Squamish Grand Wall - Upper Black Dyke

[Jeremy_Frimer]

In Squamish, a number of climbs (e.g., The Grand Wall, Europa, Millenium Falcon) reach Bellygood Ledge, two-thirds the way up the Grand Wall proper. Anticlimactically, most people walk off from there, as the wall above is steep and lacking a suitable route... until now.

 

see videos and photos, and download a route topo

 

Over the winter of 2008-2009, Kelly Franz, Seth Adams, Katy Holm, Jacqui Hudson, and I (Jeremy Frimer) retro-ed the Upper Black Dyke. Next time you get to Bellygood, you're not done yet. The summit rim lies within reach!

 

Sean Easton had spearheaded retro work on the route in 1998. Our retro updated his work by (a) releasing loose rock (including about 20 blocks the size of a small fridge) on pitches 1, 3, and 4; (b) cleaning and bolting the dyke itself on pitch 2. Sean's pitch 2 leaves the dyke out right and climbs an unlikely set of thin features for a classic, albeit runout 5.10c pitch. The on-dyke pitch 2 is juggy and about 5.9 with well-protected cruxes; and © cleaning up Bellygood Ledge (cutting branches, tossing loose rock throughout) to avoid future accidents from falling rock.

 

The climbing on the dyke is unusual for Squamish in several ways.

- First, it's juggy. Given that the rock is basalt and not granite, it has very different features: namely jugs everywhere.

- Second, it has short, well-protected cruxes with somewhat run-out rambling (usually in the 5.6 range) in between.

- Third, while we did our best to remove all the loose rock, the nature of the stone means that some loose rock is a permanent feature of the route. Given that Exasperator is directly below, climbers are asked to climb with caution.

 

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Upper Black Dyke - 4p, 5.10b (all grades require reconfirmation). Bring a single set of cams, and draws.

 

From Bellygood Ledge, find the dyke.

 

p1. Climb up then left to a steepening wall. Gain the top of the wall to find a bolted belay on the right (35m, 6 bolts, 5.10a/b?)

 

p2. Move up the right edge of the dyke. At the second bolt, the route diverges. For the standard route, move up and left to stay on the dyke (45m, 9 bolts, 5.9?). For the bold, 5.10c variation, launch right onto a quartzite dyke. Belay (bolts) below a roof, to the right of the dyke.

 

p3. Pull over the roof (crux) to gain a ledge. Ramble up and left to skirt an overlap, then wander back right to skirt another. Gain a belay ledge with a bolted belay below a tree on the left. (40m, 7 bolts, 5.10b?)

 

p4. Ramble up the left side of the dyke before pulling through a tricky overlap (crux) just before gaining the summit rim. (30m, 5 bolts, 5.10b?)

 

The climbing on P1 and P2 is a bit gritty at the moment. But a little rain and wind should wash away all the dust.

 

see videos and photos, and download a route topo

 

[stinkyclimber]

"The world doesn't need two more boulderers, anyway." A quote in the video right after trundling a large stump down to the base of Grand. Nice!!

 

Great contribution to the chief, Jer!

[marc_leclerc]

Nice Work.... I'll finish up this after doing the Grand...

[tlinn]

Great work! Sounds like it will be a really nice addition and a great way to top out a lot of climbs.

[eldiente]

Thanks for cleaning this route.

[Ishmael]

great work. I liked the video.

Edited May 2, 2009 by Ishmael

[Sol]

You guys kick ass!

 

I'm friends with the guy who broke both his ankles up there a few years back when both his handholds broke, he'll be stoked to hear about this.

 

[lunger]

Nice work!

 

I remember finishing up that thing after the Grand years ago, and thinking 'twas kinda spicy for a bolt-clipping finish--thanks for removing some of the abundant loose rock.

 

Particularly memorable was during that harder stretch of relatively steep face climbing well above a bolt on p. 2, happened upon 2 falcons perched, just blinking at me. (There were no falcons expected at the time, no closure, etc.) The only way to go was between them, but they peeled off when i drew within 5 feet of 'em. Pretty cool but a bit concerning--if they had wanted to mess with me, would've been a long ride...

[tanstaafl]

awesome. and big congrats to Katy for redpointing Zombie Roof!

[olyclimber]

 

The climbing on P1 and P2 is a bit gritty at the moment. But a little rain and wind should wash away all the dust.

 

 

I'm betting that this work will result in the kind of traffic that will help clean that up as well!

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Nice, great winter project, thanks!