mountain by windy and snowy weather.

[JayB]

"Look at a copy of "On Snow and Rock" by Gaston Rebuffat, turn to p.23 and read the photo caption which begins,"At a moment like this there is no longer any charm in this enchanted world, no more poetry in this poetic universe." The last line says,"Fear is an ugly thing, but temerity may be disastrous."

 

Great passage - thanks for sharing that.